Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[Northern]

Not a huge update, but a little forward motion:

Swapped rusty 325ix with rusty E36 328is. Worth less, sure, but at least there are plenty of people looking for E36 parts around me. That + liquidating my iX stash can fund some things, hopefully.

I bought a replacement compressor wheel for the HX35/40, just to put back together for the future, or to sell - whatever.

Problem when it showed up:


Hmmm... One of these things is not like the other.


Looks like a compressor wheel for ants. Thing was like a 35mm inducer lol. Not an HX40 wheel at all.

Then the place wouldn't swap it for the right wheel either, only wanted to refund me, so no rebuild for the Holset.



Also, it snowed twice in 3 days back in Feb:




That's all melted now, but it's snowing as I type...



I have a lot of small tune-related things to go through before I start the car up again:

A weird high idle issue that I thought was gone, but is back. Maybe TPS related or a vacuum leak.

Injector deadtime values for the Siemens Deka 60's are just plain wrong, so I have a few different sets to try and see what works. This will hopefully fix the idle quality problems I'm having.

Rescale the load axis so I have some headroom, and the spacing is somewhat consistent. Currently pretty wacky (Deltas between load axis columns vary from 75 to 150 - could be 125 consistently, then it's a little more intuitive and slightly more range)



Picked up some OEM strut gland nuts, since the Koni Race specific ones are too hard to find.

I just ordered some stuff for the car from Blunt. Rear Mustang Konis(Finally!), and another $250 in clips and seals to stop leaks and fix little things :loco:



List of things I want to have done before summer:
- Fix Sport seats.
- Turn down OEM gland nuts so they don't interfere with the GE Hyperco springs.
- Fix glaring tune issues
- Figure out oil cooler solution.
- Rear subframe bushings/RTABs v2.0


The bad:
Killed another battery.

[Northern]

Went on another google rampage trying to find any difference between the two rear mustang shocks people commonly use, come with GC, TCK kits, etc.

Gave up and sent them an email. Less than 10 minutes later I received the following reply:

The 8041-1026 Sport is shorter by 5mm in compressed length position, however it does not use a bump stop.
The 8041-1186 Sport does have a bump stop installed from the factory which makes contact with the shock body 50mm before full compression is reached.
The dampers are valved exactly the same.

Hoping the March Koni sale happens as usual, I'll be picking up one or the other, although -1026 seems slightly~significantly cheaper depending on the source.

[Northern]

Couldn't find anyone who sold silicone lines here, so I just have rubber. Someday I'll remember to order silicone stuff and change it out.
I haven't been under to check, but I left a lot of slack between manifold and the line, so I don't expect it to melt. Definitely one of those things that could be improved.

Running off spring pressure right now, want to make a basic EBC but I'm too lazy to finish the projects I've started, let alone start a new one.

[ba114]

What sort of hose did you end up using for the wastegate vac lines? Curious about how they're holding up to the heat.

I'm contemplating making hard lines but is a lot of effort...

[Northern]

Loving all the pics of turbo cars all of a sudden. Now you're making me want to work on my car lol.

[ak-]

Sweet - as long as long term they don't cut any silicone that's dandy.
The convenient thing about the welded 45's, besides precise routing, is that the t-bolt clamps are much more accessible with the turn of a wheel now.

Couple of pics, one with the oil cooler like yours. I ran my oil lines under the unit because I think the AC stuff was in the way iirc.

[jph]

^ That's exactly how I have mine - behind the kidneys.
We also welded 45's to my intercooler for a precise fit to insure I can run fogs and brake ducting. Yours looks nice. :p

Thanks man. I might look into getting some extensions/angles welded on to my IC once I get the car back, put the engine in, and mock up the charge piping. As it sits right now I had to shave a lot off the back of the brake duct inlets on my MT2 valance to get them to clear the elbows and even then they still make contact but it's slight. I mean I pretty much shaved the ducts down to the back of the valance. Looks a little funny but it works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ak-]

^ That's exactly how I have mine - behind the kidneys.
We also welded 45's to my intercooler for a precise fit to insure I can run fogs and brake ducting. Yours looks nice. :p

[jph]

Northern's S257 + M52 325is

Here's a quick shot of the oil cooler I'm going to run on my E30 with a turbo M52. I have a new S54 oil filter housing and VAC AN adapter for the ports on the housing. Car is in paint now so haven't had a chance to hook it all up. I'm using the low profile Setrab fittings on the cooler itself and it juuuuust clears the underside of the top of the core support.

EDIT: It's a Setrab Series 9 Oil Cooler, 15 Row, M22 Ports




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

So I've stumbled across FC RX7 coolers, which are like a larger version of the M20 one, 500x100x50mm core... I think 605x110x52 overall dimensions. Feed/return on same side.

Biggest problem is finding one that's not made in china.

Alternatively, use the M20 cooler. Or pretend it's a Porsche and jam a normal shaped one in the wheel well with creative ducting/stone guard.

[varg]

If you place it horizontally behind the valance/lip you could make an air duct to feed it from the bottom oval vent.

I'm currently running without an oil cooler because there just is not a lot of real estate for one with a big FMIC, this would not be an option if I intended on tracking the car, but I have neither time nor money for that so no big deal.

[Northern]

Setrab makes some nice slim ones that would fit... for $400USD

Maybe it isn't worth trying to fit one there... I could cut the valence/bumper some more for airflow and stuff a generic shaped one in front of the driver's wheelwell above the brake duct(which I want to retain)

[Northern]

Here's a refresher for how much space I have above/below the fmic... not much.

[Northern]

I was looking at something like the Derale cooler that Sh3rpak!ng has for his PS: Similar shape to stock M20, but with in/out on the same end and AN fittings. This seems like it would be the easiest one to fit by far.

Unfortunately I think they only come as PS coolers with -6AN fittings, so I'm going to have to get creative I guess.

[AWDBOB]

I've used these in the past (not on e30s) with great success. If it were me, there is no way I'd consider an oil cooler from ebay. If it fails and you're in boost.......

http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26M/130/7027...Fc63wAodMZ8FyA