Originally posted by JuanPabloBongto
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I cleaned all the extra washer tubing I had so the system would look as good as possible and began to build going from the picture.
I only had one of the black "L" shaped pieces because I couldn't find the part number, but it turned out better without it and so I tossed it.
Looks almost exactly like the picture. (I'm definitely getting a new tank to match the clear tops, it will make the whole engine bay look cleaner)
Here is how it's run. (yes I realize i need to replace the foam underneath)
Now I can finally fill my intensive tank with intensive cleaner!
The system isn't quite functional yet, the correct tubing is ran, but I still need to run the correct 3 wires to their correct places. It shouldn't take too long. Videos will obviously come of how it is activated and what happens when you push the switch.
While I'm in paris my car is being dropped off to have it's fuel injectors rebuilt to try to help the poor gas mileage I get. Along with that I will see if I can get my mechanic to install the maplight while he rebuilds the fuel injectors, it would save me a lot of trouble.
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Good guess on those clips to hold the fog light deletes! You should post the PN for those who might need to order themMtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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Originally posted by Jean View PostGood guess on those clips to hold the fog light deletes! You should post the PN for those who might need to order them
51 71 1 906 287
51 71 1 906 287
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Before I dropped my car off at my mechanic I decided to clean up the intensive tubing a bit to make it look more professional and OEM. Success was mine.
Almost exactly like the picture
My mechanic took a look at my malfunctioning horn and said he would need to hold the car for more than a day or I can take it home now and drop it off another time. He said to bring my old steering wheel. When I got there he had told me he fiddled around with it for about an hour switching the horn relay, then the fuse, then the wiring, and nothing had worked. So he took my old steering wheel and switched out the hubs. Still honked all the time. He said it could be one of the buttons on the wheel is constantly depressed and I thought, judging from this diagram:
I would be able to take it apart and examine it.
This is what you have under the buttons of a tech 1 wheel:
The button pushes on a stick which pushes onto the copper plate which pushes down on the yellow thing to honk. None of the buttons had been compressed but I took the copper out of each and put the buttons back on and put the wheel back on my car. HOOOOONK! Fuck. Then while the wheel was in I took off all the buttons, took off all the copper and the wheel still honked! I have no idea why it's honking since all the buttons or taken completely off! I'm really at a loss. I feel like everything has been tried. Anybody have any ideas?
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Were you just touching the yellow thing to make it honk after you removed the button and copper inserts? If that what is confusing you is because that yellow thing is the actual button and the other stuff is just covering and button.
The common factor in the mix is that with the copper inserts out, everything works. Maybe something is defective with those (I have no idea what though). Or you could just leave them out and not worry about it. But I know OCD types and that would bother me to.
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Originally posted by cepa318is View PostWere you just touching the yellow thing to make it honk after you removed the button and copper inserts? If that what is confusing you is because that yellow thing is the actual button and the other stuff is just covering and button.
The common factor in the mix is that with the copper inserts out, everything works. Maybe something is defective with those (I have no idea what though). Or you could just leave them out and not worry about it. But I know OCD types and that would bother me to.
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Well the wide angle heated mirror part ended up coming bad again from Blunt so while in in europe this is the best time to get it. I went to a dealer in Paris and when I had gotten there I saw a sign that said BMW and it was completely empty and dark and there was one guy on the phone in there and he came out and told me the dealer had gone out of business. I guess the recession is hitting Paris badly too. I went to another dealer in France and it took a while to break the language barrier and we finally did they said they could order it and get it to their dealer in about 7 days, I leave tomorrow. So I asked if when they get it if they could ship it to my house or a dealer in America and they said they don't do that.
So I asked a guy in the UK if he can order it, once the mirror is at the UK dealer, he can pick it up and ship it to me, this way he can get around BMW's policy of not shipping illegal items to the USA. The wide-angle aspect of the mirror doesn't fit DOT standards so they won't ship it over. I have a bunch of parts that came in the mail at my house so i'll instal and take pics when I get home.
If anybody is in Europe on this forum that is willing to do something like the guy above.
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A couple of Plasti-Dipped Mirror Housings arrived a few days ago. I only needed the driver's side, so Now I have a collection going on. (Please Excuse the terrible pic)
(It looks better in real life, and my car is dirty in the pic, but you get the point)
When in the search for the Mono Power Mirror Switch, I had one sent from the UK from a guy named "Hartge H27" He's a terribly nice guy. When it arrived to my house (very quickly) it appeared to be the Dual Power Mirror Switch. I told him and he had misunderstood but was very accommodating. I told him I was also in search for a Dual Fog Light Switch and he had one in very good condition shipped to my house in record breaking time!
When Removing the Single Fog Switch and comparing the two side by side, you can see the differences that are far from complex.
The pins go in somewhat of a diagonal line, the two closest to the top right corner of the back of the switch control the front fogs; which is of course on both switchs.
The two pins closest to the bottom left corner of the back of the switch control the rear fogs; which are of course not on the Single fog switch and are on the dual fog switch.
When Examining the female ends of the fog light switch assembly, you'll see the wiring is very simple. 3 wires for two pins. (1 wire for ground, one power wire for each fog light). The same just needs to be ran and inserted for the rear fogs.
If you are wondering which direction the switch goes in, the bump goes on the right if you understand. It was light out so I had to cover the cluster with my hand in order to see the bulb lit up on the cluster, but to understand which switch controls which set of fogs, match up the symbols.
Of course, I don't have any front or rear fog lights right now, but the front fog switch still illuminates. The left switch matches up with the symbol for the front fogs and vice versa for the rear fogs.
The only other components needed for the installation are the euro tail light clusters. I don't need the lights themselves, just the backings where the bulbs are inserted and the wiring is. American clusters have rear fogs disabled and require heavy modification to make work, which is why buying euro clusters is much easier.
I don't see this happening any time soon, I lost my phone in Paris so my next paycheck is dedicated towards that. However the numerous projects should pick up quicker in the next few months on account of my new job where I earn double pay.
Still in the mail, is a chrome tip for the exhaust and a Mono Mirror Switch.
I am in need of two major items that take a bit of saving up, I need the euro rear chrome bumper, and a new 370mm tech 1 wheel. Both roughly equalling $300. Which do you guys think I should commit to?
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