My euro 320i/B6 3.5 Alpina Tribute ( Now with turbo power)

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Went to bleed cooling system and drive it for first time but that did not happen... Started bleeding cooling system and once the car hit operating temp it immediately started to overheat. It was pumping coolant out of the expansion tank and continued to over heat every time after, I didn't let it get hot though I shut her down the second the needle got pass center. Also my fan that I wired in isnt kicking on at temp, I'm wondering if my thermostat isn't working. I cant continue to try and bleed the cooling system if it just overheats so i cant try and work any more air out until it rest at operating temp. What i don't get is all this stuff worked perfectly before I rebuilt motor. My car is also bogging down if i tap the throttle.

[Anthony B]

I know its a squeeze in a bay with an m30 but can you feel the radiator & see if it has cold spots? Bleeding the m30 is a pita of a job

I ran into a similar issue with my gf m40 car after we did the headgasket & found the rad to be clogged up with head gasket repair treatment gunk.

[kronus]

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=498844#p498844

[ThatOneEuroE30]

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=498844#p498844

I pulled that hose off but did not do a blow hose. I will do that thank you. After that It will be figuring out why it's bogging and why the fan isn't kicking on. Maybe a pocket of air is keeping switch from getting to temp.


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[ThatOneEuroE30]

I know its a squeeze in a bay with an m30 but can you feel the radiator & see if it has cold spots? Bleeding the m30 is a pita of a job

I ran into a similar issue with my gf m40 car after we did the headgasket & found the rad to be clogged up with head gasket repair treatment gunk.

Yea rad is functioning properly.


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[ThatOneEuroE30]

So haven't touched this car in a while do to buying my the slick top and fixing it sorta but thats a story for another day. Anyways I went out to the car and did the bleeding technique kronus provided me. Seems to have gotten a lot of air out hopefully it works think i may get a new temp switch for fan just cause I'm not sure this one works. It was new in box but idk how many years old cause it came with my car when i bought it 2-3 years ago. Im also pretty my idle issue is do to the cam letting out cylinder pressure on low throttle input causing the engine to bog and want to die. So I found a mark d chip to help fix that. Once i get a wide band on i can see if i would benefit from some pink tops. I also gave it a bath for the first time and no leaks!!!

[efficient]

That front end looks real clean and mean

[ThatOneEuroE30]

That front end looks real clean and mean

Thanks. Hopefully this chip will fix my issue and then my new temp sensor and Wideband and it should be drivable.

[2002jm]

:)

Looks great. Are you planning on putting the alpina deco kit on??
Love the front of this car!
jm

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Looks great. Are you planning on putting the alpina deco kit on??
Love the front of this car!
jm

I really haven't decided on if I want to put the stripes on or not. Not sure I wanna put stickers on such a nice paint job I may just put ALPINA in white letters front and center of the valence and call it good.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

My euro 320i/B6 3.5 Alpina Tribute the never ending saga

Got the mark D' chip in. Video is of very first start up. I was told it would likely do this and i need to give it a couple restarts to get 1.3 mo to acclimate. It only ran for maybe a min. Also may need go adjust the tb screw for the cable.

https://vimeo.com/175963689

Also bought my buddies Aem wideband off his turbo s2k cause he's going Ls1 so now i will be able to measure my air fuel and see if i need injectors. Just need him to pull it off the car now.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Played with it some more.

https://vimeo.com/175971408

I got it to even out by just giving it some gas and holding it for a second and then letting out, I also adjusted the throttle cable it give it some more fuel. It idles fairly high and when I let off the throttle it surges still. It did how ever fix my light throttle bogging issue. I also let the car get up to operating temp and the instant my needle clicked over to center my car started surging and i had to go give it some juice and adjust the cable nut just a hair. If i loosen the cable nut from wear its at the car will surge. Once i get it to stop surging and idle down i think i'll be okay. I believe those two problems are hand-in-hand and once one is fixed the other will follow. Wonder if its not a coolant temp sensor?

[kronus]

your throttle cable should be slack at idle, if it's not, it's holding your throttle body open and throttle position sensor off the "idle" setting.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

your throttle cable should be slack at idle, if it's not, it's holding your throttle body open and throttle position sensor off the "idle" setting.

Its got slack in it. I just had to much slack in it. I came to the realization that the high idle has followed motors so I think once i get it fixed they both will go away. I'm going to ohm my temp sensor to see if that could be an issue. I need to get that wide band ripped off the s2k and in my car.

[kronus]

adjusting your throttle cable slack should not affect your idle, at all.