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Soooo, I'm still lost on the inner ball joints on the front control arms.
The inner balljoint is a story of its own to. The bolt and nuts are just spinning in the joint. The taper must've been nocked loose when I tried to hammer outer joint or something. Has anyone any idea to what I should do next? Cut it between the joint and taper? I tried putting pressure on the joint with a jack - does nothing.
What do I do? I can't cut the nut from the top because of the lack of space. Cutting it from below will still leave the taper part in there. Hmm...
A nut chrusher maybe? It'll be a tight fit if so.
Most e30s don't have vented rear rotors, so that trick would not work super well.
Nice progress! Why a touring base for rally?
Ah! You're right. Guess the IX spec worked in my favor for once ;)
So, first of all I just really like the Touring. I like estates in general. The fairly slanted rear window gives it a fairly sporty look I think.
Second, I figured it would be fairly practical since, Rally'ing of any sorts always require to haul lots of stuff to the race location. I'll definitely be carrying a second set of wheels for starters. The penalty is not that great weightwise so I figured it would be better than hauling a trailer, which would also limit our speed on the highway from 130 to 90 kph.
Third, there aren't a lot of decent e30's left on sale for cheap money. I wanted a M20b25 ideally and the IX spec just caught my eye. I though; well its a little more expensive to maintain but 4wd and rally go together pretty well right? :D
Forth, my other hobby is cycling. More specifically, cyclocross, which require a bit of space when going to races and such. A car like this comes in handy when bringing along a couple of mates.
Also, I seems like 325IX Touring is kind of a cool car. I've seen good examples on sale for 15-25k euro in germany! I paid 3!
So unless I fuck it up completely it should still be a decent deal.
and terrific work so far. rear subframe restoration takes time! be sure to check all your brake and fuel lines for corrosion. It is very simple to bend out your own replacement lines if needed.
OEM+ or bust! reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30 e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
Soooo, I'm still lost on the inner ball joints on the front control arms.
What do I do? I can't cut the nut from the top because of the lack of space. Cutting it from below will still leave the taper part in there. Hmm...
A nut chrusher maybe? It'll be a tight fit if so.
put a jack up under the ball to keep the taper planted in the subframe, then take the nut off the normal way.
OEM+ or bust! reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30 e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
Have you soaked the threads with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster? A little heat from a propane torch may help as well, but be careful with oil catching fire. You may have to use an impact driver
OEM+ or bust! reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30 e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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