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Lacey, the Lachssilber 325iS - oem+ 5spd. swap daily driver build

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    One is rotella, the other is mobil1. One is 15w40 and one is 75w90 iirc. They're pretty different in color but obviously viscosity changes and color might change once warmed up. I think my game plan for next week is to pull the inspection piece in between the transmission and engine to see if the oil is leaking from in between the pan gasket and rear main seal. If so, I have a oil pan gasket in my shed ill use and see if that fixes the problem.

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  • TeXJ
    replied
    So both oils are amber, carmel colored?

    Did you happen to over fill either one of them?

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    Almost certain. Ill double check tomorrow.

    Edit: just checked my engine oil level and its full. With the amount that i spilled in my driveway, it would have to be down to halfway i would assume. Plus the oil for my engine is a carmel color, whereas my trans oil is light and the leaking fluid definitely looks like coors light. Could still be wrong though.

    I almost hoped you were right though because it would've made more sense that the rear main seal mounting plate is leaking in between the pan and plate, since i didnt use a new pan gasket to reseal it, than the trans input shaft is, since i did reseal it.

    Whats the easiest way to 100% confirm its trans fluid or engine oil?
    Last edited by vtechnik; 10-02-2018, 07:46 PM.

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  • zwill23
    replied
    Damn, tough break.

    Might be a silly question, but are you sure it's trans oil?

    I've seen a very similar issue that I thought was a rear main seal, but it was the oil pan gasket leaking right above the trans reinforcement plate. Oil would seemingly seep right in between where the engine and trans meet up.

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    Yea it is weird. After thinking it over, my best guess is that its a crack in the transmission housing. I know i sealed the input shaft good enough that it wouldnt spew out oil, maybe a drip but not a stream. Im gonna keep an eye out for a tranny while i start to pull mine out. Let me know if anyone has a good deal on a getrag, ill need one on deck if mine does turn out to be cracked.

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  • TFJR
    replied
    Awesome she is a 5 speed now! Weird that the transmission is dumpling fluid at such a fast rate.

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  • iwantspeed
    replied
    Sorry to hear that the 5 speed swap is leaking bad.


    But this presents another opportunity to fix a mistake you made.
    You should remove the harmonic balancer ring on your driveshaft.
    It will hit your shift linkage since you did the z3 shifter.
    You can bend your shift linkage to clear the harmonic balancer, but if you ever change shift levers in the future or upgrade to a dssr (highly recommend) then you can't install it until the that ring is removed.


    You will need a few new bolts.
    From what I remember that ring uses pressed in studs.
    You can hammer out the studs, remove the ring and install regular bolts.


    Also make sure you orientate the guibo in the correct direction.
    The tip of the arrow needs to point to a flange.

    Most e30 do not have a harmonic balancer on the driveshaft
    A diy I made I while ago
    E30 dssr installation process In the shifter area its a great opportunity to replace several items, its a perfect example of while your in there. Parts DSSR (found here) Shift knuckle bushing shift knuckle(centered knuckle to be compatible with the dssr) New shift lever (Z3 1.9 model, great feel for a budget price.) ne
    Last edited by iwantspeed; 10-02-2018, 10:40 AM.

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    5 spd. swap done-ish! Not really. I can explain.

    It's been a minute since I posted an update on Lacey so I'll try to catch up on everything fairly brief-like.

    What's new? Well.. I straightened my wheels, got new tires, blew my heater core, missed the picnic :( , got a roof rack, went on a road trip, bought another honda, sold the honda, then bought a miata, oh.. and I 5spd. swapped Lacey ;D

    Pics of Lacey





    I'm looking for someone local who wants to trade for ix weaves, if anyone is interested

    Pics of Stacy (1997 miata):
    She's a hoot







    On to the good stuff (I might add more pics later):



    Parts list (nothin' but oem yo):

    - Chase bays clutch line (ok, so not everything)
    - Rear main seal
    - Center support bearing (FCP sent another immediately after i told them mine came bent)
    - Sachs clutch kit
    - Clutch slave cylinder
    - Rear main seal housing gasket
    - Driveshaft guibo
    - All new hardware pretty much everywhere possible with hefty amounts of red loctite :)
    - Shifter ball socket
    - Exhaust flanges
    - Clutch fork pivot
    - Clutch release spring
    - Firewall grommets
    - Pilot bearing
    - Engine mounts
    - Transmission mounts
    - Shifter bushing
    - Garagistic mushroom shift knob with mtech center cap
    - Shift boot
    - Clutch pedal pad
    - Master cylinder rebuild kit
    - Shifter seal
    - Selector rod joint
    - 1.9 z3 shift lever :D
    - Elring Dirko Chemical sealant
    - Air filter
    - Oil filter

    I'll make the pics brief

    Exhaust off and pic of said rack



    Driveshaft out



    Pulled intake for access to the starter nuts. While in there I cleaned the whole assembly, cleaned the throttle body, and changed the filter



    Autotragedy out



    halfway impromptu art with my dremel :)



    Officially more manual than auto





    I put a new clutch pad on later



    Rear main seal done






    Resurfaced



    Torqued





    Yikes



    Better



    Put in a new seal, and used elring sealant to seal her up



    Shifter seal replaced too along with the entirety of the shift linkage. I swapped the egay short shifter for a proper 1.9 z3 setup








    rebuilt the master




    annnd after calling a buddy, we got the tranny in (ended up breaking one of the tranny mounts so i reused one on the side that doesn't get a lot of stress lol)



    Split, cleaned, replaced csb, and assembled (yes, i made sure it went back together how it came)







    filled her up (yes, i know it's not ideal fluid)



    put the exhaust and intake back in



    set her on the ground for a test drive



    Pretty cool right?

    Well...

    After test driving her around the block, I found almost all my work to be useless. Once she warms up, the tranny leaks like someones pouring oil through a funnel on to concrete. The transmission fluid is coming from in between the block and bellhousing :roll: Not sure how this happened since I replaced the seal and used a thin layer of elring dirko sealant (which I heard is pretty good stuff?) maybe I'll opt for the o'reilly rtv special this time? Also, I could see it dripping a little if i didn't seal it completely but the leak is a full on stream when warmed up? Also I know the fluid I'm using is a little thin for the application. but again it shouldn't be a full on stream? Anyhow, I'm gonna take a week to focus on school, do some research and go back at it. I'm a little discouraged but it's just another speed bump in the grand scheme of things. Any productive suggestions are appreciated.

    FINAL THOUGHT: For anyone doing the single mass conversion, don't cheap out on the throw out bearing. It's $75. Get the 323i TOB. Period. Unless you want your clutch to grab at the very bottom of the pedal, get the 323i TOB. The silver lining in fixing the leak is I'll be able to get 323i TOB. Again, get the 323i TOB. lolol
    Last edited by vtechnik; 10-01-2018, 10:08 PM.

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    So I put the fortnite controller down yesterday and worked on the eta. I figure I'm gonna need the space for my 5spd. swap in the car port so getting rid of it asap is becoming a priority.





    trash



    parts soon to be for sale



    Found out last night whoever mounted these wheels is a dumbass cause they're asymmetric and the guy mounted them all the same way... smh, I'm gonna have to take them all off again and swap the tires around. I'm also starting to feel a heavy vibration at high speeds, I think it maybe the steering rack / skid plate bolts coming lose. I gotta tighten them up again. If it's not that then the wheels aren't balanced right too.

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
    hmmm sounds like you did. its ok, he got me too...

    When you swapped from the weaves were they noticeably lighter?
    Just drove a bit on them, they feel just as light as basketweaves with the spacers, so presumably they must be a little lighter. The traklite spacers however are super light as is, so the wheels are probably really close to the weight of the basketweaves.

    Originally posted by TheWipprSnappr View Post
    Nice progress. Fitment looks great :up:
    Thanks!

    Originally posted by TFJR View Post
    I dig the new wheels. Worth the drive to Portland!
    Thanks! Yesssir it was. Maybe I'll see you at Dick's tonight?

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  • TFJR
    replied
    I dig the new wheels. Worth the drive to Portland!

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  • TheWipprSnappr
    replied
    Nice progress. Fitment looks great :up:

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  • vtechnik
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
    hmmm sounds like you did. its ok, he got me too...

    When you swapped from the weaves were they noticeably lighter?
    Can we drop it? I don't want to talk about it...

    Not really, they felt similar in weight when swapping. I have to drive it a little with the spacers to get a feel for the new weight.

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Originally posted by vtechnik View Post
    First part: Smh lol

    Second part: They say "Ultra Light" on the outer edge and "made in japan" on the back. I'm thinking about posting it in the "What wheel is this?" thread, to see if anyone has other pics of them mounted.
    hmmm sounds like you did. its ok, he got me too...

    When you swapped from the weaves were they noticeably lighter?

    Leave a comment:


  • vtechnik
    replied


    Since someone is bound to say "pics or it didn't happen", here ya go

    edit:

    Just found this:
    Last edited by vtechnik; 03-27-2018, 01:41 PM.

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