Just took it to bimmertech down here in orlando, FL. They adjusted the valves and did a smoke test. Smoke test came out fine, but they said I needed to take out the head and get it machined because despite the adjusted valves it still isnt functioning properly. Considering it would be 1200 of labor, Im desperate to figure out how I should go about this the best way. Also, im trying to figure out how badly ill hurt the engine to keep running it the way it is. At idle, the engine seems to be bouncing around a bit which makes me nervous.
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Are they talking about having the valves cut/replaced or do they suspect the head is warped? Didn't they try any other diagnostic tests besides a smoke test? Do you know if the engine ever overheated?Originally posted by Jdub View Post
It's safe to drive with a bouncing idle - maybe see if somebody will let you try a good idle control valve or afm or O2 sensor. If the shop thinks the head needs to come off then I'd just keep an eye on the oil and coolant. Maybe try running some injector cleaner through the fuel system?Comment
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Have to agree with a couple of others on here... you guys are paranoid :DOriginally posted by McGyver View Post
My Dad put the 2.0L M20 from my car into his & forgot to change the timing belt (he'd done it on his previous engine, and his memories blended together & he thought he'd done the belt). He then drove it around for 4 years before the tensioner finally let go - fortunately he heard a funny noise and stopped driving. The belt didn't skip, but when he took the belt off, the tensioner fell apart and the belt was so brittle and cracked, I couldn't believe it was still in one piece & he couldn't believe a 4 year old belt could look like that, then he realised he didn't change the belt.
We looked back through the service records of my car and found the belt was already 8 years old before he swapped the engine into his car so the belt lasted 12 years, and had done around 180,000kms.
Anyway - back to current part of the thread. M20s can have a bit of a lumpy idle, and if the valves are adjusted correctly it shouldn't do much damage to drive as is. As others have suggested, keep a careful eye on the oil and coolant and see how it goes.Last edited by lukeADE335i; 06-19-2016, 05:49 AM.Comment
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They said something about having to machine the head because the valves were not sealing properly which was causing a rough idle, ticking/missing. As far as I know the engine has never overheated. This morning after a short drive I went to start it up again and it almost didnt turn over. The guy at the shop adjusted the valves with a feeler gauge. From what I understand its hard to get a great adjustment by hand, and its preferably better to use a spring tool?
When I first bought it, it wasnt ticking or shaky at idle, only after the valve adjustments came into play did the engine start having trouble, so maybe its just bad adjustments.
I assume a dry/wet compression test will reveal a lot about the condition of the head?
Also: If Im currently saving up to boost the car, would it be wise to get head machines and re-done anyway, with the stronger headgaskets/copper o-rings and things of that nature?Last edited by Jdub; 06-19-2016, 06:05 AM.Comment
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my idle is mildly lumpy, which i happen to like, and my head was rebuilt
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Gotcha, the bigger problem is there is a pretty signficant ticking. The more ive been driving it the more my ear is picking up on it. Also, I hear what seems to be an occasional knock which really makes me nervous.Comment
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i have ticking also, but the knock is what would make me nervous as well.Comment
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When does the knocking happen?
Ticking is pretty normal. These cars are supposed to sound like sewing machines. As long as your valves are adjusted properly, youre good to go.
Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk(OO=[][]=OO) For LifeComment
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ticking is normal, lumpy idle is normal. Our cars aren't like modern cars. The tech you spoke with may not know a lot about 30 year old German cars.
When you said it almost didn't turn over, do you mean it cranked for a long time before it started? Or it cranked really slowly?
it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheelsComment
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The knock it slight and sporadic, I have to listen very closely for it, it may be something else that sounds similar but isn't really in the engine.
It cranked up at regular speed, just took a little longer to start.
My concern is that the ticking/shaking wasn't evident before the valve adjustment and new timing belt, and now its more pronounced. (Also the timing belt squeals a little bit when I start it up cold. I think this might be because its too tight?? Is my engine gonna blow up from the belt being too tight or am I ok?)
Since I just got some extra cash I was thinking about taking the summer to invest in machining the head, resealing everything that needs to be resealed, and maybe doing the o-ring on the head and a new head gasket. Im still researching, but I definitely want to boost as soon as I can so it might be worth while. Any advice on that front?Comment
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Prob not your timing belt screaming, prob your accessory beltsComment
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squealing on startup is your accessory belts.
For your valve ticking, I think it's a case of you just didn't notice it before since the car was new to you.
as far as turboing your motor, grab an m30 and turbo that
it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheelsComment
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Wouldn't that cost me more to buy a new motor plus all the required parts for a turbo build? I was hoping to start of with something smaller and more reasonable like a Garrett t3 or something. This is my DD so it most likely wont see the track anytime soon.Originally posted by Das Delfin View PostComment
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What would cause it to crank for a long time before it starts? Alternator and starter have been replaced.Originally posted by Das Delfin View PostComment
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