^agree
Project Weißer Regen: 91 318iS Restomod
Collapse
X
-
-
-
Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast
Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
https://mtechniqueabs.com/Comment
-
As you've not built the engine yet, I'd recommend that you use the 1993-5 E36 318iS or 318Ti front timing case. After quite a few idler gear failures on the earlier engine, BMW replaced the idler gear with a curved guide rail in 9/93. The idler gear itself can shit it's bearings but also, the lug that the gear bolts into can break away from the casing. I've seen both. You'll pay buttons for a used later E36 timing case - the chain and gears are the same.
The part number is 11141739699 and it looks like BMW used it to supersede the older type like yours.
An M44 one won't do as they have no mounting lug for the TDC sensor.Comment
-
-
Wow! I need a lot of those for my own car (particularly for the driver door jamb), ahead of the body & paint work it'll be receiving this spring. My car was also produced in 6/1990. Given you worked with him to produce these as a one-off, would it be OK to print another batch of some of those stickers?
1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
1983 Peugeot 505 STI
1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WDComment
-
I am well aware of the idler gear issue that the early M42's have but realistically the likelihood of it occurring is minuscule at best and I would much rather keep the original timing case casting for originality sake.As you've not built the engine yet, I'd recommend that you use the 1993-5 E36 318iS or 318Ti front timing case. After quite a few idler gear failures on the earlier engine, BMW replaced the idler gear with a curved guide rail in 9/93. The idler gear itself can shit it's bearings but also, the lug that the gear bolts into can break away from the casing. I've seen both. You'll pay buttons for a used later E36 timing case - the chain and gears are the same.
The part number is 11141739699 and it looks like BMW used it to supersede the older type like yours.
An M44 one won't do as they have no mounting lug for the TDC sensor.
Pukar Designs owns the property rights for all of the stickers, they can create or recreate any you like. Just reach out to them on Facebook and let him know I sent ya.Wow! I need a lot of those for my own car (particularly for the driver door jamb), ahead of the body & paint work it'll be receiving this spring. My car was also produced in 6/1990. Given you worked with him to produce these as a one-off, would it be OK to print another batch of some of those stickers?
The doors and front valance got paint on the inner sides today, man do they look scrumptious! Imperiale Collision tells me the exterior of the car should get paint next week! I can't wait!

Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast
Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
https://mtechniqueabs.com/Comment
-
awesome88 325is. S54, CSL airbox, Motec M800, Motec C127, Motec PDM15, Stoptech STR, MCS 2 way coilovers, Forgeline wheels, Recaro SPA, Eisenmann, Personal, lots of custom.
90 318is. As new OEM+, BBS LM, AST 4210 2 way coilovers, Wilwood SL6R/SL4R, Dynaudio, Recaro ExpertsComment
-
What the proper way to paint these things? Doors, hood etc separate first, bolt them and then spray over bolts etc?
I’m going to repaint mine come spring and don’t know if I should have them paint the door jamb and back of fenders, install/align doors, hood, trunk etc before the paint and that paint the whole thing. Thank you
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkComment
-
Properly after original would be the paint the doors, hood and trunk off the car, back side / jam out first then a careful backmasking to paint the exterior sides. Once done rehang carefully on the vehicle.
You can then mask and paint the mounting hardware if you like. In my case I have all new or replated hardware and I am going to simply run them exposed.
In the fender jams it is proper to paint over the hardware. Same with the bolts that fasten the fenders to the valance.
I also went has Imperiale go into extra detail recreating the seam sealer beads where the fenders meet the cowl, and where the squared off tip of the fenders meet the nose panel at the front as it was originally.

Nose panel without any seam sealer

With seam sealer smeared in the gap to minimize its appearance.
Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast
Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
https://mtechniqueabs.com/Comment
-
Properly after original would be the paint the doors, hood and trunk off the car, back side / jam out first then a careful backmasking to paint the exterior sides. Once done rehang carefully on the vehicle.
You can then mask and paint the mounting hardware if you like. In my case I have all new or replated hardware and I am going to simply run them exposed.
In the fender jams it is proper to paint over the hardware. Same with the bolts that fasten the fenders to the valance.
I also went has Imperiale go into extra detail recreating the seam sealer beads where the fenders meet the cowl, and where the squared off tip of the fenders meet the nose panel at the front as it was originally.

Nose panel without any seam sealer

With seam sealer smeared in the gap to minimize its appearance.

I also noticed that OEM used some sort of tape on the joint where the fender meets the cowl (horizontal joint, inner part of the fender) and them painted over it. Do you know what tape can reproduce that OEM tape?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkComment
-
Comment


Comment