'90 325i S52 to S54 '06 Z4M w/ ZF 6 Speed

[cwlo]

Just read through the build right now. Very nice job!



You didn't mention why you abandoned the MK60 ABS?


Also, you listed a 3.71 lsd with the 6 speed. I ran that combo, and 1st was pretty useless. Give it some thought before comitting to a rebuilt diff.

[R3Z3N]

Well, the leak happened to be the heater core. Ordered. Crawled under the car to do some final checks and the custom DSSR (which I need to measure for OP DIY) had a temp bolt stuck through it, and my mechanic forgot to install, so ordered a replacement pin and shim set from UUC. In the mean time, fixed my seat shocks.

But I will get a measurement for the 6MT DSSR linkage. UPDATE: Measured at 4.5in, 11.5cm Going to be selling the AKG DTM shifter and installing this instead:
RTD also has a lockout (IE reverse and 1-2 and 1-3 end slop adjustment) but it's about 70% more and out after Xmas.

[R3Z3N]

Fuel pump was good, the wiring in the fuel pump assembly cracked. Easy! Resoldered and replaced with new pump anyway.

Got the interior done. YAY!!

Filled the Power Steering and Coolant. There is a coolant leak that drips off the back of the trans driver side. Guessing the heater core lines are different sizes. Want to confirm. Didn't see the top of the trans wet at that location, but I didn't take the airbox off to confirm.

Check engine light and custom guages in the dash are dim as well. Guessing my splice at the aux fuse box is suspect (wiring was very hard to tin) or the 18ga wiring is too long. Tried a different ground spot to no avail, but that can be fixed later.

Next weekend, find the source of the leak, bleed the brakes, fill the trans, put front end on and a few more small to-dos. Biggest one to set me back will the the coolant leak as that will most likely be ordering another line and taking the airbox off again to fix. Don't know where else it can leak as the carpet isn't wet at the heater core and all rubber/lines are new.

Sorry no pics, maybe next weekend. I keep working till dark when pics are horrible.

[R3Z3N]

^Just buttoning up now, a few setbacks as always such as fuel pump failing. Not happy with the mess above the glovebox, but I will fix that later.

As to the CAN board, the digital outs just get grounded when triggered which he can set for you depending on what can messages you want to utilize from the DME. Digital out 1 is set to ground the Check engine light to turn it on. 2 is set to trigger an additional fan relay.

I do agree about using a puller, I believe 2 smaller fans will fit, but wise to use a shroud. So far I am just using a SPAL 16" pusher as you see in my OP, and I have the rubber shroud pushing right up against the AC condenser, but air will still not be forced thorugh the radiator. We shall see if I need to modify that.

If you need a little help, I can PM you my number.

[masterofnone]

Thanks for the info!

I figured the first and believe I got Gpetersens controller with Andrews harness. Just need to figure out how to wire the E46 controller and how to use the board in general...

It would be nice to use a puller fan in addition to the E30 aux. but I really have no clue how this board works so far as I haven’t gotten there quite yet.

Are you still building your car or just deciding about the PWM?

[R3Z3N]

@masterofnone
1) Running both as one reports to the DME for running conditions, the E30 temp sensor signal goes to the cluster.

2) For the PWM fan to work correctly, you will need the E46 AC pressure sensors and use gtpetersens CAN board to utilize the PWM fan module. I am currently undecided but leaning toward no PWM module. We shall see, there are a few on ebay for ~$80 right now

[masterofnone]

Very detailed write ups here, nice job.

Questions:
1) Do you still have to run the E46M coolant temp sensor in the coolant pipe on the block or can I switch it out for the E30 sensor that connects to Andrew's harness? Or do I need both?

2) For the PWM fan temp sensor does it have to be in the lower radiator hose or can I put it in the coolant pipe mentioned above?

[parkerbink]

Amazing build! Great documentation and really inspiring!

[Staszek]

I used an Aeromotive pump on mine. Walbro 255 seems like it used to be the goto for pretty much every platform but I've heard of too many failures. I think the real issue is that there are a ton of knockoffs finding their way into the market that are being sold as legit Walbros.

I was back and forth on the Walbro, I decided to go with the OE E46 pump just to not deal with any issues. More expensive but figured why not.

[R3VM3UP]

I used an Aeromotive pump on mine. Walbro 255 seems like it used to be the goto for pretty much every platform but I've heard of too many failures. I think the real issue is that there are a ton of knockoffs finding their way into the market that are being sold as legit Walbros.

[R3Z3N]

Well after diving in after no start (crank, a few fires and off) looks like its my fuel pump. 2nd on this car. Looks like I will be replacing my Walbro 255 again! Verified on accessory on, that the pump wiring got power for ~2 seconds, but when applying 12v direct to the pump...nothing. Yay. Easy at least as I already have the modifications done for the pump.

Other than that, hoped to get more work done but a friend wanted help replacing the front suspension of is Z4. Could not get any of my spring compressors (screw type) to compress the srping enough as its only a ~4 coil trapezoidal spring. Could only grab 2 coils which wasn't enough. I HATE stock suspension.... Ended up saying no, get a tow and have a shop do it with a pneumatic spring compressor, I can't have 2 cars in my driveway non-op. Other parties would not like that. Wasted the entire day on that. So, I am done for the weekend.

Lookinf for suggestions for 10-12 guage 3 pin connector for my spal fan wiring. Thinking Deutsch connector but having a hell of a time finding a crimping tool that works for 10-12 guage that isn't $200+

[R3Z3N]

^Thanks. I hated how all the info was so cryptic and or hidden, or even seemingly kept secret.

BTW, should anyone need, I am willing to help over the phone/email or even remotely. Maybe someday I will double check the hex locations for all major versions, but these 2 are the most common in the states. Feel free to edit the xdf for anything other major (IE I will add throttle curves) or for versions I have yet to release for the swaps. I do know the 6MT vs SMG has a little more modification than just the gearing observations and setting, but supposedly it's for drivability. Still, if I can find the values and locations I will add that as well.

[FredK]

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

[R3Z3N]

Located in first post: Updated the MSS54/HP zip with DTCs to disable. Use Tuner Pro to view the categories. All software included in zip if needed to edit and flash and what is needed to modify your ODB2 FTDI cable as needed to work. With it you have everything needed to get the car running. EWS delete, DTCs, speedo, cruise etc....

[R3Z3N]

EPIC. love the glove box mounted OBD port and sport mode switch
that gauge cluster..
incredible work man! the community should thank you SOOOO much for all the pics and documentation!

Appreciated! More pics to come to help others that might want simple like me.