Haven't touched the car in a while, figured I'd finally bite the bullet on the AKG shifter setup I've been eyeing forever.
On their respective ways are the AKG motorsport (II?) shifter, AKG's non-M3 DSSR, and a set of Garagistic 80A poly motor and transmission mounts. I had AKG 75D motor mounts in the past, and found them too harsh on the street. We'll see if the 80A Garagistic pieces can hold things in place without being obnoxious.
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E30 #2: 1990 Delphin: RHD ITB M20
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Originally posted by digger View Posti went to a penny and giles hall effect TPS purchased from jenvey, i was getting temperature drift with OEM s54 tps and every other one i tried enough to throw out the tune a long way at very low throttle settings. the contactless sensor is pretty expensive but awesome and all issues have vanished to date....touch wood.
the way i looked a it was the two most important sensors are crank sensor and tps when running alpha-n so youd want these to be as reliable as possible.....OEM realized this and many modern bmw have contactless
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i went to a penny and giles hall effect TPS purchased from jenvey, i was getting temperature drift with OEM s54 tps and every other one i tried enough to throw out the tune a long way at very low throttle settings. the contactless sensor is pretty expensive but awesome and all issues have vanished to date....touch wood.
the way i looked a it was the two most important sensors are crank sensor and tps when running alpha-n so youd want these to be as reliable as possible.....OEM realized this and many modern bmw have contactless
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I moved the ground for the Bluetooth power supply to the ground post on the back of the Blaupunkt. This seems to have removed most if not all of the whine, but we'll see.
Re-painted the rockers, happy with the result. SEM Trim Black is fantastic.
Last edited by 318aye; 08-15-2017, 06:09 AM.
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Still waiting on airbox info. Going to redo the black section along the rocker panels this week. I'm also getting some alternator whine/ground loop noise with my bluetooth setup, going to re-ground the power supply and see if that helps.
Was poking around looking for pictures of these ITB's for someone, and found a video someone made of the car at The Vintage this year:
Also found a replica (Ripped from FB) of my dyno video posted by someone I don't know...
Took the car out to an autocross at ZMAX last weekend, had fun. The sidewalls on the G-Force Sport Comp II's were like gummy bears :(. Car needs swaybars badly. Ran about a second and half off an instructor's lap who drove the car with me.
I did get "talked to" about the exhaust volume, it registered at 101 db at full tilt :(.
Also got the new garage completed :). Having my own workspace will be nice.
Last edited by 318aye; 08-15-2017, 06:08 AM.
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Oh yes! If that box is an option I am definitely going to be getting an ITB setup.
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It looks like Rama is going to save me some effort :D:D:D. He's thinking around $350, and carbon should be an option.
I've put a few hundred miles on the new TPS, haven't seen any degradation yet. Will keep this updated, may develop a non contact potentiometer solution in the mean time.
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Got the new TPS in today. Can confirm Bosch 0280122001 is a direct fit (sweep, bolt pattern, etc) for this kit while using the provided adapter plate. Rama also confirmed via email that the initial (chinese) TPS's were having some issues living in these conditions. He also offered to ship me the M50 TPS adapter for the kit free of charge which was nice. I replaced the sensor, re-synced the throttles, calibrated the TPS and it now drives like a charm.
I was able to remove the master throttle plate by itself without pulling any of the cast manifolds. Involved some fiddling to get the sensor out from under the harness, but after the trumpet extensions came off it wasn't bad.
We also messed with the Idle Ignition Advance settings to try and keep the AC idle up mild while only using an idle screw. By increasing the engagement RPM and adding fuel at target RPM, it now idles around 1100 and drops to 1000 when you turn the compressor on.:D
Last edited by 318aye; 08-13-2017, 02:46 PM.
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Originally posted by Reichart12 View PostHey I was flipping through the der Bayerische with their coverage of the Vintage and noticed this engine shot. Recognized it right away from the blue valve cover.
Small Updates: Took the car to the beach for a few days. TPS signal degraded enough to affect driveability on the way home. I think this is the same issue that Dyno4mance and others have run into. The provided TPS appears to be a copy of Bosch PN 0280122001. I've purchased the OEM Bosch version, and we'll see if it lives any longer. If not, the ultimate solution will probably need to be a non-contact hall sensor.
5/16/15
7/26/15 (same scale)
Sensor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
A dime sized section of clear coat also magically removed itself from my roof.
On the positive side, I have functional AC again! PO said the system had a leak, and was out of R12. After speaking to several techs, I vacuum tested the system, and put in 75% of the recommended R12 charge weight in R134. I'm $12 in for the adapter fitting, and $45 in for the AC charge. System was completely OEM R12 beforehand. Will advise on how long it lives.
Finally buttoned up the glove box. Ordered a 6ft DB9 ribbon cable and used the DB9 90* adapter that I didn't realize Whodwho included with my ecu 4 months ago. Everything fits nicely (clears the firewall insulation perfectly), is secured with mounting 2-56 screws (no more loose connections) and allowed me to put the stock glovebox panel with the light back in.
Cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00
On the airbox side: still working out a time to get the bay scanned so I can start modeling. Since the AC is functional now, I'm going to try out strengthening the idle settings (more map timing, and a bit more fuel) to try and reduce the amount of idle up necessary. If that isn't as successful as I'd like, I'm going to look at adding an ICV. It'll be easily hidden once a box is in place, and would only require drilling and tapping the existing bosses underneath the manifolds (one is already in place for the booster). They'd be linked together much the same way you'd run a MAP line, but with larger hose. The ICV (would most likely use the stock one, as the wiring is already in place) could then draw filtered air once the box is done, and AC idle up should be easily achieved. We shall see.
Last edited by 318aye; 08-13-2017, 02:45 PM.
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