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At some point I thought I will never manage to make an equal length manifold, but after few hours things were on the bright side.
Primaries are 42mm pipe which connect to a 3-1 collector, after that there's a short 51mm pipe/transition piece to the turbo flange, all pipes are equal length.
Yesterday I spent a couple of moments looking and turning the turbo in different positions, tried different steel bends and ended up doing two collectors. The manifold will be equal length 6-2 type, I still need to make a turbo flange and get few more bigger diameter bends. But here's a start:
I haven't bothered to comment on your FB page or posts to r3v, but that control arm looks great. Any plans for a production version?
Yes, just a matter of time ;D
Earlier I inquired about S300 series turbochargers, but calculations proved there's no big enough turbine housings available, so... I had to look for something bigger. S467 would meet my requirements, but I wasn't sure if it would fit at all. Luckily I found one for testing, with 5" intake pipe:
This is a cast wheel unit with regular comp cover, I'll probably get the billet wheel unit with race cover:
Recently I acquired 3D printer for rapid prototyping, one of the first test pieces was our designed BMW M10/M30 rocker arm. Got a few ideas how to utilize the printer with the E30 :) (click to view the video clip at facebook)
I've been searching for a suitable turbocharger lately, it's been too damn cold at the garage to do anything without keeping it warm continuously
At first I was looking for a Precision 6766, but then I noticed BorgWarner has released their new SX-E series, which might be a notable rival being also a little bit cheaper.
The one I'm interested is the S369 measured at 69/91mm comp and 74/80mm turbine.
I was wondering if anyone is running an older S366 in their M30B35 for reference? I'd like to see dynographs and boost/backpressure charts..
In case there's no info available, I'd probably go for a T4 1.00 A/R housing as my engine will be +10:1 CR revved up to 8k and supercharger will be helping at the low end ;D
Theres a youtube video I saw a few years back, guy used a simple process to keep the foam in shape and be able to use the shape he had made. ill see if I can find it and post.
I like playing with foam, but what comes after that isn't my favorite :D I should probably try something more advanced release wax for the fiberglass parts and also find a proper paint which wouldn't melt because of the resin if it would ease the job...
I think that's enough of the intercooling -topic :D We'll see how things work and I'll give you the results then.
Lately I've been playing with the bodywork, lot's of foam and fiberglass stuff ahead... Made one little foam piece between the door and engine bay/wheel well, nice round edge for a better air flow, not to forget about the looks:
why the hate on the water to air? I find most that oppose it, have never used it and are just regurgitating what they've seen online from others who have zero experience with it.
The rx7 and mr2 communities have had alot of success using them (including in DD setups). I can't wait to see this in action
It's not a "hate" thing at all. No, I don't have any personal experience with it, so I can only go by what I read. For drag racing air/water seems to be very good as you can put ice water in the tank and it will keep your intake air charge very cold until the water gets too warm. For daily driving it can be good, too, because the amount of time spent at WOT as a percentage of total driving is very small, so you're not going to be putting a lot of heat into the system. On a track car, however, you're heavily on the throttle almost the entire time, so there is a huge amount of heat going into your cooling water. The warmer that water gets, the less effective it is at cooling your intake charge, obviously.
On top of that, with the traditional air/air you've got a very simple set up of a few pipes and the heat exchanger: the only real points of failure are joins between the charge piping, which are easy to make "bullet proof." With the air/water, you have to have a water tank, an electric water pump, water lines, an air/water heat exchanger to cool the intake charge, and a water/air heat exchanger to cool your water. Far more parts, far more potential points of failure.
Now, this particular car is being built for street/time attack as per the thread title, and most time attacks involve very few laps at a time, so this might well be a decent application for air/water.
Try as I might, off the top of my head I can't think of any dedicated track car that I've ever seen online or in person that uses an air/water intercooler, they're always air/air.
Regardless, it's only my opinion and not my car, I'd rather not derail this thread any more.
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