weld it.. and it wont rust
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self etching primer is not a sealer, only aids in paint sticking to bare metal. the topcoat is the sealer or an epoxy primer/ sealer is needed. self etch the bare metal and when painted with the topcoat it will be sealed. also fiberglass not sealed over with paint will only trap and hold moisture between it and the other surface, as it is porous. good luck and keep us posted. im sure it will look great when finished.
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Originally posted by mentaleeill View Postself etching primer is not a sealer, only aids in paint sticking to bare metal. the topcoat is the sealer or an epoxy primer/ sealer is needed. self etch the bare metal and when painted with the topcoat it will be sealed. also fiberglass not sealed over with paint will only trap and hold moisture between it and the other surface, as it is porous. good luck and keep us posted. im sure it will look great when finished.
Don't worry Kevin, huge progress is coming this weekend!Last edited by Jand3rson; 09-29-2006, 11:02 PM.
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Originally posted by Ritalin KidRegular automotive primer is not a sealer and is water soluable. It will soak up moisture and eventually cause rust bubbles.
Originally posted by Ritalin Kid View Postthe only way you can use stainless steel rivets is with a rivetting air tool. A regular hand held pop rivet gun will not work on stainless steel rivets.
Originally posted by mentaleeillself etching primer is not a sealer, only aids in paint sticking to bare metal. the topcoat is the sealer or an epoxy primer/ sealer is needed. self etch the bare metal and when painted with the topcoat it will be sealed. also fiberglass not sealed over with paint will only trap and hold moisture between it and the other surface, as it is porous.
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostThat stuff reminds me of POR-15.
Originally posted by Mike325 View PostLooking real good:up: How are you going to make the rear bumper line up? You going to cut it like I did mine?Last edited by Jand3rson; 09-30-2006, 11:54 PM.
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Originally posted by Eurospeed View PostProbably more or less the same thing.
Mike, just to let you know, Andy and I ended up going with the method that you used, rather than Jordan's. But instead of just cutting the skin of the bumper (at least, that's what it looks like you did), we went ahead and cut through the entire bumper, taking it all off in one solid piece.Originally posted by cabriodster87"Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."Originally posted by Kershawi've got a boner and a desire to speed.
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Trust me guys, there are shitloads of pics, I'll have them uploaded in a few hours, when I get home. I'm still over here at Andrew's house, but the chopping and bonding of the rear bumper and trim is DONE. The pieces are back together, bonded hard as a rock with fiberglass. We're going to let the fiberglass harden overnight, and then in a day or two, bondo the seams and get everything ready for paint.
Mike, we decided to go with your method after reading through Jordan's and kind of realizing that his method was WAY more mork than is actually needed. What he did worked great and came out looking really good, but it's more than you need to do. And with the way you/we did it, you retain the OEM end of the bumper, which I would rather have. I know you guys are chomping at the bit as much as I am, I'll have lots of pics for you very soon. :up:
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That is how I felt with mine. Let me know if you have any questions with it. How are you reconnecting the two halfs? Oviously don't use bondo;) Maybe fiberglass?Originally posted by cabriodster87"Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."Originally posted by Kershawi've got a boner and a desire to speed.
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