M30 OEM Turbo project

[slammin.e28]

I've put them together w/out those clips before....mostly because dumbass me lost them and had to have the DD together for school the next morning.

No probs.

[Balleristic31]

^ I've done the same thing but DID have an injector unseat on my m42 in my school parking lot and spray gas everywhere. :p so it can happen.

Keep up the build!

[CorvallisBMW]

Does the m42 rail bolt to the manifold or secure in any way? If not, I could definitely see that happening.

I think I'll be OK, but I will most definitely be keeping a very close eye on things. Normally engines run under vacuum 99% of the time, but mine is going to have boost. So if ever there was an opportunity for an injector to pop out, this would be it. I will also loctite the bolts that hold the rail to the manifold just in case. The 535i I pulled the rail from was missing all 3 of it's bolts

[LJ851]

Seems like it would be pretty easy to put some slots in the new injectors with a thin hacksaw blade or similar.

[CorvallisBMW]

Ya, I thought of that but I'm nervous about cutting in to an injector. I'll try it w/o clips first, and if I get a snag, I'll consider it.

[2mAn]

Looking good! Its all starting to come together

[kamotors]

only 36lb injectors? how much boost are you planning on running?

M30 turbo is a thirsty monster!

(M20 turbo will be at 100% duty cycle near 10psi on 30lbers)

I'm at 50% dutycycle with 80lb injectors and 1000cc of meth at only 14psi at 11.8/11.9afr, just from experience I'd say that the 36lbers would be good to around 8psi on an M30.

deka 60lbers and 80lbers will both bolt on and clip in;)

[CorvallisBMW]

I'm only planning on around 8psi, possibly 10 with some tweaks to the tune

[ZenitramNaes]

I have technically 29lbers with the k27 and I can get about 8psi. I plan on 60lbs with the newer turbo.

[CorvallisBMW]

Got a bit of work done this weekend. I finished up some wiring on the oil pressure gauge and took the time to really do it right. For those of you that know me, electricity and I get along like, well, electricity and water. Wiring is not my strong point (if I can't see the electrons how the fuck do I know what they're doing!?!??). But through the guidance (read: head-shaking shame) of our benevolent overlord Mr Crivellone I've begun to learn the proper way to keep those pesky little electrons in check. No more wire nuts for this guy!



The oil pressure switch has two terminals, one for the gauge itself and one for factory "idiot light". Wiring is fairly straightforward. You have to clip off the connector for the factory idiot sensor at the back of the head, and extend the wire to the new sensor (I also removed the factory sensor and replaced it with the VDO oil temp sensor as it's an excellent location). Wiring done right. No stripped wire wound around a terminal here! Proper ring terminals, waterproof marine heat shrink, and labels. I'm quite proud of myself :)




Also on the docket was to "create" some bolts for the turbo to mount to the manifold. When I bought the complete m106 system, I couldn't find any of the 4 bolts that I assume we're meant to attach the turbo. And strangely, realOEM doesn't list any.




So my solution was to use some of the stock exhaust studs, washers, and nuts to build some bolts. I could have kept these as "studs", but frankly studs are a PITA to use and I didn't see any point in using them as such. It would have made the assembly of the turbo and manifold significantly more difficult to do given all the tight clearances.

Take all the factory bits you need



Buy some good epoxy



Coat the threads



And repeat until you have 4 "bolts"

[kronus]

studs have some mechanical benefit in that they're put into blind holes until they're tight, and then not fucked with, so the possibility of pulling out the threads or cross-threading the stud is low.

so, uh, be careful :)

[dirty30]

The bolts are #6 in the image 11 65 1 273 042. They are $38.61 ea lol. Looks like BMW won't sell you them either since its a gray market bolt and they are douchebags like that.

[CorvallisBMW]

studs have some mechanical benefit in that they're put into blind holes until they're tight, and then not fucked with, so the possibility of pulling out the threads or cross-threading the stud is low.

so, uh, be careful :)

Yes I'll be careful :) Honestly studs make it very difficult to install or remove the turbo, since you can't get any torque on them. I'm more worried about only engaging 3-4 threads on the turbo end and having a whole bunch of threads pushed up past the nut than I am about cross-threading. The long sleeves in the manifold that the studs go through make it nearly impossible to cross-thread.

The bolts are #6 in the image 11 65 1 273 042. They are $38.61 ea lol. Looks like BMW won't sell you them either since its a gray market bolt and they are douchebags like that.

Shit, your right. I've looked at that diagram 100x and never noticed them before

Oh well, bolts FTW!

edit: Get the same thing from McMaster for 1/10th the price:
Socket heads http://www.mcmaster.com/#91292a223/=wc62w3
Hex heads http://www.mcmaster.com/#91287a180/=wc63ml

[CorvallisBMW]

Time for gauges!

VDO makes a series of gauges called "Vision" that are almost a dead match for the factory gauges. With the extra stress on the motor from the turbo, it's a good idea (and cheap insurance) to add a few gauges so you really know what's going on under the hood.

I chose to monitor water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure.


Part numbers (in case anyone is interested)
Oil temp sender: 323900
Oil temp gauge: 310-109

Water temp sender: 323900
Water temp gauge: 310-108

Oil pressure sender: 360009
Oil pressure gauge: 350-101


Each gauge requires a sending unit. The temp senders are similar for both water and oil. Water goes in to one of the spare ports on the thermostat housing:



Oil temp goes in to the port on the back of the head that normally carries a 1-wire sensor for the oil pressure "idiot light"



And the oil pressure sensor I attached to a custom setup on the oil filter housing. Note that it has 2 terminals; one for the gauge and one to run the factory idiot light.



The gauges themselves are going in to a panel that sits behind the ashtray. Wiring is kind of tricky, mostly due to the number of connections. Each gauge has:

12V for lights
Ground for lights
12V for the gauge
Ground for the gauge
The sender wire itself

Lots of wiring to do!



The instructions for the gauges said, in very bold and underlined font, that 14ga dedicated ground wires were required for each gauge in order to ensure accuracy. So I found a decent spot just under the ashtray, cleaned off the surface treatment, and attached three 14ga wires and ring terminals.





The I cut 2 holes in the console and ran the wires from the grounds and engine bay. Grounds are on the left, 12V and signal wires are on the right. I decided to separate the 12V source for the lights and gauges, so they're on separate circuits.



I love labels!





All ready to be hooked up



Bit by bit



And done!

[IronFreak]

Very nicely done. those little tags on the wires would probably make me hate wiring a little less.....not much, but some.