Originally posted by R3Z3N
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OMG's Personal S54 Build :)
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IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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EWS delete is as simple as turning a zero value to anything else, no need to pay for this or disabling DTC codes that you didn't wire up such as SAP or rear O2 etc...
Pull your tune file, and search for 64 00 5A 00 00
Change the red byte to any other value IE 64 FF 5A 00 00
The VALUE (Not string) is located at 0x60 for Non-HP and 0x8A for HP variants . 0x means hex location, not binary location.
Either way, you don't need to know how or why, I made the tunerpro files so its click and start your car.
You just need an appropriate ODB2 FTDI cable such as: EBAY LINK
Or this Amazon Prime
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Roger that. I have the cable ready to go, I use it for light NCS coding.
I'll mess with this once I have power going to the components. For now I'm still routing everything. Have no way of bench flashing the ECU.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Updates!
Set up the lines for the oil cooler:
Even with the tool this was a pain in the ass
I'm waiting on some line separators to make this a bit tidier...
E30 Gauge Cluster Coolant Temp (using one of our own re-threaded ones :D) and tapped an additional port for the digital readout on the Podi Gauge:
DBW is mounted up!
Threw the console back and the shift boot... looks proper :up:
I'm waiting on a freshly revamped cluster from e30_dad as well... Sneak peak:
Finally mustered up the courage to cut the plenum to get it to fit in the bay...
Clearance with it in place... we'll see how close this is one I get the material in place. May need to cut just a hair more.
;D;D
Started fabbing up the brackets to hold the charcoal canister and the FPR:
Had to throw the core support back on for a more complete look:
IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Changed the thread title cause it was lame...
Hoping to fire up the car this week!
This was fun... Dana helped plastic weld this entire section into position. It's solid as heck!
Added another bracket here to suspend the oil pressure sender:
Brake booster vacuum setup, heater core hoses trimmed and ready for fitment:
e30_dad worked his magic on a cluster for me, it came out lovely to say the least!!
Since this is a 318iS it never had the proper bracket for the coolant reservoir... decided it was time to fab something up:
Fuel bits plumbed:
IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Made up the drain back line for the valve cover to the pan:
Dropping in some dino oil:
Dropped in the Z3M "3core" radiator for a quick clearance check... everything is good :up:
Last but not least... we fired the thing up!!!!!
I know you'll probably jump ahead to the video but after you watch you can read about the obligatory no start issues.
The EKP module that Andrew supplied seemed to have shorted out internally because the fuel pump was getting power even with the ignition off. It wasn't enough amperage to actually turn the thing one which is part of the reason why I didn't know where to start other than the fact that the car wasn't getting fuel. In the process of diagnosing the issue I stupidly touched on of the contacts on the other fuel pump relay and shorted that friggin thing out. So we replaced the EKP module (fuel pump primed on ignition properly now) and the fuel pump relay... still no start. So the next step was to check the fuses on that same harness. Lo and behold one of the 30 amp fuses that controls power to the injectors.
So stoked! The motor runs butter smooth granted we only ran it for a few seconds because we didn't have any coolant in it. No check engine light either thankfully!IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Oh and I do apologize for the crappy voice/video sync. I have no idea how to fix that.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by R3Z3N View PostCongrats!!! The look of "Oh HELL YA! We did it!!" is great to see! So stoked for you!
Originally posted by wworm View PostwoooO! Such a good feelingIG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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So great, I'd love to S54 swap one of my turds.1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito
bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr
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I need to update my Gen 1 wiring schematic. Gary just got back to me. The AC Pressure sensor ground connects to the same ground as the CAN controller, because it is a low voltage signal and you do not want voltage float differing between the CAN controller and AC Pressure sensor. The Gen 2 schematic is correct, but it has a pin also for AC Pressure sensor ground, which also gets chassis grounded.
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Originally posted by R3Z3N View PostI need to update my Gen 1 wiring schematic. Gary just got back to me. The AC Pressure sensor ground connects to the same ground as the CAN controller, because it is a low voltage signal and you do not want voltage float differing between the CAN controller and AC Pressure sensor. The Gen 2 schematic is correct, but it has a pin also for AC Pressure sensor ground, which also gets chassis grounded.Last edited by dude8383; 02-12-2019, 05:09 AM.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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