e30 316 build x2 (m52/m50, turbo, 3pcs bottle caps etc)

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Wow this new forum version sucks...

    Well continuing the story. Arrived at the bimmerparty and first it was time for the 700m ish speedrun. This year I got result of 234km/h which was way faster than 225km/h from last year. I also took part in AutoSlalom (AutoX) and got couple of seconds faster time. And lastly it was time for everyguys burnout competition:




    Then next day it was time for 1/4 mile drag race:


    At first run I got 12.4s because the something wasn't correct in the tune. And next run was even worse 12.7 seconds. But Finally on third run I got to elevens finally:


    So I did meet my goal for the summer.

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Continuing the story. I took the car to have wheel alingment and here's the result:
    Click image for larger version

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    So one degree of rear camber which is even degree less than the factory spec is for e30 :D

    Well few weeks of traveling for work after that and I just got time to wash and wax the car before bimmerparty:
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    There was also rumors that the track will be glued so I packed old AVON slicks with me (which aren't actually drag slicks but still)
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  • TeXJ
    replied
    again...you're an awesome person!

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  • pazi88
    replied
    My friend took that 1mm off the LSD cap:




    And now it works great! Totally silent but lot of locking when needed.

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Well I still don't think it should sound like something tries to come through the cars floor. But yeah one of the benefits of having no spare wheel well is that I can do this:


    15 minutes and LSD was out. Luckily nothing was broken, but on the other hand, I didn't see anything wrong in the LSD.


    One thing I didn't do was to check the preload, because I assumed that the 4 clutch lsd kit is bolt-on. So opened the trusty diff rebuilt document:



    Lets measure:


    The measurements were:

    B: 17mm
    C: 5mm
    A: 21.8mm

    So the whole set was 0.2mm too thick to even fit there, when it should have 0.1-0.4mm clearance. Well I need to machine down the cap to get that in spec. Correct amount would be 0.3 - 0.6mm but I said to my machinist to take down about 1mm to reduce preload little bit.

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  • econti
    replied
    Depending on what clutches they may just make noise, for example E9x M3 diffs make that groaning on hard turns, BMW did a post production service note to put some additive in that makes it quiet.
    My 4.1 medium does the same thing.

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by pandaboo911
    Diff groaning at low speed? Add friction modifier
    No just the lsd unit is crunching when turning. Not the diff itself. And BTW friction modifier is wrong way to fix broken diff that makes noises...

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  • pandaboo911
    replied
    Diff groaning at low speed? Add friction modifier

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Again weekend worked on this. And there was supposed to be "only few things that need to be finished". The wheels were first. First time that I built those, I didn't paint the inner barrels on the inside. And that was mistake, because the moisture in compressed air corroded those pretty badly and those started leaking everywhere. So I needed to remove the corrosion from inner barrels and some in the centers.

    After that the centers got painted:


    Also the barrels:


    Assembled again:




    Timelapse of that: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bxo7nAfF..._web_copy_link

    Time to put the car on lift and finish up the brakes:


    Bit short on space, but I managed to squeeze everything here.:


    Had problems getting the car running, but eventually it was just loose map hose because of the brake work. So now it runs:


    Out from garage and going for test drive:


    Brakes felt really good. Nice and firm feel and maybe only fifth of the force is required compared to previous setup. Still really easy to modulate braking force. But it was really late, so I had no time to wire in the ABS system so it's now without it. Next day it was over 100km trip to work site and it made it:


    Only problem is that the LSD is making horrible noises when maneuvering at parking lot. Maybe something wrong with the 4 disc lsd. I need to take that apart. No noises when driving straight so that side is ok.

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  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by LowR3V'in
    that's funny that the pwn works like shit. nothing is perfect i guess.
    you should of taken video.
    Well it would work with proper controller in between. For example there is cost effective jaguar unit that would work:


    Check pages 72 and 73. There is wiring diagram for that and what kind of signal it expects "FUEL PUMP MODULE CONTROL: PWM, 150 Hz, NORMAL POSITIVE DUTY CYCLE RANGE = 4% – 51%"

    But continuing the build. I stole e36 drive flanges on my other project to get the SKF driveshafts in and bolt on the swing arms:


    The GAZ shocks didn't help on the tire hop issue as much I would have hoped, so I did change those back to BC shocks. Mainly because those are too long for BC springs and those can fall out.


    Adapter for e36 rear brakes:


    Comparing to Z3 carrier:


    Installed:






    Front brakes got redstuff pads too:


    e90 booster fork for brake pedal is too wide for e30 and the pedal was way lower than clutch pedal. So I made threads for the e30 fork and got the brake pedal at level with clutch pedal:


    Installed bolt-on.


    Or not... The e36 ABS unit was seriously interfering with that so I needed to redo the bracket for that couple of times, before both could sit there in harmony. And that's what I got time to do this time.

    I wanted to get car rolling, so I dug up these old TSW EVO wheels because the bottlecaps are still unfinished:


    Even thought those are 15" the front brakes clear by a mile:


    Rear camber at zero

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    excellent.

    just asking because i too have a 450 and am scared of it over running the fpr.
    that's only 2.9psi higher, nothing... guess i was too worried in the small things.


    that's funny that the pwn works like shit. nothing is perfect i guess.
    you should of taken video.

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by LowR3V'in
    on the fuel pump i see u slowed it down at idle to give u better fuel pressure
    how did u do this? what does that table look like?

    also, could you have used an after market fuel pressure regulator for better return flow is the restriction in the lines?
    I didn't actually end up using the PWM control for the fuel pump for two reasons:

    1. The base fuel pressure is only 0,2bar higher than it should be because of the stock FPR and doesn't change from that during usage. So it was fine to tune the engine for that small offset in fuel pressure. Aftermarket FPR should fix the issue, that wasn't really issue in my case.

    2. The walbro 450lph at least makes horribly loud noise when PWM controlled directly from megasquirt. Like unbearable loud noise especially when tank is not full. There really should be actual fuel pump PWM control unit that converts the low frequency PWM (11.1-250Hz) control signal from MS to higher frequency control signal to pump (above 20kHz) so that it's beyond human hearing capabilities. Good thing that the 450lph is really quiet in the tank when used without PWM control so this PWM thing also wasn't necessary to reduce noise.

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    on the fuel pump i see u slowed it down at idle to give u better fuel pressure
    how did u do this? what does that table look like?

    also, could you have used an after market fuel pressure regulator for better return flow is the restriction in the lines?

    Leave a comment:


  • pazi88
    replied
    Originally posted by TeXJ
    you're a much smarter man than I am :D
    Originally posted by Pootis
    ^I was about to say the same thing
    :D:D

    Continuing build. Made supports for brake cooling ducts:


    Then thin coat of zinc paint for rust protection for the discs and little bit of black to match the spacers. And the front brakes went on for good:


    e36 ABS unit mounted and pipes to brakes fitted:


    Finished the ABS sensor mounts for rear swing arms and painted those:




    New e36 328 saddles for rear brakes:


    After struggling with the rear diff, I started struggling with the swing arms. I couldn't get those fit properly and I then noticed that the driveshafts are not seating properly:


    WTF skf. You did put e36 CV joints to e36 driveshafts. There is no way these will fit together:




    Well I happened to have e36 diff laying around, but still stupid thing to have wrong CV joints in driveshafts that are meant for e30.

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  • Pootis
    replied
    ^I was about to say the same thing

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