It’s either the cam seal or the rocker shaft plug. I take no chance et replace all four rocker plug and cam seals. So I’ve remove everything to get accès to the cam seal. It is exactly the same job as a timing belt job . But I was so happy ! I mean , who is happy to put 4 hour of labor for a second time and on a brand new timing belt job ? That was nothing for me after I réalise it was not my HG leaking haha! 
And after remove the cam seal housing , it was clear that the leak was from there . Look at how square the oring is and + , I found a crack on the housing 
Im lucky to have a spare engine to get spare part as this one 
So new seals are ordered and the quest continue !
I’ve put a brand new oil filter on the engine $$moneyshot haha.. I also receive my water/methanol kit ! I will install it later but here’s the kit : AEM 30-3300 V3 
Then, it was the time for the Downpipe. Since the hx35 has a v-band exaust flange 2.5”, in order to make my 3” downpipe, it needed to be modifi. I cut the hx flange and weld an extension + vband flange 
After , was the time for the DIY pie cut cutting (On the picture , the cut are very rough , everything was been smoothed and chanfern grind for proper weld) 
Weld is standard mig welding and exaust materiel is standard 3“ pipe. Everything was weld completely and grind at 80% for a ... "better look" 
Then I ceramic coat it , and wrapped it with exaust wrap 
Look good with the wrap ! After that , I put the turbo blanket and install the downpipe 
The new Nissens radiator finally arrive , I install it , put new bmw coolant ht-12, and here is the almost finish engine bay look! 
I’ve take my oem power steering line to a machine shop to be extended about 3” since the stock length was not enough because the coil new location . 
Ok so now I was thrive ! Let’s start the engine !! 30 seconde later engine dosent start .. the coil was extremely hot . After 4 day and 12-14hours of search I found the problème and this is something you should remember ! When I extended the coil wire , I see that this wire is shielded , I mean , from exterior to interio the wire is compose : rubber ,thin wire , aluminium , rubber , copper . Something I didn’t know was that the thin wire around the aluminimum shied is grounded all the time . And it was making contact with the copper wire. That’s made the coil « grounded » and the Ecu was not sending signal to the coil . It probably could be very bad ! So , since I’ve got a spare harness , I take the most I can of the oem coil wire and here I show you how is it hook from the factory . 
For the proper extending operation , I have solder the thin wire to my harness , and the copper separately and make sure it don’t contact with the copper , then isolate carefully and seal everything . I don’t really know the purpose of the shielding but I thing I was a good thing to keep it ! After that , the engine start but very roughly , the base map on Megasquirt is for stock engine , it run very rough and very rich , I need to make a lot of base tuning to make it run properly but hey ! It’s alive !! 
Now the bad news . Yesterday I found that the brand new oem HG from the dealer directly , is leaking oil . The arp stud was torqued down to 70ft/lb in 3 step , in good order to 70ft/lb with a brand new gear wrench digital . And after a total of 4 min of idling , I already have the worst leak possible on a engine . Im devastated .. I’ve remove the valve cover to check for a loose head stud and unfortunately they were all good . So I à torque then back to 74ft/lb. Did something like this happen to someone ? Did we can torque more than 70 fr/lb ? I’ve seen people torque them over 80 a couple of time .. Please ! Tell me I don’t need to start from The beginning !!!
The other day I was looking at how I will make the downpipe and dump tube for the wastegate and I réalise, it to tight . At first I didn’t want to cut anything more in the bay , but I have no choice ..I have to make room for the 3” DP 
As you can see , I also install the mishimoto compact catch can . I made the braket myself since the one provide does not suit my location.. The engine bay is almost at his final look ! 
Then was the time for the megasquirt . It took way much time than expected and I don’t even have the final result to show you . Anyway , important to say , I want the Megasquirt in the same spot of the oem ecu , and I also want fixed the same way the oem ecu. This is a little challenge because the MS is bigger . 
Since it is « plug and play » I don’t have many wiring to make . The oem connector fit directly onto the megasquirt , good thing ! But since I want the WB and the boost solenoid to be control by the MS , I have to use the « option connector » and pin it the right way following this chart 
For the boost solenoid i use the pin 6 and 7. For the WB I use the pin 21-22 
The oem bracket for the Ecu do not fit with the MS , it is to small. So I made Custom braket out of aluminum sheet 
I do not have the final result pictures because I’m waiting to receive the DB9->usb wire that I want to be permanently connected to the MS. This is it for now Next : Put back radiator and hoses ——plumb the wastegate with the solenoid——make the downpipe——make the dumptube—— make the setting in tuner studio ton suit my mod and try to start the engine !
I’ve seen other route for the plumbing but my wastegate have 2 port , I think this is the best way. If anyone avec any clue about the plumbing , I’m open ! Haha
I made a vacuum distributor . The goal of this is to make all the vacuum at one place instead of everywhere in the engine bay . Trying to avoid the spaghetti look lol ...! 
Port is : One IN -blow off, -ecu -boost gage -one spare blocked. 
I still dosent understand why some e30 have 1vacuum for the brake booster and some have 2.. in my case there are two so I route 2 vacuum line to the check valve 
If you look carefully , I put the relay box with the brake fluid . Now time to wired and install the Wideband and the boost solenoid 
Electricity and wiring is really not my cup of tea.. it take so much time and most of the time, it doesn’t look good . To be continued !
I have receive my new clutch , Spec stage 2+ , rated for 400wtq. 
Also remove/replace the pilot bearing with the bread tricks , work very well, took about 1 min to get out! 
Then , install the flywheel and the clutch , but no pictures.. alors put back the trans on the engine and put back the engine in ! 
Now time to plug back everything and works on the electronic mod for the turbo/megasquirt..!
I still not receive my clutch kit so the engine can’t go back in place . I have spend some time on the gauge . Autometer boost gauge and AEM wideband. To keep a « stock » looking I went with the vent pod. Unfortunately the wideband have a bigger bezel and do not fit so I have to grind a little de vent pod. Since it not usual gauge pod , I have to make braket to hold them in place . They are in place temporary just for the test fit ! 
For now , I don’t now if I had other gauge but if I need it , I don’t where I will put them.. maybe an oil press and oil temps .. I have painted the hood hinges 
I also spend lots of time on the valence and the venting of the rad/oil cooler/intercooler . I made some wind deflector like oem but in aluminium for more strenghness and to fit the new components . 
Then add the IC and OC 
Time for cutting the valence . I not pictured all the trimming I have so but it have here and there grinding and trimming to fit in place . Cut the center for venting and cut the « line » in the middle of the IC for a better look. 
Now , it just need some little body work and paint to a oem look! This is it for now. Next : -Made wind deflector for the lower portion of the valence with the IC. -installer the fender -valence bodywork/paint -start wiring the gauge
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