Originally posted by jackbenny
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JackBenny's 1991 318is Project
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With the wife down in Florida visiting her sister and the house to myself, I thought I would use this weekend to try out some of the ideas other users have used on their projects. I'm still waiting on parts before I can head back to the barn but they should be here this coming week. For now, it was nice to sit back and play in the garage.
Simon S had the idea of painting the channel in his taillights. You can see the post here:
The stripe is very subtle but I liked the way it came out. My taillights are less than pristine so I thought I would practice on them. If I didn't like it, look for some new lenses. If I screwed up, look for some lenses. If I did like it, so much the better. At the worst, I would be out what I spent on tape and spray paint.
Taping for the stripe is tedious. I probably had 2 hours taping just one light.
You'll note that I've sanded the lenses. All of the raised impressions on the lenses are gone now so they are completely flat. I'm experimenting on one lens and if I like it, I'll do the other one.
All of the lenses are taped up.
And I taped up the back a bit so I could clean up the black portion of the lights.
The paint of choice around here seems to be SEM Black Trim and I picked up a can last week to see what it's all about. I followed the instructions on the can and wiped down the surfaces. Instructions say 2 to 3 coats every 3 to 5 minutes. Better do what the can says...
I think I smoked the lenses too dark.
It's nice paint and goes on very well while giving me the finish I wanted. The paint takes around 48 hours to cure so I think I'll be finished for a while on the lights. But, I might as well take off the tape:
Like I said...subtle.
The work on the lights is not complete however. My intention is to go all red on the tails. So ll pick up some metalcast and I have some spraymax 2k on the way as well. Hopefully it will look nice.
The second theft of ideas comes from Newman's build.
Newman got the same carbon fiber interior panels I got. My original plan was to cut the top of the door panels off and mount them like he did for his skyline project. While I liked the way it came out, I wanted to do something around the perimeter of the panel so it would look nicer next to the door. I took one card and stripped off the leather. Got out some markers and played with the design. This is what happened:
A little tape to protect the finish of the carbon fiber...
plus some straight lines...
and a cutting tool gave me ...
put them together and you get ...
So the door card will be covered in alcantara and uses the carbon fiber uses the same holes to fasten it to the door. I still have to work out the details but I think it will look pretty good. There is still a ton of sanding to do so I can straighten out the lines but I've got time.
For the rest of this weekend, I will probably work on the other light. I'll probably get a new battery for the E21 so I can drive it some more as well. I've been rethinking my M10 build on it and reconsidering the M42. I just really like that engine. Maybe I'll sell my father my carbs for his 2002.
A couple of other thoughts regarding the build. Originally I was going to go with some fixed back seats in the car. Life has me rethinking the purpose of the car, it certainly won't see any wheel to wheel racing. Mostly HPDE and autocross and driving around town. With a kid on the way (a boy we found out last week), I would like to include him with the car. For that reason I've been considering the Recaro Speeds. I know 5 point harnesses require a fixed back depending on the club you are with so I think these might be a good compromise. Feel free to interject your thoughts on the matter, I am open to suggestions.
Kevin Chinn has completed my headliner so I am looking forward to seeing it this coming week. He makes some quality stuff so I am eager to see my alcantera headliner.
And I sent Matt at the Racer's Market a gift so I should be ordering a chip from him soon as well.
But next weekend will be the first time I get to see the car painted. I can't wait to finally wrench on it!-Josh
Check out my build thread...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131055
Need parts? Support the community!
http://www.gutenparts.com
http://www.blunttech.com
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Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber View Postbest door panel idea yet.-Josh
Check out my build thread...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131055
Need parts? Support the community!
http://www.gutenparts.com
http://www.blunttech.com
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Originally posted by jackbenny View PostOriginally I was going to go with some fixed back seats in the car. Life has me rethinking the purpose of the car, it certainly won't see any wheel to wheel racing. Mostly HPDE and autocross and driving around town. With a kid on the way (a boy we found out last week), I would like to include him with the car. For that reason I've been considering the Recaro Speeds. I know 5 point harnesses require a fixed back depending on the club you are with so I think these might be a good compromise. Feel free to interject your thoughts on the matter, I am open to suggestions.
Recaro Speeds are really nice seats, assuming you fit into them.:) Recaros are on the narrower side, compared to Italian seats -- this applies to both shells and recliners. Make sure you sit in one before you buy it.
With respect to harnesses, you can run a 5- or 6-point harness with a recliner like Recaro Speed with no problem, if they come with a crotch slot. I suggest you buy them with a slot, even if you plan to use a factory seatbelt or a 4-point harness -- makes them more versatile just in case.
One point of caution on the harnesses: if you don't have a cage or a rollbar, then the harness is usually attached to the back seatbelt mounting points. The problem with that geometry is that shoulder straps are not horizontal, but instead angled down, and can put squishing pressure on your spine when tightened. Especially if you're on the taller side. And especially if you wear a HANS device. At the very least, consider a harness bar, if you want access to the back seat.
Alex
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Originally posted by flipper325es View PostJosh,
Recaro Speeds are really nice seats, assuming you fit into them.:) Recaros are on the narrower side, compared to Italian seats -- this applies to both shells and recliners. Make sure you sit in one before you buy it.
With respect to harnesses, you can run a 5- or 6-point harness with a recliner like Recaro Speed with no problem, if they come with a crotch slot. I suggest you buy them with a slot, even if you plan to use a factory seatbelt or a 4-point harness -- makes them more versatile just in case.
One point of caution on the harnesses: if you don't have a cage or a rollbar, then the harness is usually attached to the back seatbelt mounting points. The problem with that geometry is that shoulder straps are not horizontal, but instead angled down, and can put squishing pressure on your spine when tightened. Especially if you're on the taller side. And especially if you wear a HANS device. At the very least, consider a harness bar, if you want access to the back seat.
Alex
My intention is that if I do go from the standard 3 point harness to a 5 point, a 4 point cage would be employed. Most likely I will go with the VSR roll bar as I really like that setup. I will not use a 5 point without that bar. But at the same time, I don't want to use the 5 point on the street. I would prefer to use the standard 3 point when daily driving and the 5 point on track excursions.
Going with the speeds would also enable me more time to save up for the cage and harnesses until I am ready to use them. so i guess that's a plus. I am open to suggestions for places to buy them other than what google tells me. I am contemplating black with the red logo only because there will be a few red accents in the cabin. As always, I am open to opinions and suggestions.
Today I think i'm going to go and work on the other tail light and paint my euro grills. My kidneys are pretty trashed so I'll probably paint them black to see how it looks. If it's ugly, I'll source some new kidneys. I'll post some pictures later today.-Josh
Check out my build thread...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131055
Need parts? Support the community!
http://www.gutenparts.com
http://www.blunttech.com
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Originally posted by jackbenny View PostMy intention is that if I do go from the standard 3 point harness to a 5 point, a 4 point cage would be employed. Most likely I will go with the VSR roll bar as I really like that setup. I will not use a 5 point without that bar. But at the same time, I don't want to use the 5 point on the street. I would prefer to use the standard 3 point when daily driving and the 5 point on track excursions.
Going with the speeds would also enable me more time to save up for the cage and harnesses until I am ready to use them. so i guess that's a plus. I am open to suggestions for places to buy them other than what google tells me. I am contemplating black with the red logo only because there will be a few red accents in the cabin. As always, I am open to opinions and suggestions.
The issue with any aftermarket seat is that if you want to keep the factory seatbelt, you have to figure out how to attach the buckle recetpacle to the seat (or to the car body). I have both 3-point seatbelts and 4-point Scrhoth harnesses in my street E30, but I have stock sport seats.
The difference between 5- and 6-point harnesses is the attachment of the sub link. On a 5-point, it's a single strap, which requires adding a central attachment point under the seat. On a 6-point, the two crotch links go to the lap belt mounting points, which makes it easier.
Mark MacMahan in Arkon, OH makes some of the best bolt-in roll bars and cages. I've had one in my previous E30, and it fit so tightly that I had to scrape off BMW seam sealer off the floor to make it fit. Take a look at some of the pics in the gallery. The web site is very simple, because Mark doesn't have to advertise: http://www.rollcageguy.com/ VSR would be me 2nd choice. Another good choice, if you want your rollbar welded to the chassis, is Izzy's Custom Cages in St. Louis (although I'd go with MacMahan first): http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/BMWE30Rollbar.html It won't cost much more than the bolt-in type, and will have much better reinforcements/boxing of mounting points, and can go to the rear shock towers instead of wheel wells.
I don't want to hijack your thread, so feel free to drop me a PM when you're ready to start looking at roll bars, seats, seat brackets, and harnesses. I went through the same thing, before building a full-blown race car, and hopefully can save you a few headaches and dollars.
Alex
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Nice looking update josh. Ive been a bit under the weather and now im in orlando, so i havent been able to get to making the valve cover stickers. I will try to get on them when i get back home later this week.
Are you planning on polishing or clearing the tail lights? ive had extremely good luck with polishing them with just some 3m rubbing and polishing compound. No need to get the plastic polish if you already have compound for buffing out cars. Just be careful, its easier to burn the plastic compared to the paint.
Those door panels look great. a bit of a suggestion though. I LOVE contrast in the interior. Would love to see something other than black around the carbon inserts. Maybe tan or a light grey?
When you go for looking at cages talk to me about it. Ive built cages and roll bars in the past for several purpose built racecars. Or if you just need a simple harness bar thats definitally doable as well.-Dan
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Originally posted by flipper325es View PostJosh,
The issue with any aftermarket seat is that if you want to keep the factory seatbelt, you have to figure out how to attach the buckle recetpacle to the seat (or to the car body). I have both 3-point seatbelts and 4-point Scrhoth harnesses in my street E30, but I have stock sport seats.
The difference between 5- and 6-point harnesses is the attachment of the sub link. On a 5-point, it's a single strap, which requires adding a central attachment point under the seat. On a 6-point, the two crotch links go to the lap belt mounting points, which makes it easier.
Mark MacMahan in Arkon, OH makes some of the best bolt-in roll bars and cages. I've had one in my previous E30, and it fit so tightly that I had to scrape off BMW seam sealer off the floor to make it fit. Take a look at some of the pics in the gallery. The web site is very simple, because Mark doesn't have to advertise: http://www.rollcageguy.com/ VSR would be me 2nd choice. Another good choice, if you want your rollbar welded to the chassis, is Izzy's Custom Cages in St. Louis (although I'd go with MacMahan first): http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/BMWE30Rollbar.html It won't cost much more than the bolt-in type, and will have much better reinforcements/boxing of mounting points, and can go to the rear shock towers instead of wheel wells.
I don't want to hijack your thread, so feel free to drop me a PM when you're ready to start looking at roll bars, seats, seat brackets, and harnesses. I went through the same thing, before building a full-blown race car, and hopefully can save you a few headaches and dollars.
Alex
Originally posted by bejbis View PostNice looking update josh. Ive been a bit under the weather and now im in orlando, so i havent been able to get to making the valve cover stickers. I will try to get on them when i get back home later this week.
Are you planning on polishing or clearing the tail lights? ive had extremely good luck with polishing them with just some 3m rubbing and polishing compound. No need to get the plastic polish if you already have compound for buffing out cars. Just be careful, its easier to burn the plastic compared to the paint.
Those door panels look great. a bit of a suggestion though. I LOVE contrast in the interior. Would love to see something other than black around the carbon inserts. Maybe tan or a light grey?
When you go for looking at cages talk to me about it. Ive built cages and roll bars in the past for several purpose built racecars. Or if you just need a simple harness bar thats definitally doable as well.
I considered a different color on the door cards but I am going to stick with black. I will use a red strap for a means to pull the door closed like the 911 RS's use. The steering wheel has red stitching as well so there will be a few red highlights.
I'll be out of town next meeting unfortunately but on the plus side I will be picking up the car from the barn!-Josh
Check out my build thread...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131055
Need parts? Support the community!
http://www.gutenparts.com
http://www.blunttech.com
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This is a great and really informative build thread. I do have 2 important points to make:
1. Unless you are already a parent, you have NO IDEA how true your statement regarding limited time will be (but a HUGE congratulations!!!), and
2. Secondary congratulations for living in the home of Pat White.
Carry on, carry on...
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Originally posted by iwantspeed View Postany more pictures of what you did to your door panels?
PS
Major update forthcoming. Car is back at home...on wheels...looks hot. :p
But I have a wedding anniversary to celebrate tonight so I will try and update tomorrow or Friday.-Josh
Check out my build thread...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131055
Need parts? Support the community!
http://www.gutenparts.com
http://www.blunttech.com
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Super Mega Hyper Ultra Uber Update...Part 1
Yeah, so I said there would be a significant update. Over the past two weekends, significant work has been done to the car. For this post I will update what occurred the first weekend...mainly because I haven't uploaded the pictures from this last weekend.
When we last left off, I was playing with the taillights. Since I had the SEM out, I thought I would start prepping the grills. Sadly I did get so far as to paint them but here they are. I need to acquire more paint though.
I took the chrome off the kidneys for paint though they are pretty trashed. I will probably paint them black and if I don't like the look, pick up some chrome ones later on.
I will also freshen up the euro grills as well.
I was still focused on the taillights though because I wanted to mount them on the car for the return trip, mainly so it would be 2 less holes to tape up. With the first lamp finished, I started taping the other lense.
A thorough retaping was required for the next part. Here I followed the directions in the FAQ for going with all Red Tails.
I sprayed the amber portion first, removed the tape and covered the remainder of the lens with the recommended metalcast. The paint went on smoothly and came out very nice.
Here is the other lens waiting to be taped up. You can see the thin black lines between the lenses.
Multiple coats were applied for the transparent red. Probably a total of 3 to 4 medium wet coats.
Here is one light with the red applied, but no urethane clear applied yet:
And a little side by side action to see the difference. The red turned out to be a bit darker than stock. I have pictures of it on the car that I'll post later on.
Most of the lamp work occurred at home but 2 weekends ago I had the chance to run out to the barn and prepare the car for the return trip home. I managed to combine some of the most hated tasks to be performed on an E30 into two trips. Job 1...Headliner.
We all know what a pain it is to install the headliner in these cars. Nonetheless, I ordered an alcantera headliner from Kevin Chinn and it came out great. Don't hesitate to use his business and participate in his group buy. Since my father installed the headliner in his 911 and it went in a similar manner, I employed his services for the installation.
Gotta slip in the suspension bars...
The headliner is stretched around the rear windows and glued. We retained the headliner with binder clips until we were satisfied with the position before the glue. Your fingers will ache after this process. It is tedious, frustrating and nerve wracking.
There are many suggestions for glue. We ended up using the 3m weatherstripping adhesive as dad had good luck with it in the past. Reading the warning label essentially gave me cancer with the amount of bad it could do so I sent my pregnant wife out of the barn for the rest of the day.
After the rear window we concentrated on the C-Pillars making our way forward.
Thats dust on the headliner, not glue. It brushes off but there was quite a bit in the air to contend with.
You have to keep stretching the fabric to eliminate the wrinkles. This is the most frustrating part of the job because stretching the fabric may eliminate wrinkles in one spot only to introduce them to another.
Putting in the window seals also stretches the fabric and eliminates the wrinkles as well. Here we put in brand new rear window rubber to see the effect.
And we dropped in the back glass to cut down on the dust.
With the glass in, we were looking for a distraction so we hung the doors. Installing the headliner was pretty intense, minimal talking, methodical movements and just a general "PLEASE DON'T SCREW THIS UP!!!!" Made hanging the doors real easy, ya know?
But it is definitely coming along...
This concluded day one....-Josh
Check out my build thread...
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131055
Need parts? Support the community!
http://www.gutenparts.com
http://www.blunttech.com
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