In November, I finally got the car on the track for the first time. As I mentioned during the autocross, oil temps were high but I foolishly thought it was either a problem with the gauge, or the sender was getting heat soaked by the aluminum sandwich plate. I did notice that throughout the day my oil pressures were going up each session, and my temps were maxing out the gauge by about 5 laps in (280*F). Also, my rear main seal was leaking and it got worse throughout the day. It got to the point that my clutch was slipping.
The motor was strong all day and the car felt awesome. The suspension upgrades I had done versus the BRG car made a huge difference. I had a blast and couldn't wait to get back.
The turbo 'yata ran as well. We thought he put a hole in the block because he dumped all his oil on the track. It turns out he just popped on of his oil cooler lines off. That stock 1.6 block will never die.








The following weekend I changed the oil and quickly realized my temps really were that high. The oil was like glittery water. Looks like I cooked it! There were shavings in the filter as well.
Since the temps were ALWAYS high even since I installed this motor, I think it had a pre-existing rod bearing issue. I definitely did it in by tracking it with the issue, but I don't think I caused it in the ~200 miles I put on this motor before pulling it. After I saw the oil, the car got driven one more time to a meet nearby at Road N Race. Then I pulled the motor out.





Before I had too much time to think about my course of action, I found a good deal on the r3v Facebook for an M20B25 w/ a cam and accessories, and I snatched that up. About a month after I pulled the motor, I had this one freighted down from New York. I swapped over as much as I could from the recently refreshed motor that had just come out. I did new gaskets and everything again on this motor as well. It wasn't that pretty on the outside, but it cleaned up well. The internals looked excellent, which is all that mattered to me.


Started swapping parts over between the two.


Installed a new FX Stage 2 clutch (6 puck ceramic, sprung) and JB Racing 8lb aluminum flywheel this time around. The ceramic coated headers still looked like new.


Dropped the new motor in.



This time around, the first startup went without a hitch. This thing sounds incredible with the 284/272 cam. I'll post up videos at a later time.

The parts car was really well picked over at this point, so we hoisted it out and junked the shell.





Due to the long tube headers, I had extended my O2 sensor wiring. I was getting an intermittent CEL (lambda control). Turns out one of the wires had pulled out. I ended up replacing it with a MUCH longer E34 M50 O2 sensor so I didn't have to have a splice in it anymore.

So back when I was pulling the wiring harness out of the engine bay for paint, I stripped one of the rusted-in front bumper bolts. I ended up yanking off the turn signal connectors to get the harness out of the bay. Over the last ~8 months I've tried everything to get the bolt out, from using extractors, to welding on tools. That sucker would not come out. I wanted to get it off eventually so I could reconnect the turn signals.
Finally I removed all the plastic rivets and took off the bumper skin, then drilled the bolt out from the top. I messed up the bumper shock and the brackets in the process, but I had those from the parts car. Finally, the bumper was defeated!



That weekend I also installed new wheel studs from Motorsport hardware. I chased the threads carefully to clean them out well before installing the new studs.
I had been meaning to replace all the soft fuel lines around the fuel tank. It was surprisingly easy to do, except one hose clamp that is up above the tank on the driver's side. I ended up drilling an access hole there which made the job (and any future re-do's) much easier. This pic was a before pic, I forgot to take an after.

The turbo yata got a new built 1.8l motor dropped in.
I modified the stock radiator support bracket to fit nicely with the taller Mishimoto radiator.


I debated for entirely too long on which seats to buy. Wine Country Motorsports was patient with me as I sat in seats for hours at a time. I ended up with a pair of OMP HTE-R 400's, Schroth Profi II harnesses, VAC floor plates, and Motion Motorsport side mounts.




The seating position above was kind of a temporary mock up. The steering wheel is in such a terrible position, especially for someone with long legs. More on that later.
Obligatory Cars & Coffee photo.

The new motor had a few small issues to sort out (naturally). The front main seal (!!) was leaking. I've never had that happen on an E30. And of course I bought the tranny output seal but didn't install it when the tranny was out, and that was leaking.
I did a shake down run at an autocross. The car was PLANTED and a blast to drive.
My one observation was that after driving an hour on the highway at 4k RPM (4.10 FTW), my oil temps were a bit higher than I am comfortable with. I was getting up to about 235* F. Installing an oil cooler is on the short list before the car gets back on the track again.





I picked up a set of GC SpecE30 camber plates to replace my IE plates. I am hoping these drop the front of the car a little more, giving me some more static camber in the front. I haven't installed these yet. I am going to trim my front Bilstein Sport bump stops at the same time.

The interior is a mess right now. I pulled the dash again to fab a custom bracket for lowering the steering column. The car had an airbag originally, and the steering column is designed differently, making it harder to lower. This custom u-shaped bracket did the trick. It allowed me to add a quick release, lower the wheel, and move the seat back for a better leg position. Much better now!



The pic above includes some of the E30 parts I need to list for sale! The bracket got painted after that pic, and the interior pic was before the bracket went in, so the steering and seat setup hadn't changed at all at that point. Peter at Road N Race had this nuked M20 in the shop... ouch!


Did the brakes on the Subaru, and did some work on the yata. The bullhorn exhaust is temporarily until we can get the new downpipe fabbed.


Another obligatory C&C shot:

WE'RE CAUGHT UP
That pretty much brings the thread up to current day.
The car is kind of limbo at the moment. I don't want to drive the car any longer until the roll bar goes in, so I can install the harnesses and have a proper setup for the fixed back seats. I'm scheduled to have the roll bar done in 2 weeks. After that, I will turn my focus to finishing the interior. I have Condor door panel deletes, a new quick release, and the harnesses to install. Then I need to fixed a couple rust spots, and paint the interior. Then the dash and gauges need to be reinstalled.
The next priority will be the oil cooler install. I am going to mount the biggest oil cooler I can down in the lower valance area. I'll be taking measurements for that this weekend.
The car will need to be aligned again, so I will make sure to get the GC camber plates installed before that.
Once those items are done IT'S BACK TO THE TRACK!











































































































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