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I then drilled a 1/2" hole into the Euro turn signal housing, and into the aluminum reflector plate (do not try to do these both in one shot, remove the aluminum plate, and drill separately and carefully) I then used a plastic epoxy to glue the cylinder to the turn signal.
I had to clean up the grooves on the inside of the connector where the light housing slides into, they had epoxy in them.
Then I wired up the connector to the existing side marker wires on the car.
Voila, parking lights, and turn signals for my euro bumpers.
I then drilled a 1/2" hole into the Euro turn signal housing, and into the aluminum reflector plate (do not try to do these both in one shot, remove the aluminum plate, and drill separately and carefully) I then used a plastic epoxy to glue the cylinder to the turn signal.
I had to clean up the grooves on the inside of the connector where the light housing slides into, they had epoxy in them.
Then I wired up the connector to the existing side marker wires on the car.
Voila, parking lights, and turn signals for my euro bumpers.
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This is one of the most impressive written diagrams of a DIY I think I've ever seen!
So odd that you posted this today, I've spent the last couple nights looking into the best way to wire the euro turn signal and get them working properly. Nice work, and nicer diagrams!
'86 325e Zinnoberrot /// '02 325ci Schwarz II /// '18 M4 Azurite Black Metallic///
I'm trying to brainstorm a way to wire this up without cutting that terminal, I just don't like the way it looks and if I mess it up I'm screwed.
I may be misunderstanding as I'm certainly not good with electronics, but the difference between the euro and US turn signals is that the euro turn signals only blink and do not function as the parking lights since the "city light" on the euro smileys has the parking light function. Hence the two prongs on the euro turn signal. The US headlights don't have the city light feature, and therefore the turn signals function as BOTH the blinker and parking light, hence the 3 prongs.
Not sure if this will work, but what I may try and do it rig together two short spade terminals to connect the ground and blinker prongs on the US output pigtail and connect those to the 2 prongs on the euro light, giving them the blinker function. Then running a longer spade terminal from the 3rd prong on the US pigtail and a splice to the ground up to the city light on my euro smileys, giving them the parking light function similar to what the city lights would have been anyway.
Not sure if that would work, would love your or anyone else's input that has any experience with the e30 wiring. I haven't seen anything specifically about wiring city lights with euro bumper conversion and thought this might be a nice clean way to do it. If that doesn't make any sense I can try and draw it out, but I'm embarrassed at how bad it'll probably look next to your diagram
'86 325e Zinnoberrot /// '02 325ci Schwarz II /// '18 M4 Azurite Black Metallic///
Your idea seems solid, there's plenty of grounds to tap into, or tie into the grounding point that's on the driver's side behind the ABS module.
Another thing, people are selling all sorts of pigtails right now on eBay, you can probably find what you need to use OEM connectors to make it all neat and tidy.
Why was the shifter selector seal leaking? You haven’t ran the car yet..I think. The reason I’m asking because I’m paranoid about the same seal on my built and want to know how did you know it was leaking before you put everything together.
Why was the shifter selector seal leaking? You haven’t ran the car yet..I think. The reason I’m asking because I’m paranoid about the same seal on my built and want to know how did you know it was leaking before you put everything together.
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When I ran the cam in, I was also bleeding the cooling system, and to easily do that I had the front of the car on jackstands, and the rear on the ground, so it's at an angle.
And to test my trans seals, I put it in 5th. (Driveshaft was out of the car) so I ran it for about 40 min, with the trans spinning away, at an angle.
Idk why it was leaking, the PO had installed one, but backwards, so I changed it out, and installed it properly, and sure enough, it was leaking. So, I swapped that one out, and jammed two more in there with Curil K2 between the housing and the seal. At this point, if it leak, it leaks, I'll just clean it up periodically.
When I ran the cam in, I was also bleeding the cooling system, and to easily do that I had the front of the car on jackstands, and the rear on the ground, so it's at an angle.
And to test my trans seals, I put it in 5th. (Driveshaft was out of the car) so I ran it for about 40 min, with the trans spinning away, at an angle.
Idk why it was leaking, the PO had installed one, but backwards, so I changed it out, and installed it properly, and sure enough, it was leaking. So, I swapped that one out, and jammed two more in there with Curil K2 between the housing and the seal. At this point, if it leak, it leaks, I'll just clean it up periodically.
I see. I also drove two seals in there, just in case. From what I understand, people replacing those seals and scratch the selector shaft itself hence the leak that no new seal can fix
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