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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
    No riveted solution for the IAT? Disappointed.
    LOL I saw this coming to be honest hahaha, I was wondering why no one was surprised why I welded the exhaust instead of rivet it.

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  • hkv
    replied
    engine bay pics

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    working on the fuel system as well. I ran an -8an line for the vent/rollover valve port on the fuel cell. no pics of that but I started on the fpr

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    so I stopped on that because im not sure if I want to:

    A- run the feed/return line in the cabin(would have to cover with a shroud)
    B- run the feed/return line on the inside of the passenger side frame rail(close to the exhaust so heat is a concern)
    C- run the feed/return line on the outside of the passenger side frame rail( have to worry about clearance with the suspension components)

    im pretty much settled on option c but wanted more time to think about it.

    once I get all this type of stuff set up then I pull the motor and everything else and paint the underside and the engine bay for good. then reassemble hopefully for good.

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  • hkv
    replied
    I said i wasnt at all looking forward to welding aluminum but atleast in this case it wasn't that bad at all and actually turned out pretty awesome.

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    I dare say I did better than whoever welded my intercooler
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    the guy who did my radiator however has me beat lol

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    so heres the end result

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    No riveted solution for the IAT? Disappointed.

    Leave a comment:


  • hkv
    replied
    decided to try finishing up my cone filter adapter with IAT. \

    turned the bung down to set it into the pipe

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    decide to turn it down more and mill entirely through the adapter to get the sensor deeper into the pipe

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    so that works out pretty good

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    cleaned up the aluminum with solvent and hoping I don't mess up welding the aluminum.
    tungsten looks cool after you ball it up with DCEP, probably balled it up a bit too much.

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  • hkv
    replied
    getting close on the tanks firewall. now I just have the front section to deal with

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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    With the pick up in front of the tank do you think you'll have fuel starvation issues?

    I assume the subframe isn't to much further back to rotate the fuel cell 180*


    Also may want to save a spot for the Main hoop to touch down somewhere in there if you revisit that?


    Exciting progress!
    I hope I wont have any starvation issues. im using a holley hydramat fuel pickup and supposedly as long as its in contact with fuel it will pull fuel, ive never used one before but they are supposed to be really good.

    if I revisit a cage ill just modify what I need too but im not a hardcore racer either. my local track is decently low speed and ill probably also do autocross maybe, nothing too extreme planned.

    thanks man.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    With the pick up in front of the tank do you think you'll have fuel starvation issues?

    I assume the subframe isn't to much further back to rotate the fuel cell 180*


    Also may want to save a spot for the Main hoop to touch down somewhere in there if you revisit that?


    Exciting progress!

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  • hkv
    replied
    so originally I was planning to have a firewall tightly wrapped around the fuel cell because I want some protection from it in the cabin but then I had a eureka moment because doing that I would have had to leave the filler cap open to the cabin. what I decided to do is make a little compartment that completely seperates the fuel cell from the cabin but still allows me to fill it up by opening the passenger side rear door.

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    so you can see how it works. door closed ill have it sealed off from the cabin. door open and I can fit a gas nozzle in there and fill her up. no problem

    Attached Files

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  • hkv
    replied
    making the frame for the fuel cell, I have several mounting points riveted to the car and then I weld the fuel cell mounting brackets to the riveted mounting points. I tried welding straight to the car but it kept catching on fire and even with 1/16th rods I experienced burn through and lack of penetration so I went back to the rivets.

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    fuel cell in its nice little frame. very very snug in there, doesn't move hardly any.


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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
    Enjoying the rough function over form nature of the build as well as the non traditional powerplant. This is entertaining! I too am a fan of the rivet/aero aesthetic.

    Subbed
    thanks man! im glad your enjoying the build style and direction and that you subbed. you subbed just in time if your a fan of rivets lol check out my new update.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sh3rpak!ng
    replied
    Enjoying the rough function over form nature of the build as well as the non traditional powerplant. This is entertaining! I too am a fan of the rivet/aero aesthetic.

    Subbed

    Leave a comment:


  • hkv
    replied
    didn't spend much time in the shop tonight but I made subframe spacers and they came out good. im still waiting on my order of metric fasteners but what im wondering is if I should mill the spacers down as thin as possible to just barely clear the oil pan or if the roughly 3/8" clearance I have between the subframe and the oil pan is not enough to be worth it.

    my understanding is that subframe spacers aren't good for ride quality, that they increase bump steer. so should I go to the trouble to squeeze another ~0.5" of clearance by modifying the steering rack mount and milling down the spacers or it even going to make a difference? anything else I should know about the spacers?

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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    If you do a cage you could always mount the colum off the dash bar.

    Now if you set all the way back would you be able to do floor mount pedals?

    just an idea to battle deflection
    what worries me about floor mount pedals is that I imagine they get in the way because I like to rest my feet on the floor board and maybe even drag them a bit on the floor board when using the pedals, maybe not drag but I feel like the mount of the floor mount would get in the way of my feet.

    I already have the willwood pedal box and I know they work good because I have the same one on another car and I will bet that deflection wont be an issue because im using good strong steel to mount it to the car. if you see on my earlier pic of the pedal box, im pretty sure that's 2"x3" 3/16" angle iron. very very strong stuff and I will weld/rivet a couple of steel braces to make sure its very rigid. I already welded some smaller angle iron to the car for the pedal box and its solid.

    Leave a comment:


  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by rzerob View Post

    It is the least I can do for all of the entertainment you are providing me. I am really enjoying this build. Keep up the good work.
    very happy to hear your enjoying it dude

    Leave a comment:

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