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My e30 Project... Mtech II sedan, Jlines, Vaders, M50 and much more...

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  • motorsports_3
    replied
    I also removed the door locks and door handles





    I also stripped the pass front door, because this was a diff color, and will get painted with the car.

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  • motorsports_3
    replied
    So here is one of many updates to come as of soon

    I started to mock fit the mtech kit.




    It lines up pretty well, but I adjusted the bumper and it fit better




    Remove front bumper and get it ready for paint



    Time to mount the side skirts



    Skirts mounted


    M Tech pods mounted and holes drilled.




    Now mounting the rep rear valence

    The damn tow hook kept getting in the way


    Off with it



    Also something that annoys me a lot is when you put the rear valence on, part of the factory valence shows. So I cut that out also




    Crappy pics but it fits well









    Now to the really long and hard part.

    I had some rust on both sides of my rear quarter panels. Since it is areas that you don’t see, I decided to fix them my self. Well my friend did all the work, he knows how to weld better than I do and he has the welder.

    Over all we only got once side done, but I think it came out well for the first time ever doing anything like that, and only the welding material he had already and a $12.00 sheet of steel at Home Depot. They are areas covered by the rear lip, so we were not too interested in making it so pretty, just to fix the rust.

    The driver side is the only side today. I have a test on Thursday, but I am not studing on weds, that should be the worse side, the passenger side.


    Mark and cut



    It had water trapped in little crevices. We have not hat rain for over a week


    Cut out


    Sanded the area with the glue stuff


    Started welding, but first we got a measured piece.


    Spot welded in place




    The piece we removed




    All welded up


    I sprayed rubberized undercoating on them to hwlp prevent rust in the future







    The passenger side

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  • nespo_e30is
    replied
    Great job so far, the wheels look tight.

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  • 240zs30
    replied
    Great Job! Glad to see the car has not been forgotten. Can't wait to see this done.

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  • bergie_318is
    replied
    wow great job with the wheels there mate!!

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  • e30 gangsta
    replied
    Originally posted by Anthrax View Post
    Great work. I wish I was as productive when it came to getting my car done.
    X 3543245234534

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  • Anthrax
    replied
    Great work. I wish I was as productive when it came to getting my car done.


    But when I painted my bottlecaps I removed the masking tape before the clear coat dried, to avoid making a sharp edge where the two colours met.
    Did yours turn out ok?

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  • Danny
    replied
    Wow.

    Well done!

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  • motorsports_3
    replied
    Originally posted by Kwaaahhh View Post
    Looks good! Those are 17's right?
    Thank you. Yeah 17x8 all around with a staggard offset.

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  • Kwaaahhh
    replied
    Looks good! Those are 17's right?

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  • motorsports_3
    replied
    Well as I mentioned earlier I purchased some J Line wheels for my e30. I like the wheels, but when I got them the finish on the face was a little under par. They seem to have been painted before, but it was old and faded. I decided to take it into my own hands.
    Start off with the wheel

    Take a bunch of pieces of tape, around 3-4 inches long and lay them out. I did this twice, and it covered the whole wheel

    Here is how it should look



    You should put a little of the tape of the face and cut it off. This gives it the closest taping you can get.


    This is how it looks

    On this specific wheel I decided to do the rear. I chose this because the back is polished.

    Now the initial taping is done. Next put the second layer of tape, and the newspaper.






    All the wheels are done.

    Normally you can sand the wheel in the beginning, but since I have a lip I wanted to wait till the paper was on it to not sand the lip
    Use 220 grit paper



    Then go on to 400 grit


    Now clean the face with alcohol, or paint thinner. This take away the dust, and grease from your fingers.

    All clean



    Now time for Primer. Usually I would use primer where you have to mix and use the gun. That is so complicated, and I hate cleaning the gun. I decided to use automotive primer in a can. You can get this at any automotive paint supplies place. If you use cheap primer it will ruin the finish. If you use cheap primer and automotive paint out of the gun the reducer in the paint will eat away the cheap primer.
    This means you can use cheap primer if you use spray paint to do the face.
    If you use automotive paint, you need automotive grade primer.

    Front and rear of wheel primed


    The other three sanded and ready for primer


    All the wheels primed

    I sanded the wheels lightly

    Supplies I used, and needed to put the base coat

    Mixing the paint. The ratio on this paint is 2 parts paint, one part reducer

    One wheel painted

    A comparison of one wheel gold to primed

    Second wheel

    Third wheel

    Last wheel

    Time for clear. This is the clear I used. Not the best quality, but it gets the job done.

    One wheel cleared

    All the wheels done




    Time to remove the tape and paper. Wait until the paint is dry.



    Only mishap. A little of my paint came off. I touched it up, and now is perfect.

    Finished wheel






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  • oekundar
    replied
    man...this is impressive....now...where did you find the faux suede that you used on the headliner and the rear speaker panel?

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  • 240zs30
    replied
    Another Miami guy doing some serious work.
    Great job!

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  • KangamangusDriver
    replied
    Nice project!!

    Looking forward to the progress!

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  • mikeedler
    replied
    sweet ass trike! I still rock my chrome low low when I go riding with my daughter.
    cool that your logging everything.

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