Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[ak-]

Bought a large amount of cheap automotive sound insulation off amazon as well, hoping to cut down on exhaust drone. Two 60x40" sheets, and they weigh like maybe 1lb a sheet, so I'm not extremely confident that it's going to work great.

Can you update on how well this works out for you?
I wanted to put some under the delete plates I'm making for where my rear interior used to be!

What's the blue stuff at the end of your vacuum lines?
Is this M52 on the side going to be your "built" motor? Maybe go cut ring?

[Northern]

Had a weird boost cut feeling where the car would pull pretty strong to ~800mg/stk/4000 rpm, and then fall flat on its face. After that happened, it would feel like the car was dead until I turned it off and back on.

Looking at the log, I see that timing drops to 7 deg right around where the "boost cut" feeling happens. After that event, the engine doesn't seem to respond to any inputs, injector pw stays the same regardless of load/rpm...

Busterhax/Kyle offered to take a look at my partial and he pointed out the lack of timing, as well as some strange mix of 41.1 and 41.2 maps across the ecu.

I swapped all the 41.1 stuff for 41.2 and now my fuel map is a little lean everywhere, and I get lots of -.75 to -2.88deg knock corrections around 250mg/stk...

I've added a lot of fuel and pulled a bit of timing. I want to say it's better than it was, but we'll hopefully confirm it today.


After my ebay shifter fell apart twice while trying to get somewhere, I started making a floor mount shifter from random scrap I've found in my basement/shed. Some tubing that is the perfect diameter for a late shifter cup and some 1/8" sheet, plus a Z3m shifter... Need to decide how to mount it to the floor (either a la PMC/dibed shifter, or AKG/others)



Some quick engine bay pics:







I flipped my BOV to move it further from the MAF. It's a really tight squeeze now, not sure if it'll stay this way.

I found a guy who wanted to offload an M52, but wanted to keep the crank for a stroker M20 build. I offered to trade him a good crank instead of him opening it all up.

So I took the M52 that Roy was using back from where he was storing it. This was my first M52, which had a trans mounting boss snapped off the block, as well as a load of screws snapped off in various spots. It also never really ran right in his car. It would run OK for a bit, then just idle terribly/rich/blow the cat out the back/etc. We never figured out what it was, so he now has another M50 in his car.

So I tore that one down, and I'm meeting this guy later today to make the swap.



Head isn't terrible, but has a few snapped off exhaust studs that we tried to drill out by hand in a car tent, with an electric drill in the middle of winter... with maybe a 50% success rate. Probably going to try to get them oversized to M8 to not deal with it anymore.


Head gasket fire rings look weird/deformed, but it's a VR gasket, so maybe that's normal lol




Bought a large amount of cheap automotive sound insulation off amazon as well, hoping to cut down on exhaust drone. Two 60x40" sheets, and they weigh like maybe 1lb a sheet, so I'm not extremely confident that it's going to work great.

New turbo inlet elbow finally showed up, so I can ditch the ducttaped one, and the replacement BOV is here, just too lazy to install either.

Nothing else to report really.

I'm having bad thoughts about machining 1mm off the pistons I pulled, and running a thicker OE style gasket, which should be sorta-kinda like running a 0.120" MLS. I'm a little concerned about how thin the pistons are to begin with, but it might live for a bit.

[ba114]

Updates?

[Northern]

I'm not sure. I only start my logs after the car is on/warmed up, and they usually stop when I turn the car off, so that doesn't help. I'd have to check tomorrow at some point.

[ba114]

Well that's annoying!
We only get additional fees in Australia if we buy goods valued at >$1000 from overseas.

Hey on RR logger, do you get a MAF reading with car switched on but not running? I get the MAF volts (~0.4v) but no MAF reading?

[Northern]

I don't think I've ranted about UPS recently, so I think it's about due.

Ordered some $35 shit from ebay, shipping method was fedex. I'm not a huge fan of fedex, but at least they don't completely bend you over at the border.

I get a UPS "Infonotice" a few days later on my door and end up figuring out that it was for this part. The infonotice number "doesn't exist" on the UPS site, so I guess I can't reroute to pick it up. Also, the "myUPS" thing won't let me claim the package as mine to reroute, I guess because they must've wrote my name wrong. Aaaand there's somehow a $15.43 brokerage fee on the package, which is almost 50% of the value of the damn thing.

Day two, I left cash with my brother-in-law(who lives with us but works evenings) but they don't take cash, and now they've come a third time while he had my visa, but was in the shower. Now I have three worthless infonotices and I guess my package just gets sent back to wherever.

I mean, I guess I'll get a refund for the part, but for fuck sake can we just not use UPS.

[cleanasse30]

This will be my setup once i put it back together:


Check valve to manifold will open under vacuum, close when boosting.
Check valve to catch can/turbo inlet will open under vacuum from the turbo inlet. It *should* be closed when the manifold is under vacuum as i expect greater vacuum from the manifold than the inlet when the throttle is closed.

The extra catch can may be overkill, but i don't see it being an issue. Will probably have it drain back to the dipstick as well

I built my own version of this with check valves and a moroso catch can and it does work.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=4479391&postcount=47

[ba114]

all good, dont worry about the MAF. I had the DME relay disconnected as i thought it was the fuel pump relay which was causing incorrect voltages at the MAF. All sorted now!

[Northern]

Yeah I'm ditching the carrier. I'm not a fan of how it bolted up in the first place. The ZF320 carrier is offset where it goes into the rear bushing, and with the solid bushings, it wouldn't mount up unless I modded the bracket (A few sets of the offset carrier page 2/3 in this thread) like this:



With the solid condor engine mounts, I think a solid shifter will work fine. I might upgrade to e21 trans mounts if it's not great, but after experiencing this swap with solid trans mounts, I really don't want them.

I'll try to check the maf tonight.

[ba114]

Also, can you do me a favour and tell me what voltage you're seeing on the red/white wire going to your MAF with it unplugged and ignition on ACC? I'm seeing a very strange reading (2.6v)

[ba114]

So you're going to do away with the carrier altogether?
Interested to see how this goes with your engine & transmission mount setup

[Northern]

The one I have now also raises the cup by a bit, but the one you linked looks to be much nicer quality than mine haha. I think a floor mount will raise the pivot up by ~1" from stock as well.

Also: I have all new delrin shifter bushings/selector joint, but there's still play from the dumb shifter itself.

I even made replacement nylon bushings for the lower joint where the shifter attaches to the selector rod, but there are so many weak points on this shifter that I'm just going to go back to the stock style with that floor mount bracket.

[ba114]

i've been looking at this shifter as a possibility:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322293721774?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I like that it will raise the cup up from the carrier (like it should) so you don't have to bend the shift arm due to the added length under the fulcrum

[Northern]

^ going to make a very primitive catch can soon, just so I don't leak oil everywhere (not that I care, but if I do slaloms/track school/lapping days next year I feel like it'll be a problem.)


My stupid ebay shifter came apart again as I was driving just now, I'm so sick of this POS.


Going to make something to fit the stock style shifter again, and either run an e36 328i shifter from the shed, or modify a "metal ball" style for shorter throw and make something like this:

[ba114]

^ That's the thread where the guy flipped the input and output and gutted the check valve. I'm going to give that a shot at some point down the road.

This will be my setup once i put it back together:


Check valve to manifold will open under vacuum, close when boosting.
Check valve to catch can/turbo inlet will open under vacuum from the turbo inlet. It *should* be closed when the manifold is under vacuum as i expect greater vacuum from the manifold than the inlet when the throttle is closed.

The extra catch can may be overkill, but i don't see it being an issue. Will probably have it drain back to the dipstick as well