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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
    Maybe left offset the pedals or consider moving the seat and pedals aft.
    from my perspective the possible alternative would be to move all the pedals to the left and back towards the driverside engine bay wheel well. I cant move the pedals or the seat back towards the rear of the car because then it would mess up my reach to the steering wheel. although I may get a steering wheel that comes out farther so that I can move my seat back to more comfortably use the pedals. but then that kinda puts the steering wheel up higher which it doesn't need to be.

    im gonna look into moving everything left and forward and see if I can tuck it into the left side of the foot well. that way I will have more room to extend my leg, my legs will be angled left rather than straight forward but that's not a big deal

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    What about a floor mount setup?

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Maybe left offset the pedals or consider moving the seat and pedals aft.

    Leave a comment:


  • hkv
    replied
    I knew the drivers side firewall was gonna be a pain but now after dealing with throttle and the pedal box I can tell its gonna be a major PITA. i will git er done though.

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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
    How’s the seating position with the shifter that for back?

    Did you have to move the pedals?
    well naturally what im doing is adjusting stuff that can be easily adjusted to work with stuff that cant be adjusted. for example I cant easily adjust the position of the steering wheel so im basing my seating position, shifter position and pedal position off of that. lucking I can move the shifter up 2" or 4" up from where it is right now and I probably will switch to a straight shifter from the angled shifter ive got right now to get a better shifter position.

    what im not going to be able to get in an ideal position is the pedals because unfortunately in this context I am pretty tall. I am using a wildwood pedal box because I have previous experience with them and I know they work good for applications like these. because the engine intrudes so deeply into the cabin I am only barely able to get the throttle in an acceptable location and the throttle really determines the location of the clutch and the brake pedal because they cant be in wildly different positions; I want to atleast somewhat be able to heel and toe. so this is what the situation is looking like right now.




    throttle just barely clears the intake manifold, bellhousing, tunnel ect... this is about as good as the position gets unless i were going to move everything to the left side of the foot well which would have its own issues

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    this is pretty much what im looking at, my legs are gonna be a little bent up but ive tested it, it will be acceptable. unfortunately I cant mount the brake forward of the throttle to facilitate heel and toeing because my legs already have to bend pretty good to reach the throttle.

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    obviously the final location of the pedals will be a little bit higher than they are in the pic but this what were looking at and it will work just not ideal for a guy my height because I don't want my arms too extended to reach the steering wheel. obviously once the car is driving I can look into a steering wheel that comes out farther and then adjust the pedals out more to better match the throttle but that's something to worry about once everything's put together

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    How’s the seating position with the shifter that for back?

    Did you have to move the pedals?

    Leave a comment:


  • hkv
    replied
    pic of the radiator support all mounted up

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    made the intercooler mounting brackets, intercooler sits on the original radiator support.

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    trimmed the radiator shroud a bit more and riveted the bottom of it to the bottom of the radiator. then riveted the top of the radiator shroud to the car and it really tucks the radiator and its shroud in nice and tight

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    so with that all this stuff up front is pretty much taken care of, done with that on to the next one.
    Last edited by hkv; 09-12-2019, 12:47 AM.

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  • hkv
    replied
    making a lower radiator support with some rubber and some flat bar

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    put some bends in it for clearance

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    rivet it to the car

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  • hkv
    replied
    got the intercooler piping sorted out

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    on the passengers side I used a tube I got from the control pack that I cut up.

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  • hkv
    replied
    doing some lathework to make an adapter that will allow me to put a cone filter on my air inlet pipe because the airbox I got with the control pack will not fit at all. ive got to use this IAT sensor so that's why im making the adaptor with this bung for the IAT sensor. not at all looking forward to welding aluminum TBH.

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    other than that not too much progress to show but I did bend the fuel cell hangars as well. but heres a interior pic to show from when i was checking out pedal location. by sheer luck the transmission and the shifter ended up in a good spot and the shift lever seems to be in a good spot aswell.

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    may end up switching to a straight shift lever from this angled one depending on how everything works out but for now it seems really nice and its kinda trippy to sit in a seat with the steering wheel and shifter. makes me feel like things are moving along and they are but im hoping wiring wont be too difficult, well see. suspension and running the brake lines and all that should be pretty easy

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  • hkv
    replied
    went to the metal store and the driveshaft shop and got the driveshaft balanced. they were kind enough to paint it too

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    as you guys know by now; im a fan of rivets

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    double checked the angle of the diff and we are in business. about 2 deg so powertrain placement is finalized. motor mounts coming soon.

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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by rzerob View Post
    He can always weld it too when he is done if he felt like it.
    yeah if have any rivets fail I might do that but that's not gonna happen no matter how hard I beat it up on the track. that's my prediction, well see what happens though who knows

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  • rzerob
    replied
    He can always weld it too when he is done if he felt like it.

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  • hkv
    replied
    Originally posted by hasa View Post

    When you have already proven to be very skilled welder... this riveting looks little bit odd solution. But if it works technically... why not.
    dang man I appreciate that, I am a big welding enthusiast and I like welding stuff but for thin sheet metal like this riveting is really a better choice IMO. I explain in my unapproved flagged for spam response to lowrev'in that riveting is cheaper, faster, easier and generally ends up looking better than welding in this application. just as strong as welding depending on how its done too.

    even if I did low amp tig which would actually be pretty freaking cool now that I think about it, burn through would be a concern and the prep work would be a pain because having any significant gaps and your joints gonna keyhole. using small stick electrodes would be the other alternative and with that burn through would be even more of a concern but more so than that it would take a fair amount of time to clean up and make it look nice unless I did a super good job.

    now that you have me thinking about it I may give welding a try in some parts of the drivers side firewall if I feel like itd be a good idea over rivets due to the curves and space restrictions

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  • hasa
    replied
    Originally posted by hkv View Post
    thanks for the comment. what would you do?
    When you have already proven to be very skilled welder... this riveting looks little bit odd solution. But if it works technically... why not.

    Leave a comment:

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