Project Armo "330i" M-tech 1

[Vincenze]

Could you share ideas about ideal installation of a 6-speed transmission?

• What is the shifter carrier length? Is 140 mm correct?
• What is a compatible clutch slave cylinder? A E36 one as newer ones have a different pipe connector?
• Will a dual-mass flywheel and clutch for the E46 330i be comfortable for daily use?
• Will the combination of the front part of the 2003-2005 European E46 320d drive shaft plus the rear part of the E30 drive shaft work? The E46 320d came with the GS6-37.
• What is the ideal shifter?

[Skarpa]

Could you share ideas about ideal installation of a 6-speed transmission?

• What is the shifter carrier length? Is 140 mm correct?
• What is a compatible clutch slave cylinder? A E36 one as newer ones have a different pipe connector?
• Will a dual-mass flywheel and clutch for the E46 330i be comfortable for daily use?
• Will the combination of the front part of the 2003-2005 European E46 320d drive shaft plus the rear part of the E30 drive shaft work? The E46 320d came with the GS6-37.
• What is the ideal shifter?

I only have experience of this one 6-speed swap but I'll try to give you answers the best I can.

- I just made the carrier to fit and didn't measure it or if I did, I didn't write it down. But 140 mm and 96 mm sound about right. I wanted to line up the shifter perfectly and to do that I needed to make the link bar slightly staggered:

https://anttikarppinen.kuvat.fi/kuva...jpg?img=medium

https://anttikarppinen.kuvat.fi/kuva...jpg?img=medium

In that kit the link bar seems to be straight. That will rotate the the shifter slightly. Probably doesn't matter.

- I think I used the E90 330i clutch cylinder that came with the transmission. I had the older style metal one with a threaded connection but confusingly the the later plastic one with a different kind of connection seems to have the same part number: 21526785964. I hate when BMW does this bullshit. E90 330i clutch cylinder diameter is 22.2 mm and the E36 328i has diameter of 20.64. Smaller diameter will change the clutch feel. For E46 I couldn't find information about diameter.

- GS6-37BZ/DZ has different splines on the clutch shaft than older BMW. It uses slightly larger shaft with 22 splines rather than the 10 spline shat that's more common previously. So if you get an E46 330i clutch, be sure to get the 6-speed version. I used LUK 641110710 which is OE-quality aftermarket clutch that you can usually find pretty affordably. That plus a dual mass flywheel will be very comfortable.

- E30 and E36 have very similar distance from the back of the engine to the diff. Therefore E36 drive shafts work well in E30s. I think in E46 this distance is longer. So the combination you're thinking may or may not work. I used E36 iA drive shaft.

- As you saw, I had a slight fitment issue with the shifter but otherwise I like it. If the shifter carrier kit you posted is made for E30 I suggest you ask the manufacturer or seller which shifter they recommend to use with it because there may be fitment issues with a shifter that's too long under the ball. I guess likely candidates would be Z3-2.8/3.0, Z4 3.0, E36 328i, E90 330 or other similar levers.

[Skarpa]

Some time ago I made a writeup on 6-speed swap on a Finnish forum. I'll attach here a google translation of that. Usually google doesn't handle technical terms very well so I'll check it and edit it better later when I have time. If something doesn't make sense, ask.

"
These things have been asked by several people, so I was thinking of making an instruction to connect a 6-speed GS6-37BZ or GS6-37DZ transmission to an M50 or M52 engine. My own knowledge mainly concerns the E30 model, but the same tasks apply mostly to the E36 model and to others. If you find something to be corrected or supplemented, then tell me. Many times you hear that the transmission is bolt-on, but there are quite a few small tweaks and things to consider.

Some information about the transmission. The GS6-37 is a 6-speed gearbox made by ZF. The BZ version can be found in the E46 330i 6-speed model and many newer BMWs with N5X engined, among others. The DZ version, on the other hand, is standard on newer 4-cylinder diesels until replaced by an automatic transmission. These versions differ in the gear ratios of the low gears and the angle of the clutch housing flange. The M5X and N5X have a tilt angle of 30 degrees from the vertical and diesels (as well as the M20) have a tilt angle of 20 degrees from the vertical. Thus, there is a 10 degree difference in the inclination of the flanges and the DZ box, when bolted to a M5X machine, becomes 10 degrees oblique.

Gear ratios:
GS6-37DZ: 5.14, 2.83, 1.79, 1.26, 1.00, 0.85.
GS6-37BZ: 4.32 2.46 1.66 1.23 1.00, 0.85

Note! There are small differences in gear ratios between different models. The four-letter code following the gearbox model indicates the more specific model.

For comparison, the S5D-320Z, ie the often used 5-speed ZF, which can be found in the E36 328i, for example:
4.20, 2.49, 1.66, 1.24, 1.00

The gear ratios of the petrol version are thus close to the same as in 5-speed and the sixth gear is overdrive. In the diesel box, on the other hand, gears 1-3 are much shorter and only the fifth and sixth are the same as in the BZ.


Necessary changes when adapting to an M5X engine:
Link to my own image folder with images related to transmission fitting. https://anttikarppinen.kuvat.fi/kuva...+transmission/


Clutch housing flange:
Four large bolts that bolt to the block and the starter motor position fit directly. The smaller bolts connecting to the oil sump may be in different locations depending on the origin of the transmission and oil sump. They can be drilled with new holes in either the clutch housing or the oil sump. I drilled into the clutch housing myself.


Pilot Bearing:
The clutch shaft is shorter in the GS6 box than in older bmw boxes. In newer BMWs the pilot gearing is housed in the flywheel, not the crankshaft. The clutch shaft extends only a few millimeters into the pilot bearing housing in the crankshaft., so it doesn't reach the pilot bearing mounted to normal depth.There are three possible solutions to this:

1. Buy a flywheel with a housing for the pilot bearing. The bearing is a needle bearing type and has a part number of 21207536792. It usually seems to come with the flywheel.
2. Make and adapter in a lathe for the end of the crankshaft that has a housing for the aforementioned needle bearing.
3. Use a wider than standard 13mm ball bearing as the pilot bearing and install it with bearing glue so that it extends 3-5 mm out of the crankshaft bearing housing. The bearing model is 63002-2RS. Note, on some crankshafts, the pilot bearing housing is looser at the and and only narrows down deeper. In such a crankshaft, this solution cannot be used.

Flywheel:
Because the clutch shaft is shorter, it is not possible to use a flat hard flywheel with these boxes, such as the M20 model, but the flywheel must be a dual-mass version or made to such dimensions. The M52B28 standard dual mass wheel is suitable if the pilot bearing is on the crankshaft. 228-millimeter flywheels such as the M52B25 or M50B25 are also suitable in principle, but finding a clutch plate can be a headache. If you want to use a flywheel with pilot bearing, it can be found, for example, in models E46 330i 6-spd, or X3 6-spd (par no. 21207533868).


Clutch:
The splines of the clutch shaft of the GS6-37 box is of the type 26.5x29-22N, i.e. 22-groove fine splines. So different from the 10-groove used in older boxes. (and different from the larger 6-year box, GS6-53) The clutch plate must be selected accordingly. A mere stodck friction plate from a marble counter costs unreasonably. Here are my own suggestions for different types of solutions:

Standard friction plate and pressure plate: Luk 641110710
Can be found at its best very successfully. Cheaper than just a friction plate at dealer. The assembly is self-adjusting (SAC), meaning it must be kept tensioned or prestressed if removed and reused. It has its own tools for it, but reportedly a big puller works. This set is almost worth buying, even if you only need a friction plate.

SRE mass plate: 981864-999515

Hard flywheel, sprung Clutch plate and still life: Valeo 835101
The flywheel is made with the dimensions of a dual mass wheel and of the same weight. The set is very affordable at best and I would think that by lightening the pace a good blank for NA tuning. Just a plate and a still life with the number 828511

Durable sprung plate for turbo use: GS6-37 ACT sprung Clutch plate 240mm

Sinter plates can be found easily well when you search by clutch shaft diameter and amount of splines

Other pressure plates and friction plates can be found, of course. The bolt pitch of the M54B30 setup is the same as the M52B28 and the Clutch Plate is the same thickness. 240 mm switches are best found due to splines.


Thrust bearing:
There may be slight differences between these. My own transmission is from an E90 and the E46 330i thrust bearing did not fit over the clutch shaft sleeve. I had to use an E90 bearing.


Shifter linkages:
Parts of any model do not fit directly into an E30 or E36 body. Best bet is to either buy some aftermarket kit or modify the stock parts. The shifter carrier and connecting rod must be shortened quite a lot and a small correction must be made laterally so that the shifter fits the hole correctly. When using a DZ box, due to the angle difference of the transmission, more bends must be made to the linkages. Note that the rear end of the transmission is so far back that the lower eye of the shifter may catch on the bolt heads of the front end of the drive shaft.


Transmission rear cross member:
The GS6-37 is about 105 mm longer than the S5D-320Z. The cross member needs to be modified. In tge body there are suitable slots for the cross member because automatic transmissions are longer. But the height is different from the stock slots for the manual transmission. Modifying the cross member is quite a small operation. Make sure that the outlet flange of the transmission points exactly towards the support bearing so that the guibo is not subjected to tension. The position error of the DZ box must of course be taken into account.


Rubber Guibo:
The GS6-37 boxes use the same "big" flex disc with a 96mm bolt ring as the 5-year ZF, ie 26117511454


Drive shaft:
With regard to the drive shaft there are a few options in the E30 (and E36) body: E36 325iA or, for example, 328i drive shaft. The 325iA drive shaft has a large guibo and is about 140 mm shorter than the 328i drive shaft. The length of the GS6-37BZ box is 635 mm and the length of the S5D 320Z box is 530 mm. Since the length difference of the boxes is only 105 mm, the center joint is left for a much shorter distance to its splines. In the E36 body, the splines overlap 22.5mm. In the E30 body with the E36 engine mounts the distance between the box and the diff is a little shorter and the middle joint overlaps about 30 mm.

In a more powerful turbo car, I would modify a longer drive shaft, so it gets the optimum length and the splines are properly nested. In the E30 body, the PTO center bearing must be replaced with an E30. Note, buy by year model because there are two models: central and eccentric.

Information about drive shafts of E36 models:
E36 325i: 26111227445, 1512 mm, small guibo
E36 328i: 26111227283, 1492 mm, large guibo
E36 325iA: 26111227003, 1355 mm, large guibo
E36 328iA: 26111227441, 1345 mm, large guibo or 26111227376, 1211 mm big guibo (maybe. I don't know which box this short universal joint is in use with)
E36 M3 3.0 Euro: 26112227222, 1469 mm, large guibo, CV joint
E36 M3 3.2 Euro: (6-year Getrag manual): 26112227975 or later 26112228805, 1367 mm, large guibo, CV joint

The lengths are nominal lengths with the designed position of the center joint. I’m not one hundred percent sure if the rubber guibo is included in the measure. At least you can see the differences in length between the different drive shafts.

The E36 M3 3.2 Euro drive shaft might fit well if the rear joint or stern flange was replaced
"

[Vincenze]

- E30 and E36 have very similar distance from the back of the engine to the diff. Therefore E36 drive shafts work well in E30s. I think in E46 this distance is longer. So the combination you're thinking may or may not work. I used E36 iA drive shaft.

Thank you very much.

You say that your E36 drive shaft is slightly short.

The E30 and E46 have the same orientation of the drive shaft halves. The front part is male.
Every E30 has an E30 drive shaft anyway, so the rear part is available.

I find drive shafts like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144170881841

[Skarpa]

Thank you very much.

You say that your E36 drive shaft is slightly short.

The E30 and E46 have the same orientation of the drive shaft halves. The front part is male.
Every E30 has an E30 drive shaft anyway, so the rear part is available.

I find drive shafts like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144170881841

Yes, the E36 325iA is a tad short. The steel parts overlap about 30 mm when you'd want it to be about 60 mm. When you add up the plastic washer and the threaded collar, that would leave about 20 to 30 mm to spare for movement of the engine and the rear axle. The difference in E36 and E46 drive shaft lengths seems to be about 70 mm based on the lengths given in ETK but I have no verified information on this. I also don't know if the E46 rear piece is the same or different length as the E30 one. But if you try out the E46 drive shaft or have any more accurate information, please tell me. I'm always interested to learn more.

[Vincenze]

You can try to use the E36 M3 giubo 26112226527. It's 5mm thicker.

I found this thread https://www.e30club.ru/forum/index.p...140858.75.html
I tried to ask the guy about the dimensions, but he replied that he didn't do the job himself.

It's the GS6-37DZ with the 318 engine, that's why the shifter carrier is twisted.



He used the E46 6-speed 320d front and the E30 rear.

[Vincenze]

I also found this thread https://www-btcf-fi.translate.goog/f..._pto=ajax,elem

[Skarpa]

I also found this thread https://www-btcf-fi.translate.goog/f..._pto=ajax,elem

:D Yeah, that's me. I put a bit tidied up translation of the writeup in this thread a few posts up.

And to be clear about the shortness of the 325 iA drive shaft: So far it poses no problems and I don't expect it to. If the drive shaft was overlapping more, it would be stronger but I don't expect it to break with an NA engine.

The E46 330i front piece seems like an interesting option if a little bit pricy. You could also have a longer drive shaft shortened to exact length. In the photos above it looks like splines are overlapping almost completely if not completely. There should be a little bit of movement left. Otherwise during a hard acceleration when the rear subframe is pushed forward by the rear wheels the drive shaft may bottom out and bind the needle bearings which promises short life for the universal joint. But as said it doesn't show clearly in the photos. There may well be enough free play.

E46 automatic transmission front piece would probably work with E30 rear piece as well. The front piece seems to be 40 mm shorter than in the 6-speed drive shaft.

[Vincenze]

Also, people combine the front part of a Z4 drive shaft (I think a manual E85) with the rear part of an E36 drive shaft.

The E46 330i front piece is very different from the E46 320d one.

[Skarpa]

Last week I took the car to dyno again. It was still not quite success:

Under 3000 rpm everything is all right but then the torque starts to twindle rapidly where as in a mildly tuned M52 it should stay about the same until 5500-6000 rpm. When you compare it with my previous dyno sheet it's clear that something's changed between these two




In this one the revs are 150% of what they should be and in reality the pull only went up to around 5000 rpm but the shape of the torque curve is what it's supposed to be. I haven't yet had time to investigate further but I need to run some logs, check the compression and cam timing etc. The torque graph almost looks like something is constantly throttling the engine. The higher it revs, tha lower the torque ie. cylinder filling drops. I ordered an E36 328i Supersprint front section for the exhaust just in case. Otherwise my exhaust is quality stuff but the front resonator and the cats are from a stock aftermarket exhaust for an E36 328i and their build quality wasn't very impressive. I don't really really believe in that but some sort of restriction in the exhaust system would explain this kind of behaviour.

Apart from the lack of torque on higher revs the engine feels and sounds healthy and the AFR is what it's supposed to be. Nothing feels like the car is going instantly fall apart so I continue driving it daily and it always puts a smile on my face.






PS. For shits and giggles I tried monetizing my Youtube channel. In a matter of a week I earned 2 dollars. I decided that was quite enough and removed ads from my vids.

[Skarpa]

I've been annoyed by the fact that my trunk lock didn't work by central locking. You could open and close the other locks using it but the trunk lock wouldn't lock or open by central locking. After a little research the reason turned out to be that my locks are not central locking type. Even though there's a connecting point for the lock motor link on the lock, the motor cannot turn the lock. I think you can get new locks from the dealership keyed to your own key according to the VIN number but that wouldn't help me because the locks are not originally from this car. Instead I bought the repair kit 51249061785. It's called a repair kit but it actually includes the full lock with lock body and everything and enough tumblers to key it to any key you want.



Now the lock works fine. If someone's interested in the actual process of keying and assembling the lock I made a Youtube video on that. The same basic principles apply to door locks and ignition lock as well. I think the door locks have a few extra tumblers of a different type for the deadbolt functionality.

VIDEO

[burkey001]

that is a very interesting torque curve. Do you understand what's happening for that to happen? Driveability must be a bit compromised?
Interested to know your troubleshooting approach, sometimes these things can be very frustrating
What do your AFR's look like across that same graph?
What's your total advance look like across the rev range at that load point?
Have you done any partial throttle runs to understand if its a WOT issue?

[Skarpa]

We didn't do any partial throttle pulls in dyno. It was a quick wot pull. (or actually two). The guy at the dyno doesn't have software for adjusting maps on Siemens ECU and neither do I (yet). Driveability is obviously compromised because of lack of torque but if you look at the scale, the problem is exaggerated here. The power still grows fairly linearly except for the dip before vanos switch point. but the car is missing grunt. AFR should be fine (for E85):



After the dyno I installed Testo on my computer and ran some logs. After consulting Pazi88 it seems it's an advance issue. For some reason I have really low advances especially between 2500-5500. Also the vanos switch point should probably be at least 500 rpm lower to keep the torque dip lower.

I also noticed that when I let off the throttle, there was this rattling coming from the exhaust like a small rock was rattling around there. That was the final thing that sparked me into buying a Supersprint front section to replace the last mild steel section in the exhaust system (poorly made 328i aftermarket exhaust that I used for the cat and resonators). Installing it required some cutting and welding beause I've tailor fitted the E36 exhaust system into an E30. I hope to finish the work today. The reason for the rattling wasn't anything serious, however. One of the O2 sensors had lost the thin steel protective cup from the tip and it was rattling around in the exhaust. The sensor still works.

[Glaede]

VIDEO

Great video! I'm gonna use that later on. I'm also installing central locking in a non-central locking car. Was it easy enough to install a complete central locking? I have the wiring, actuators, door wiring, relay ect. So I think I have a complete set.

[Skarpa]

Great video! I'm gonna use that later on. I'm also installing central locking in a non-central locking car. Was it easy enough to install a complete central locking? I have the wiring, actuators, door wiring, relay ect. So I think I have a complete set.

Thanks! You also need central locking type door locks. (not the key locks but the actual latch thingies tha hold the doors shut) They need to have connecting points for the actuators. You can use non-central locking type door key locks but leave the micro switches for deadbolt function unconnected because they won't work correctly with non-central locking locks. Otherwise it sounds you have what you need. Installation isn't that difficult but you may need some reference photos to get everything in correct places.