e30 316 build x2 (m52/m50, turbo, 3pcs bottle caps etc)

[MVincken]

Awesome man!

Is that 204 crank HP a fixed mark for every engine, or is it linked to nr. of cylinders & displacement?
How do they measure it, car on the dyno and then a percentage of that is your crank hp, or do you need to dismount the engine and mount it on a engine test bench?

btw, how are the bottle caps doing? ;D

[pazi88]

Awesome man!

Is that 204 crank HP a fixed mark for every engine, or is it linked to nr. of cylinders & displacement?
How do they measure it, car on the dyno and then a percentage of that is your crank hp, or do you need to dismount the engine and mount it on a engine test bench?

btw, how are the bottle caps doing? ;D

In Finland the maximum hp level that car can legally have is determined by the most powerful one in the series + 20% to it's hp level. The most powerful one in e30 series is 325i with 170 hp (the e30 m3 is different series according to the Finnish authorities) and when you add the 20% to that it equals to 204 hp. Of course you have to have same or better brakes and everything as in the most powerful car in the series.

The dyno measures the hp level from the wheels and then calculates the loss in the drive train and adds it up to the measured wheel hp and that's how you get the crack hp. I don't know how it's done in other countries but as I know all the dyno's in Finland work like that.

Bottlecaps are doing great. I just mounted new tires and I'm eager to test those if that will solve my traction problems (also the wheel alignment should be now fixed)

[pazi88]

Updates again. The videos are coming out bit too slowly to catch up the current situation wit the builds. But here is the next part of the m50 turbo build on the ONE:


Also next part to my m52 build:


Todays situation is that both cars are running and we had dyno meet last saturnday. My m52 turbo made whopping 490hp and about 600nm of torque. The engine speed information was wrong at he first pull so that's why the torque at pull #8 is wrong. The triggerwheel was falling off in pull #9 and that's why the hp number is less. But the torque should be ok in that.


Remember that I'm still running almost stock m52b28 with aluminium block and stock headbolts. Only changes are m50 connecting rods. Athenan cooperring head gasket and 240 degree / 9,7 lift cams.

The ONE made 370 hp with that 200€ Chinese turbo:

[econti]

490hp, you've got to be happy with that

[pazi88]

490hp, you've got to be happy with that

Yes I'm more than happy having 490hp in e30 that can be driven daily I have alredy driven about 1000 km since I got the engine put together. Only problem I'm having now is broken propshaft but I should get new installed this week.

[Skarpa]

Not bad at all!

[pazi88]

Here are the new episodes for the m50 build. Megasquirt settings and first start:


Some tuning and burnouts:


And then first car meet with both cars:


And some photos also:







(c) Egoman:






(c) Warjo:




(c) Luntti:

[ak-]

I've enjoy and watch all your videos as soon as they are posted.
Keep up the great work!

[efficient]

Same here I enjoy your YouTube videos. Keep up the good work. Going to subscribe to this thread

[dadsbmw]

Those bottlecaps are absolutely incredible. I was wondering why I kept my old bottlecaps around and now I know why! Truly inspirational!

[pazi88]

Updates. Finally got the shaking problem solved in my m52 turbo. The problems was in driveshaft. I had installed the center bearing wrong way around and that had jammed the front u-joint. It wasn't completely locked but only little bit stiff. But that was enough to cause serious shaking when getting the car moving.

With "new" driveshaft and new center bearing right way around, everything was solved.


Now when I could leave hard on first gear. The slow spooling of the turbo started to be annoying. I didn't had any boost control before and I was only running wastegate pressure. So the boost was basically on lowest setting possible with my setup. Because of my not so good wastegate location, the max boost was still 1 bar but it creeps up very slowly. I tried bleeder valve with 1 bar boost and with that the turbo spooled up faster but the 1 bar of boost seemed to be too much for lower rpm, because it broke traction very easily. And the power output was all or nothing. So not very usable setup. For better boost control I bought Volkswagen N75 boost controller which is used for example in 1.8T engines.


With that I could control the boost from megasquirt without any restrictions. The megasquirt ms2 is capable of controlling that out of the box using IAC1 and IAC2 outputs. Those could drive up to 2A of load but unfortunately in my KDFI unit the IAC1 is used for tacho output. The IAC2 is then used for VANOS control. The third option for boost control is js11 which is basically ignition D output. In KDFI it looks like that the js11 is connected to pin19 through sot23 w1p transistor. So that output could controll the fan relay if that would be possible in megasquirt software. I could connect the n75 to that fan relay output but the problem is that the output could drive only 100mA of load. And the n75 pulls about 400mA. To solve the problem I just connected the n75 to the engine lamda 1 connector (the connector is in good location in engine bay, unused and it can provide +12v when ignition on and there is already signal cable to the ecu). Then I soldered tip122 darlington transistor to the IGN-D output and connected it to grond and that lamda 1 signal output wire:


And with that I had the n75 electronic boost controller working. In tunerstudio I used the 19,5 hz frequnecy for the solenoid and open loop control for that which seemed to work fine on first try.

This is for example the log from my dyno pull:


So in fifth gear I have 0,2 bar boost at 2800 RPM. In practice I didn't had any boost at second gear in that point.

And this is second gear with the n75 in use:


Now I have 0,6 bar of boost at 2800 RPM which is quite good for my use. I could have more but as I said, the full boost at low RPM isn't very drive able. The open loop boost map has TPS and RPM axis so now the boost depends on the TPS position and the car is is VERY easy to control.

[pazi88]

And after I got the driveshaft and boost control sorted it was time for the main event of the summer. Bimmerparty! I will make complete video of that to YouTube but before that some written story:

All started with drifting competition at Friday. I changed some shitty tires and set the boost control maximum boost. And what a mistake it was. it started raining just minutes before my turn and those tires were the worst tires at rain what I had ever driven. They had absolutely zero traction and the high boost levels didn't help at all. And in addition to that my fuel cap started leaking again so the drifting was total failure. Here is short video how that chaos looked like:

https://youtu.be/V08btwthl7Q

So naturally I was last at the competition. My brother drove the white ONE and he had little bit better tires. So he was eventually fifth in the overall scores.





There should have been speed competition also at the Friday but it was cancelled because of heavy rain so I was going to focus the 1/4 mile next day.


I started early on the morning so I had time to lower the rear end of the car. That's because last year I had tire hopping problem and it was solved by lowering the back. And because of early start I was almost first in the line for 1/4 mile but that wasn't very good. thing because they had problems with the equipment and I had to wait long time at the start line. The tires had time to cool down and combine that to full boost settings, I lost all the traction on the second and third gear. The first gear was also total failure because I had serious problems with rear tires hopping. The time was 13.6 and 194 km/h. To compare my last year best was 13.5 and 188 km/h so the bigger hp number is clearly shown at the end speed.

For the second run I lowered boost levels on low RPM and took some air out of the tires. It didn't help on the tire hopping but I got lot more traction. The time was 13.4 and 195 km/h. I was happy that I at least beat my time from last year. But soon after that my brother made 13.0 pass with the ONE at 180 km/h end speed. So I had to make 12 second pass to beat my little brother with lot less power.



For the third pull I lowered the boost even more on low RPM, added more on the top and I tried to leave very carefully. But I managed to almost shut down the car on the line and with higher boost at the top, the AFR numbers went crazy so that pull was failure again.

It seemed like that the fourth time will be my last chance to beat my brother. So I lowered the tire pressures even more and put back the boost map from second pull. Heated the tires really good and when leaving I just shortly used first gear to prevent the tire hopping. Now the time was 12.8 with 195km/h end speed. Finally! The 60ft time was 0.6 second slower than my brother with the ONE so when I get rid of that tire hopping, i should be close to the 11s times. But here is that last pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GuGqHsHbXE





Last thing I was going to attend was Autoslalom. Or is the Autocross more familiar name :D In that I had two attempts and the first wasn't very good because I tried to drive too fast and I lost in the middle of the route. On second attempt I drove more slowly and made sure that I will drive the route without mistakes.





It felt much better and eventually the time was so good that I was on the third place:


So that was the short story about the bimmerparty. Even with all that hooning with the cars. Neither of those broke and the still work just fine.

To the end some ramdon pics I found:






I have also finished two more episodes of my m52 turbo build videos on YouTube so check those out if you haven't already:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4m6hWTCYdY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz9JQt93gA4

[econti]

So good to see them being used hard

[pazi88]

As promised, complete video of our 2016 bimmerparty:


But then:


Yes. My brother bought holset hx40 because he didn't want to lose me every time.




That doesn't have integrated wastegate so we needed one:


And then we remembered that the engine in the ONE has m52 connecting rods which I managed to bend even with hx35 so he bought these:


Then we thought that HX40 can probably provide more than 1.5bar or 20psi boost without problems and that starts to be problem for the stock head bolts. And because we have aluminium block and there is no ARP studs for that so he bought also this:


And then things started to get out of hands:




So yes we are going to build completely new engine with forged internals and let's see what 1/4 mile times we can get with that and using slicks.

[econti]

I predict a lot of broken driveshafts in your future.

This is totally where I wanted it to go :)