My 335i Project(Guy who drove with a M30 in his trunk)

[LagunaSecaBlue]

it IS doable, but a major PITA. You have to jack up the front of the engine in order to angle the rear down and make getting the transmission on easier. IIRC it took me and a friend 2-3 hours of wrestling but we got it.

Well I congratulate you on that accomplishment, It was PITA. Engine hoist for me.

[CorvallisBMW]

Good luck! Let us know how the hoist method goes, I always thought the engine/trans assembly would be too long to get in as 1 piece.

[torreira]

sub'd

[Jalves619]

I like were this is headed. Hope to see it at one of the AZE30 meets when I finally get my e30 down to Phoenix for one of them.

[AwakenNoMore]

first time seeing this thread. That pic of the car rolling down the road with the M30 "in" the trunk is priceless. I know that crushed car you pulled the engine/trans from. It was at Pick-a-part Chandler before they closed it.

[Bearmw]

I think dropping the engine and subframe from the bottom is the easiest way. I dropped the m30 engine in from the top once but never again. I now will drop an m20 from the bottom too.

[LagunaSecaBlue]

Well, the project is on hold. The CV Axles I bought fell apart when going to grease the cages. I hope RockAuto will take them back or get warranty replacement through SurTrack.

[LagunaSecaBlue]

first time seeing this thread. That pic of the car rolling down the road with the M30 "in" the trunk is priceless. I know that crushed car you pulled the engine/trans from. It was at Pick-a-part Chandler before they closed it.

Yeah it was PnP Chandler, LKQ bought it out. Still have all of the PnP cars.

[LagunaSecaBlue]

I like were this is headed. Hope to see it at one of the AZE30 meets when I finally get my e30 down to Phoenix for one of them.

We will be doing a couple cruises up north, you could join us then!

[LagunaSecaBlue]

I am away for a few weeks, will be finishing this bad boy when I return. Axles have been shipped back, will be getting remans locally so if I have issues I can return them easily.

[LagunaSecaBlue]

It's been a while. I got a lot of stuff to tell you all about.

This happened...


I got back from my trip. Finish the swap. Go on shakedown, noticed the Temperature Gauge bouncing High To Normal. Stop check everything, all is good. Get home, not think to check the oil. Check it next day for S&Gs and find the milkshake. The head is cracked front to back under the intake rocker guide so I am told its a uncommon crack so its probably just a bad casting.

Whats next?

TURBO.

I really wasnt satisfied with the feel of a M30 with a 3.25LSD, my M20 with 3.73LSD was more fun but I felt its potential.

My new goal is a beautifully restored E30 with balanced power as a Daily Driver and Weekend Canyon Carver/Car Show Whore.

Whats in the books...
First and foremost Reliability
Turbo, shooting for 300-350WHP
High CFM Pusher and 324td Fan Clutch
A/C Refresh
17" Motegi M119s wrapped in some quality Extreme Summers.
Wilwood Big Brake Kit
E36 Rack Swap
Suspension Refresh with Shocks/Springs/Bushings
Euro Exterior Bits all around and a E28 or Alpina Spoiler
Interior still debating
Sealed Enclosure Luke Box and Dynamat the interior
Weight reduction to make up for box(Spare Tire Hole Delete, Sound deadening)

[Jb325is]

Did you spend much time bleeding the coolant when you finished the swap? Sounds like you had an air pocket

[george graves]

My trick to manually getting the air out of a M30 swap is two things. Go on a hard run, let it warm up. Then add cold water slowly (well, water from a hose) - that will collapse steam pockets.

The other part is to "burp" the top hoses. Squeeze them like your chocking the chicken or something. You'll work the air bubble out in about 1-2 mins.

Don't just think that you can open the blead screw, and it will do it on it's own.

[CorvallisBMW]

-High CFM Pusher and 324td Fan Clutch
-A/C Refresh
-17" Motegi M119s wrapped in some quality Extreme Summers.
-Wilwood Big Brake Kit
-E36 Rack Swap
-Suspension Refresh with Shocks/Springs/Bushings
-Sealed Enclosure Luke Box and Dynamat the interior

Shit man, that sucks! I'm sorry to hear. But it sounds like bigger and better things are on the way :)

-Go with the curved-blade SPal 16" pusher. Best on the market.
-HMU if you need R12
-Continental ExtremeContact DW, awesome tire
-Good call, don't buy the UUC kit
-You'll love this!
-Ground Control all the way. With the extra power I'd recommend strut braces and maybe even a x-brace. Chassis stiffness is always good.
-Excellent!

My trick to manually getting the air out of a M30 swap is two things. Go on a hard run, let it warm up. Then add cold water slowly (well, water from a hose) - that will collapse steam pockets.

The other part is to "burp" the top hoses. Squeeze them like your chocking the chicken or something. You'll work the air bubble out in about 1-2 mins.

Don't just think that you can open the blead screw, and it will do it on it's own.

Truth.

[LagunaSecaBlue]

Starting to get a better idea on a parts list...

ARP Studs, MLS Gasket, Stage 1 Clutch Kit from TCD
TCD Stage 1 Kit with No tuning(To use as a baseline until I learn more about FI)
MSIII
Parallel Flow Condensor
Z3 Rack(Unless I get from Feedback that it is too twitchy for DD)
HIDs from DDM Tuning
Euro Exterior Bits all around
EconoBoost Gauge, Tuner Pod with VDOs
Poly Bushings all around
Street Shocks and Springs

Does anyone know for sure if the 324td Fan Clutch will fit using Garagistics Engine Mounting Arms?
Edit:Ill just use the 10" infront of the alternator like CorvallisBMW has detailed in his Cooling M30 Thread.