Work Log: Rebirth of the Vert (Red Oktober)

[oekundar]

Motor is back together...YAY!!!





took her out of the garage yesterday and let her run a bit...got a leak from the first injector...top O ring....need to replace it I guess....thats the only issue...no other leaks....heater core/valve still good!

YAYAYAAYAY!...now to finish the interior.... ::)

[oekundar]

Videos of the car running:
Car running with the hood open...notice the noise/chatter....any insight to why?




Bouncing fuel gauge


Hood shut:

[bmwpower]

That's not the fuel gauge - that's the MPG gauge. It's bouncing due to the engine not running right or at too low an RPM.

Did you do a timing belt replacement? Sounds like the timing is off OR the battery is low. Also, could be valve adjustment. Either way, I hear a decent amount of metal knocking.

[oekundar]

That's not the fuel gauge - that's the MPG gauge. It's bouncing due to the engine not running right or at too low an RPM.

Did you do a timing belt replacement? Sounds like the timing is off OR the battery is low. Also, could be valve adjustment. Either way, I hear a decent amount of metal knocking.

Yes...I did do a timing belt replacement....I don't believe the battery is the issue...I didn't think the car would even run with the belts being off....well this sucks!

Any suggestions on how to tackle this?

[bmwpower]

Yes...I did do a timing belt replacement....I don't believe the battery is the issue...I didn't think the car would even run with the belts being off....well this sucks!

Any suggestions on how to tackle this?

I wouldn't run the car again until I check to make sure the timing is correct. Get the thing at TDC and check your marks. They should be spot on. It could be off a tooth or so, which could make it do as yours is doing. Any more than a little off and .... bang.

Also, check the valves. Did you adjust them when you did the timing belt? Valves not adjusted correctly will make the car run like crap.

The other possibility, and I'm not sure of your source but I'm just putting this out there....did you verify it ran ok before the timing belt change? I can't remember how things came to be...

Don't fret just yet...

[oekundar]

I wouldn't run the car again until I check to make sure the timing is correct. Get the thing at TDC and check your marks. They should be spot on. It could be off a tooth or so, which could make it do as yours is doing. Any more than a little off and .... bang.

Also, check the valves. Did you adjust them when you did the timing belt? Valves not adjusted correctly will make the car run like crap.

The other possibility, and I'm not sure of your source but I'm just putting this out there....did you verify it ran ok before the timing belt change? I can't remember how things came to be...

Don't fret just yet...

I'll be pulling her apart again tomorrow as I'm off...the car did run before, but I can't remember how well it ran...it was over heating and when I dove into it...I thought the heater valve/core were bad...so I basically gutted the interior and replaced all the coolant related pieces...water pump, cleaned the heater core/valve...made sure they weren't leaking...got new O rings...new (used) radiator and of course all new belts...oil change...intake gaskets...yadda yadda yadda...

I did not check or adjust the valves...didn't think I needed to...if I need do...is there a procedure somewhere?...you should just stop by and help me out... :D

Thanks for your kind words!

[bmwpower]

I'll be pulling her apart again tomorrow as I'm off...the car did run before, but I can't remember how well it ran...it was over heating and when I dove into it...I thought the heater valve/core were bad...so I basically gutted the interior and replaced all the coolant related pieces...water pump, cleaned the heater core/valve...made sure they weren't leaking...got new O rings...new (used) radiator and of course all new belts...oil change...intake gaskets...yadda yadda yadda...

I did not check or adjust the valves...didn't think I needed to...if I need do...is there a procedure somewhere?...you should just stop by and help me out... :D

Thanks for your kind words!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E30-Valve_Adjust/E30-Valve_Adjust.htm

You definitely want to adjust the valves, especially after a timing belt replacement.

Check the timing belt and turn over the car by hand a couple times to make sure things line up. Assuming they do, adjust the valves.

I can stop by if you need a hand. :)

[oekundar]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...lve_Adjust.htm

You definitely want to adjust the valves, especially after a timing belt replacement.

Check the timing belt and turn over the car by hand a couple times to make sure things line up. Assuming they do, adjust the valves.

I can stop by if you need a hand. :)

Thanks for the link...I could certainly use a hand...in fact I did turn the engine over several times after putting everything together initially and didn't hear or feel anything...it was smooth sailing...so I moved forward

[bmwpower]

Thanks for the link...I could certainly use a hand...in fact I did turn the engine over several times after putting everything together initially and didn't hear or feel anything...it was smooth sailing...so I moved forward

Could just be the valves then. Worth a check either way.

Let us know how it goes...

[oekundar]

Could just be the valves then. Worth a check either way.

Let us know how it goes...

SO quick update...in following the Pelican link and directions...I have the spark plugs out and the valve cover off and half the car is in the air.

The car is in "D" and I rotated the driver's side rear wheel, as per the directions to get the cam lobes to move/rotate, I get no rotation/movement. I had my wife keep an eye on the valve train while I rotated the tire...nothing. In re-reading the directions, it says until the lobes stop moving...so I don't know what to do/try next.

So what now?


On the other hand...in the picture below...the little rail pointed to by the black arrow was slightly bent/ie not straight...I have since straighted it...I don't recall anything at all even touching it...but who knows....

Ok...more advise/help...thanks Eric!!

[bmwpower]

SO quick update...in following the Pelican link and directions...I have the spark plugs out and the valve cover off and half the car is in the air.

The car is in "D" and I rotated the driver's side rear wheel, as per the directions to get the cam lobes to move/rotate, I get no rotation/movement. I had my wife keep an eye on the valve train while I rotated the tire...nothing. In re-reading the directions, it says until the lobes stop moving...so I don't know what to do/try next.

So what now?


On the other hand...in the picture below...the little rail pointed to by the black arrow was slightly bent/ie not straight...I have since straighted it...I don't recall anything at all even touching it...but who knows....

Ok...more advise/help...thanks Eric!!

I could be wrong since I've never used that exact method, but it sounds like they're assuming you have a manual trans. Probably doesn't work with an auto trans. I've always just put a ratchet or breaker bar on the crank nut and turned the engine that way.

That rail carries oil to components in the valvetrain I believe...in that pict it looks like it's feeding the camshaft bearing with oil. If it's any sort of damaged or kinked, I would replace it.

$20 or so at dealer:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...86&hg=11&fg=25

Each cylinder has 2 valves on this engine. When the you rotate the camshaft to adjust the valves for each cylinder, you want to stop when the rocker arms for that cylinder stop moving or when they are at the approx. backside of the camshaft lobe. They stop moving when the valves are first fully closed. They open and close according the the lobes on the camshaft. I hope this makes sense.

[oekundar]

I could be wrong since I've never used that exact method, but it sounds like they're assuming you have a manual trans. Probably doesn't work with an auto trans. I've always just put a ratchet or breaker bar on the crank nut and turned the engine that way.

That rail carries oil to components in the valvetrain I believe...in that pict it looks like it's feeding the camshaft bearing with oil. If it's any sort of damaged or kinked, I would replace it.

$20 or so at dealer:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...86&hg=11&fg=25

Each cylinder has 2 valves on this engine. When the you rotate the camshaft to adjust the valves for each cylinder, you want to stop when the rocker arms for that cylinder stop moving or when they are at the approx. backside of the camshaft lobe. They stop moving when the valves are first fully closed. They open and close according the the lobes on the camshaft. I hope this makes sense.

It sorta makes sense...I will use the camshaft tonight...how the heck is this a one person job?

[bmwpower]

It sorta makes sense...I will use the camshaft tonight...how the heck is this a one person job?

It's easier than it sounds. And that's the crankshaft...turn it by turning the crankshaft, not the camshaft.

[oekundar]

It's easier than it sounds. And that's the crankshaft...turn it by turning the crankshaft, not the camshaft.

I did mean crankshaft...:p

[kenika65]

http://ee1394.com/bmw/docs/factory/repair/en/index1.htm

http://www.e30.eu/tech/E30ManualHaynescomplete.pdf

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

http://opel-scan.ru/files/DME_1.1_1.3.pdf

http://jon.bimmerfest.com/bulletins/e30_manual.pdf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M20

http://www.bmwccn.no/rogaland/Mahle_m20.html

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/s14/index.htm

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=107