1995 e34 540i/6 *m60b44* - Return to Some Kind of Glory

[whitebulat22]

Like this build. Let me know if you end up wanting some heads with less rusty valves!

[marshallnoise]

Like this build. Let me know if you end up wanting some heads with less rusty valves!

You know, depending on if the heads are in good shape and don't need to be decked, I may want to take you up on that offer.

My options are this currently:

• $140 for decking and cleaning so long as the heads don't need a valve job
• $700 for decking and cleaning and valve job
• $450 for a set of re-manufactured heads that are up in Sun City (i think) and exchanging my heads.

Currently struggling with the 3 jaw puller to get the crank sprockets off each block.

[marshallnoise]

IMG_20160620_193749723_zpshba3rzxh by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Oil pump cover back on.
IMG_20160620_194257277_zpswrr7sos7 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

All that is left from the b40 block that I need is the flywheel and flywheel bolts. I need to pull it off the stand and set it on the ground to do that. But, I need to order a set of long ass Torx bits first. While making an order, I am going to get a new pilot bearing and throwout bearing. Plus I need an OSV nipple thingy that connects the drain tube to the OSV.

While waiting on that order, I will disassemble my cylinder heads and get them ready to take back to Machine Tech. If the verdict is poor, I will make a run for the Sun City heads since they are fresh.

[marshallnoise]

I pulled the cams today to get the heads over to Machine Tech. They are going to pressure test them after an initial clean. If they hold pressure then they will deck them. If they won't then they will call me and let me know what my options are.

I have some pics. Just can't be bothered to post them. Have a 9th wedding anniversary weekend get away to get away to!

[marshallnoise]

Hell's yeah! Machine shop already pressure tested and decked the heads. The revised price was $200. Seems fair to me and it's a damn sight better than $450 and a long ass drive to Sun Valley.

[marshallnoise]

Been lagging on getting pictures of progress on the interwebz.

Before I sent off the heads to the shop, I had to pull the cams. Here is one picture showing the buckets numbered and their order for the passenger side head.
IMG_20160624_093351973_zpspey6ygnv by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Driver's head.
IMG_20160624_103304721_zpssv6dbrjs by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

After work yesterday I went out and did the thing I dreaded most: Power washed the engine bay. Such a fucking messy job. Bleah!
IMG_20160628_182352081_zpss3qf6kp4 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Look how caked on that crap is. I didn't even realize it wasn't supposed to be that color.
IMG_20160628_182358033_zpso54kkmci by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Here is the other side.
IMG_20160628_182402464_zpsjafmb5fh by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I pulled my starter. Can't tell how new it is, but I will get it tested before reinstalling it.
IMG_20160628_184513622_zpsbgpjfyqd by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

And cleaned enough for me.
IMG_20160628_192113721_zpsxv9vcmxb by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I ordered my Victor Reins head bolts and they arrived the next day. That's rad.

Talked to Machine Tech and they said I should use engine assembly lube when reinstalling the cams. That should arrive next week. Then I can throw the bump sticks in and then start getting this fooker back together.

In the mean time, I managed to get all of the timing covers and rear coolant manifold pipe mating surfaces prepped and cleaned too.

I cut out the original power steering cooler lines. I have a little radiator that I pulled from my 3rd Gen 4Runner's rear heat that I am going to repurpose. I will shoot pics of that. I will also mount it somewhere where it is actually serviceable. So tired of inaccessible crap in the engine bay of this car.

Other items I need to address before getting the motor back include working with the harness by installing waterproof quick disconnect connectors for the alternator and starter non-high current leads.

Also, I want to run the power cable that usually crosses under the intake manifold from the starter to the alternator. I will probably install a terminal on the firewall that connects both items in the one spot but via separate leads. That way I can just disconnect it at the firewall instead of at either the alternator or the starter. Space is such a premium in this engine bay, I want to make servicing it easier.

I am toying with the idea of doing suspension/steering junk while I am in there too and the engine is out. I probably should. There was something else that is escaping me at the moment.

This internet is a great journal.

EDIT: I remembered! I need to pull the remainder of the exhaust off the car and cut off one stud in prep for new header pipe to H-pipe hardware. Literally, the old stuff was completely random and had all different sizes.

[marshallnoise]

Even though the block test you did turned up negative, it still sounds like you have HG issues.

Quoting because sublimination was right. He earned it.

[unrulygrace]

Engine bay looks great!

[marshallnoise]

Engine bay looks great!

Damn sight better anyway!

[marshallnoise]

Managed to get a little bit done over the holiday weekend. Pulling heads apart is easy, putting them back together...that takes time. Ha!

Passenger head after decking and some cleaning.
IMG_20160703_130427022_zps6bhhkbjf by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

After I cleaned a bunch of carbon off the valves and combustion chambers. This is time consuming and difficult to not totally destroy the mating surface. I used steel wheels on the valves and nylon wheels on the combustion chamber. Inevitably you scuff a mating surface. I will likely take a 1000 grit wet sand paper to it before install.
IMG_20160703_141508706_zpsjtrru2yf by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Added copious quantities of assembly lube.
IMG_20160703_145300092_zpso4gdedcw by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Got them torqued back together. Easiest method was rotating the cams so most of the lobes are facing up and then very evenly go 1/4 turn on each nut until you reach your specified torque value. Mine was 11 ft/lbs.
IMG_20160703_153022757_zpsu6mtp8y5 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Here is the driver's head with the nastiness. I am not going to be able to get to this until Saturday, maybe. So I am leaving it out under shade but in the warm sun with wheel bearing grease in the chambers to see if that will loosen up some of the junk that is etched on there.
IMG_20160705_204205791_zpsjo2kccqz by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

[Dj Buttchug]

your guy didn't pull the valves before decking it? no new valve seals?

[marshallnoise]

your guy didn't pull the valves before decking it? no new valve seals?

Nope. Unfortunately not. He charged me $200 for the job he did. The pressure test came back good and I don't want to sink more cash into these heads if I don't have to. Lazy, cheap, both.

Edit: I don't even want to do this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIR-CYQ6zIA

[Dj Buttchug]

damn. I'm worried, but hopefully it works. This build you have going is quite the work load.

[marshallnoise]

damn. I'm worried, but hopefully it works. This build you have going is quite the work load.

Yeah, I thought about it. I have a whole other set of m62 heads that are complete that I could rob valves from if I want to. I know my valve springs are better than m62 springs. I asked the machinist about the valve guides and he said that if the thing pressure tested fine and I don't want to pay $700 for a valve job, then just run with them. I don't believe that m60s have many valve guide failures...

This is quite a project.

[unrulygrace]

Managed to get a little bit done over the holiday weekend. Pulling heads apart is easy, putting them back together...that takes time. Ha!

Passenger head after decking and some cleaning.


After I cleaned a bunch of carbon off the valves and combustion chambers. This is time consuming and difficult to not totally destroy the mating surface. I used steel wheels on the valves and nylon wheels on the combustion chamber. Inevitably you scuff a mating surface. I will likely take a 1000 grit wet sand paper to it before install.


Added copious quantities of assembly lube.


Got them torqued back together. Easiest method was rotating the cams so most of the lobes are facing up and then very evenly go 1/4 turn on each nut until you reach your specified torque value. Mine was 11 ft/lbs.


Here is the driver's head with the nastiness. I am not going to be able to get to this until Saturday, maybe. So I am leaving it out under shade but in the warm sun with wheel bearing grease in the chambers to see if that will loosen up some of the junk that is etched on there.

I'll give you a hand Saturday morning ;)