E30 Street/TimeAttack (+ E36 V8 Turbo Touring)

[Miuge]

I think I should start doing something more concrete soon

But here's the finished prototype!

[semaj4712]

This thread is too epic...damn

[Miuge]

Quick update of the ATI damper :) I'm currently printing 1/3 of the trigger wheel.. why didn't I buy a bigger printer...

[Anthony B]

This just gets cooler & cooler.

I need to figure out a multi v alternator, & water pump pulley to make use of the ATI option

[Miuge]

I made two more flanges, one for water in and another for water out, I'll weld 40mm bends to both flanges. No more need for that big thermostat housing because EWP ;D


Earlier I acquired boxful of silicone hoses for coolant and charge pipes from size range 16mm to 100mm:

[Miuge]

Yeah I know they have a product available, but for me it's no use since I'm not going to use v-belt or need a direct bolt-on part.
Someone looking for a cheaper solution with skills to carry out multi-rib belt conversion could get the ATI damper shell assembly for $350 (2-ring variation even cheaper) and our complete custom hub + trigger wheel will probably be less than $300 total (how much less depends do we get any interest in this). :)

[Anthony B]

Nice working point with the damper, ppm sells one for the m30/s38's but after the delay with my valves I'd be hesitant to buy one.

https://www.pureperformancemotorsport.com/index.php/bmw-m30-s38-custom-racing-harmonic-balancer-e34-m5-e28-schwingun.html

[Miuge]

Yes it needs to be installed first to keep the design simple. There's still plenty of room behind the trigger so I could add nuts behind it or weld threaded sleeves to the wheel for more engagement.

[Ryan335]

I'm afraid multi-rib needs a separate tensioner.

It would utilize those non-countersunk holes, the hub would have three non-threaded holes too and the trigger wheel would be threaded (or countersunk bolts from the other direction with threaded hub, which would make tightening afterwards quite hard though) :)

Ah well, lots of choices for tensioners out there ;)

Your solution was as I suspected. Sounds like the ring would need to be installed before the hub so you could do counter sunk bolts from behind and potentially get more thread engagement in the hub. Although I do not know the material or dimensions you're working with so that may not even be a concern.

Keep it up!

[RAVISH]

Awesome!!

Hello everybody! My name is Mikko, I live in Finland and I've been building my E30 for years slowly with love and emotion.. Car is pretty much pure track build with a bunch of my designed and fabricated custom parts. Some of you might have seen my project pictures at r3vlimited facebook group, now I finally got myself registered here :)
So where should I start then... I have LOTS of pictures and also as much story to tell, but I'll just offer you a short list of the modifications I've done or what I'm going to do:

Engine:
-M30B35 twincharged with Eaton M112 and maybe a PT6766 or similar
-Water to air intercooler (pic)

Drivetrain:
-ZF GS6-53DZ gearbox (pic)
-E60 M5 differential (pic)
-E60 M5 driveshaft (pic)
-E34 output shafts

Suspension:
-K-sport Track coilovers (pic)
-E36 M3 spindles front (pic)
-Modified E34 M5 rear axle (pic)
-DTM style adjustment in every corner (pic)

Brakes:
-Porsche Cayenne Brembos 6- and 4-pot (pic)
-E46 M3 discs front (pic)
-E34 M5 discs rear
-Pedalbox (pic)

Steering:
-E46 steering rack (pic)
-Electric power steering pump

Wheels:
-17" 5x120
-275/40 front, 315/35 rear

Chassis:
-FIA rollcage
-lots of fiberglass

Pictures in my Photobucket:

http://s187.photobucket.com/user/mice325/library/?sort=3&page=1

Don't forget to like our Facebook page, we might have some cool stuff there

https://www.facebook.com/magnusracingteam

Thanks,
Miuge

[Miuge]

I'm afraid multi-rib needs a separate tensioner.

It would utilize those non-countersunk holes, the hub would have three non-threaded holes too and the trigger wheel would be threaded (or countersunk bolts from the other direction with threaded hub, which would make tightening afterwards quite hard though) :)

[Ryan335]

First off, I love how your doing this to an M30. It's awesome.

Curious to see the complete serpentine set up, will you still tension with the alternator mount?

Also how will you mount the trigger wheel behind? It is my understanding the three non-countersunk holes on the damper were for attaching accessories.

[Miuge]

Yesterday I spent few hours thinking about the damper solution, first I gathered critical dimensions of the orginal damper, crank and hub, then I moved on designing new parts.
Chevy hub is much sturdier than M30 hub, but changing the crank front seal to a next ID size I could grow the wall thickness :)


Everything seems to fit rather well, trigger wheel could be located behind the damper which means orginal sensor location could be used, also belt line remains pretty much the same as orginal of course the v-belt pulleys should be changed..

[Miuge]

I've seen lot's of discussion about damper/crank hub related problems in M30 engine builds lately. I found out some Finnish builders have used ATI 2JZ damper in their builds (both M20 and S38), but I wanted to have some facts before heading to buy one. That made me contact ATI directly, luckily I did, because they didn't recommend using 2JZ damper, probably because it's low weight/inertia (for M30). Their recommendation was bigger 7" damper for a SBC so I started to search one..
One very slightly used item showed up on eBay so I had to buy it :)

I'll have to fabricate a new crank hub and trigger wheel to make it fit, a good thing that's a serpentine damper so I can directly drive my alternator belt with it:


Some time ago I had to acquire couple of aluminum chunks to fabricate some engine flanges, the first one was oil pickup plate I made by hand. Still need to add AN10 fittings to draw the oil line to remote oil filter sandwich plate.

[rwh11385]

Whoa, the fabrication going on in this thread is pretty wild.