Northern's Sterlingsilber M52 Turbo 325is

[Northern]

I pulled the BOV out of the car today to mess with it. Figured I can't really make it any worse, so why not.

Pulled the cover off the valve, and found that it leaked from around the small valve in the centre, so I stripped it down. What I found:



That didn't look right, so I pulled the large valve apart and found that the bonded rubber/silicone ring was missing half way around, and also somehow the plastic of the big valve had worn into the metal on the small valve...



I pulled the rest of the silicone off, chucked it in a drill and sanded it down, then cleaned it and threw a thin layer of silicone on it. Hopefully it works at least a tiny bit better than before. It sure as hell can't be any worse.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Man I've been through the ins and outs of that thread and almost every other CCV thread in the f/i section of bfc haha. That's actually the one I was referring to. Everyone who did a check valve to the exhaust never had success - only the guy with the Dakar m3 in Irvine who ran a vac pump had tremendous success with it. His video is so cool.
Another guy with an m20 turbo did the same with the handle e30ordie on Instagram.

I've done quite a bit of research starting in the v8 world and did a lot of testing to learn more about the setup and functionality. What I understand is that it's most effective (in the v8 world) when a full exhaust is not being run. Reason being is that system back pressure quickly negates the small amount of vacuum via the exhaust evac setup. If you're running no mufflers and terminating the exhaust system 20 inches after your collector, there is zero back pressure. The vacuum measurements I took off the evac fitting on my exhaust at various positions seemed to follow this. At low-mid rpm I pulled vacuum, and at mid-high rpm I didn't (where back pressure would have increased). I never got around to taking static pressure readings from the exhaust to confirm my theory, or measuring vacuum with both mid and rear mufflers removed, but I am quite sure that was it (I do intend to revisit this project and continue testing).

If I didn't have a MAF, and if I wasn't asking for trouble already with stock CR, I'd probably just run it as is.

I've been through that thread twice, and it didn't instill a lot of confidence in the exhaust draft setup. Plus I still think it will fill the resonator/muffler with oil over time.

I don't think I'd ever consider wiring up and finding space for a vacuum pump, but I think I will do some sort of well-vented catch can down there to catch the majority of liquid that comes out, just so it doesn't look like my car leaks any more than a normal E36 PS setup...

I know of another guy who had success with the setup running a supercharged 24v in his e30. But as I mentioned before with the v8s, this guy had no muffler and the exhaust running straight out the passenger fender aka no back pressure.

Regarding filling your exhaust/muffler with oil, it does not. I've checked mine several times and there wasn't even any residue on the inside of the pipe after the bung. Though the inside of the fitting itself does get a little grimy.

[Good & Tight]

I've never had luck with this setup :( ruined my octane rating and damaged my first motor long time ago from the cumbustion contamination.
What's your secret? I think I remember your hose from the catch can is just hovering in front of the turbo inlet rather than being directly plumbed into it on an elbow?
Does piston ring gap have anything to do with this? Like, if the gap is expanded from heat to be almost fully sealed for little to know blow by to pass through, I imagine you can directly plumb the line into the inlet with no ill effect?
Almost every single turbo 2jz engine I see is like this and it makes me mad jealous.

My 24v turbo setup was a draw through MAF, so it was between the MAF and turbo inlet.
I fabricated my own baffled catch can using 1/2" hoses. The negative pressure at the turbo inlet is pretty high with a filter under boost, too much vacuum and it will draw oil through.

I think the key is how the catch can inlet and outlet are placed. Mine was piped --> valve cover line to bottom of catch can, and the top catch can line to turbo inlet.

On the turbo M30 no catch can or air filter, just a 3/4" heater hose to the bottom of inlet cone.

[Northern]

Also when I get the new BOV, I'm thinking about moving it to the other side, pre-FMIC.

Mostly thinking about this to try to get it further away from the MAF...
I also don't see the point of bringing hot air through the FMIC that I'm not even going to use, and it's there to relieve pressure from the compressor anyway, so why shouldn't it be closer?

Biggest downsides to moving it are: more vacuum line, and potential space issues.


Any opinions?

[Northern]

If I didn't have a MAF, and if I wasn't asking for trouble already with stock CR, I'd probably just run it as is.

I've been through that thread twice, and it didn't instill a lot of confidence in the exhaust draft setup. Plus I still think it will fill the resonator/muffler with oil over time.

I don't think I'd ever consider wiring up and finding space for a vacuum pump, but I think I will do some sort of well-vented catch can down there to catch the majority of liquid that comes out, just so it doesn't look like my car leaks any more than a normal E36 PS setup...

[ak-]

I had a feeling you would. Most any catch cans combined with boost and plumbed to the intake seem to not pull enough vacuum and or suck oil into the IM. I had that issue even on my NA motor.


Check out this thread I started a while back from bimmerforums: HERE. Lots of good ideas and thoughts on the topic. Basically what it came down to were two solutions. Either dumping to atmosphere with or without a vented catch can, or utilizing the exhaust evac kit in conjunction with a pressure activated vacuum pump (seemed to be the best solution - pulling vacuum and no smell/mess)

I would at least stick a good vented catch can (moroso makes some nice ones) on the end of the hose instead of just straight dumping to atmosphere so you catch some of the heavy oil and just let the vapor vent rather than letting it all drip out

Man I've been through the ins and outs of that thread and almost every other CCV thread in the f/i section of bfc haha. That's actually the one I was referring to. Everyone who did a check valve to the exhaust never had success - only the guy with the Dakar m3 in Irvine who ran a vac pump had tremendous success with it. His video is so cool.
Another guy with an m20 turbo did the same with the handle e30ordie on Instagram.

I've routed the catch can as follows:
Valve cover to catch can to turbo inlet.

I've never had luck with this setup :( ruined my octane rating and damaged my first motor long time ago from the cumbustion contamination.
What's your secret? I think I remember your hose from the catch can is just hovering in front of the turbo inlet rather than being directly plumbed into it on an elbow?
Does piston ring gap have anything to do with this? Like, if the gap is expanded from heat to be almost fully sealed for little to know blow by to pass through, I imagine you can directly plumb the line into the inlet with no ill effect?
Almost every single turbo 2jz engine I see is like this and it makes me mad jealous.

[Good & Tight]

I've routed the catch can as follows:
Valve cover to catch can to turbo inlet.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

As far as the car goes, I removed the Mann Provent today in favour of venting to atmosphere. I used some M20 coolant hose that was big enough to fit over the OBD2 valve cover, something like 1" ID. Dumps down right in front of the driver side engine arm for now.

I had a feeling you would. Most any catch cans combined with boost and plumbed to the intake seem to not pull enough vacuum and or suck oil into the IM. I had that issue even on my NA motor.

This really bothers me.
It looks like the only 2 success stories of people I know of who didn't dump to atmosphere are using vacuum pumps with a pressure valve routed to the exhaust. A guy with an m20 turbo and an e36 M3 turbo.

Check out this thread I started a while back from bimmerforums: HERE. Lots of good ideas and thoughts on the topic. Basically what it came down to were two solutions. Either dumping to atmosphere with or without a vented catch can, or utilizing the exhaust evac kit in conjunction with a pressure activated vacuum pump (seemed to be the best solution - pulling vacuum and no smell/mess)

I would at least stick a good vented catch can (moroso makes some nice ones) on the end of the hose instead of just straight dumping to atmosphere so you catch some of the heavy oil and just let the vapor vent rather than letting it all drip out

[Northern]

That sounds good. I'd love to have a cheaper option if I ever have to re-do anything.


I keep having bad thoughts about buying a rotten e39/e36 as a beater and throwing all my leftover shit on it. Just take the cheap route with everything and see how long it lasts. Flip OBD2 manifolds and weld them to a T3, ebay wyntonm wastegate (or ebay turbo + internal gate, and stock maf+ resistor, use a hammer to install everything, etc.

See if I can do it for <$1k r3v style.

[ba114]

Thanks. How's yours coming? Any progress since the last post in your thread.

Nothing other than fitting the 135i msport steering wheel. I'm over in Japan on holidays at the moment, but the head is being machined, valve seals done and valves lapped in back home while I'm here.

Have to order another cutring gasket this week and then its reassembly time!

Been helping another local with his m52 swap. Getting some good practice with revising his tune with romraider so will be set with mine when it's ready.

Also ordered a slot style maf from a 350z that I'll build a proper maf table for with a resistor that should get it to about 2200kg/hr readings which will hopefully give a cheap alternative to the HPX for the community.

[Northern]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pro...estion.588697/

^ That's the thread where the guy flipped the input and output and gutted the check valve. I'm going to give that a shot at some point down the road.

Also, I opened the lid before I removed it, I was surprised to see a few cc's of water sitting in the top of it (it's flat inside, but it was tilted ~10 degrees, so it pooled on that side)

I think if I gut it and install it again, I'll be running a clear hose down under the car with a valve in the end to collect whatever drains out of it instead of routing back to the pan, I'll check it and drain it when I need to.

[ak-]

I haven't even done throttle over ~35% and my Mann Provent is already spitting oil into my turbo inlet, so I think I'm going to rip this off and dump to atmosphere. Not worth the few theoretical crank case vacuum HP to be messing with the AFR by trying to burn oil with stock CR. Also I'm not looking to buy another MAF anytime soon.

This really bothers me.
It looks like the only 2 success stories of people I know of who didn't dump to atmosphere are using vacuum pumps with a pressure valve routed to the exhaust. A guy with an m20 turbo and an e36 M3 turbo.

[Northern]

Install looks great....! I ran a turbo blanket with no issues.

That's good news for me then!

Good progress dude!

Thanks. How's yours coming? Any progress since the last post in your thread?




As far as the car goes, I removed the Mann Provent today in favour of venting to atmosphere. I used some M20 coolant hose that was big enough to fit over the OBD2 valve cover, something like 1" ID. Dumps down right in front of the driver side engine arm for now.

The thing with the Provent, is that the inlet is filtered, and the oil eventually needs to flow through the filter to go anywhere. I don't understand why it works this way, but I read about someone who gutted the check valve and ran the hoses the opposite way, and surprise, it seems to work better when the outlet is the one that's filtered.

Also deleted my antenna today. It's been unplugged for ~3 years anyway (wouldn't go up the last step, drained battery when car was off.) I don't know where the cap came from, but with a few layers of electrical tape, some lube and a quick smack, it popped right in.

Best/worse thing I did today was do a boost leak test. Found out my old shitty ebay BOV is shittier than I thought. Leaks massively all the time. New one ordered just now...

[ba114]

Good progress dude!

[Good & Tight]

Install looks great....! I ran a turbo blanket with no issues.