Matracer's project: BRONZIT S52 - DYNO RESULTS P.8

[MatRacer]

Long time without update! So I was not able to fit spacer in the rear with as 25mm was to much and that the 15mm that I already had were also to much for the 225 45 16 tire I ended with... the 205 45 I ordered at first were just too stretched for me...

Also, I replace my front pads with hawk street/race (pretty much the same as the old dtc30) and I like them!

Regarding my dyno run, I later found out that the final run had not saved in their dyno computer... So I went back on the dyno for free... this time, I had larger tires... they sync back the rpm but it was not right on (the tuner was in training in Texas and the mechanic did the best he could) so the run I have underestimate a bit the hp... but it's still good! Nice gain all over the curve! And very good throttle responsiness!

Attempted two other track day and I had a blast! I went to a track that I never went and there is a turn similar to the famous Laguna Seca cork screw! It was just crazy!

Finally, I ended rebuilding my vanos with the Beisan kit. Easy and effective. Their DIY is just perfect!

[MatRacer]

To solve my brake issue I ordered Zimmermann disc and hawk street/race pad. I'm really looking forward trying then... it should be day and night versus my actual pads!

Also, my RS3 are starting to be too worn out for the street, but still very good for the track. So I bought these wheel for the street and will wrap them with 205 45 r16 Dunlop Direzza dz102. Was considering the Firestone Firehawk indy 500, but I can't switch the inside to outside to balance camber wear... so went with the Direzza.





They are Stance Mindset 16x8 et26. I will dial in the fitment after the first try on the e30, with my actual spacer: 3mm front and 15mm rear.

I have a set of 4 35mm spacers that I will modify to fit what I need. However, I'm limited to 25mm with my studs. Should fit all that within the two next weeks. Can't wait!

[MatRacer]

After all that done, it was time for a track day!! Two friends and I are in the process of setting up a lapping club for the "local" track... it's was our first official event! We got 9 cars and 11 bikes!

It was a nice day!







After 1h30 of track time, one of my front disc cracked! My pads were really not suited for track, not overheating, but not braking well at all (really noticed that when got a ride in a friends miata... I had to press very hard on the pedal.


Pics of the bikes for those interested. It's pretty impressive! They go FAST!!

[MatRacer]

After that done, drove it for about 500 miles. The quicker rack (had an e36 rack) and the swaybars made a huge diffetence on the overall feel and handling!

Since I'm running a S52 will all the obd1 intake and DME with and TMS s50 chip for my 24# injector and 3.5maf, the tune is not perfect for my setup. Since the WOT curve is in open loop and that I now have 0,2liter more displacement, I was wondering how leaner I could be... It was time for a dyno day!

Two days before the dyno day, my vanos started to rattle... so I decided to replace it with the one I had on the S50... it was not rattling according to my souvenir.

The evening before THE DAY, I wanted to get it in the garage for the vanos replacement and it did not start!! [emoji35]

After 30 mins of diagnostic, it was a dead fuel pump... hopefully, I had one on the shelf!! Pretty lucky! At 22h30, everything was done and I was ready!!

https://youtu.be/mwEt_zj1X5A

I was pretty lean in WOT...! Around 14.5 afr! I was putting down 235whp. After many pulls, we got 263whp!! And better afr. Pretty happy with that!

Also, I lurned that dyno + camber is not easy on tires



I should get the curve shortly...

[MatRacer]

Hey! Things have been pretty busy for me...! First, here is two more pics of the the brake cooling setup...done on that!

I also installed a new z3 steering get rack from AAE Steering and a ST suspension 22mm front swaybar. The rack seems to be quality, but when I rotate the shaft by hand, I can feel the teeth of the rack... We will see once on ground. The ST suspension sway bar mounts are very nice and strong! Had to grind the provided shim a bit and to drill the subframe hole to fit the bigger bolt. I also had to replace the two bolts provided for longer ones... but the end result is perfect! Strong mounting and space the bar downward for about 3/8 which is perfect with a 24v! Got IE links. Nice pieces! Also got Lemforder tie rod ends.

It has been a pain to get the steering knuckle to slip on the rack shaft, but after an hour and a half and a bit ok heat, finally got it in place!

The rear got e30 konis and a 19mm bar that I had laying around. Bought IE aluminum mount and IE links... the aluminium are not that easy to fit properly, but once fitted, its looks strong. The end link was made for a round end and my sway bar is made to receive a bolt... had not noticed that before buying
... had to get some little plates laser cut to make it fit!

And that point, I was pretty happy!

[MatRacer]

Where/ how did you attach it to the body? I'm not happy with that part since it still barely touches on full lock

I welded the hose clamp that you see under the frame rail... the hose is also attached to the outer tie rod with plastic tie rap..

On my left side, my hose is a bit shorter and on full lock to the right it just barely touch to the subframe... I grinder the corner round... On the right side it doesn't touch on either side full lock.


Here are a couple more pics. But they still don't show the hose attached to the tie rod. Will try to think about it and take one more pic for you.

[2mAn]

Brake cooling setup pretty much completed! ]

Where/ how did you attach it to the body? I'm not happy with that part since it still barely touches on full lock

[MatRacer]

Brake cooling setup pretty much completed!

[ZekeTheSneak]

Not fucked up I guess but more that your diff is really strong I guess haha.

[MatRacer]

Drive shaft should not be perfectly straight. Needs to be straight from bellhousing to center support. Then angled to the diff. Also they hopefully marked the driveshaft because if you pull the two halves apart they need to go back on the same way or it will be unbalanced. I think your diff if fucked up if you are getting that wheel hop. That is not good and shouldn't happen.


Stock guibo correct? Never use a solid metal or revshifts one

Yes stock guibo... I aligned the driveshaft and it's pretty straight... I don't see how the diff could produce wheelhop when you loose grip in straight line? Or even in a turn?... by fucked up, what failure are you think of?

[MatRacer]

That's a really clean design for those backing plates.

What's the reasoning behind the fully enclosed ring (around the spindle) rather than having it open for easy removal?

Easy removal was not part of the design inputs... the intend behind the ring is to kind of seal the the inner section of the disc to really direct air flow thru the rotor inner cooling fins.

[ZekeTheSneak]

Drive shaft should not be perfectly straight. Needs to be straight from bellhousing to center support. Then angled to the diff. Also they hopefully marked the driveshaft because if you pull the two halves apart they need to go back on the same way or it will be unbalanced. I think your diff if fucked up if you are getting that wheel hop. That is not good and shouldn't happen.


Stock guibo correct? Never use a solid metal or revshifts one

[badwella]

That's a really clean design for those backing plates.

What's the reasoning behind the fully enclosed ring (around the spindle) rather than having it open for easy removal?

[MatRacer]

No more real vibration... ! Pretty happy! Back on the project! Presently building brake cooling back plate:

[MatRacer]

Got my driving back!



New bushings are also in