The MR E30 Project Thread - E36 M3 Edition

[MR E30 325is]

Nice progress thus far! Looks extremely clean under the dirt. I had a shop press in all the rear bushings and ball joints. They even said with their kits it was a bit of a pita. I like the chase bays setup, keep us updated!

Thank you. I'm glad that it's getting warmer, because I can work on this thing daily!

The pressure washer and foam cannon are great tools for cleaning the underside and engine bay. The engine bay has lots of areas that have had the paint worn through them. So whenever they exterior gets repainted (either by me or a professional) I'll have the engine bay addressed at the same time. But for now it is great.

I wasn't overly burdened by the swap, but I have got to have one of the cleanest, most rust-free chassis, on an E36, so literally nothing is binding or stuck. No seized bolts, no locked in clips or sensors, nothing. So everything just pops out and then back in.

Thank! They make great stuff in my limited experience with them. Hopefully Vorschlag is the same, as they are getting more and more of my money each week!

[MR E30 325is]

May 26th, 2021

A small bit of overall progress, but a decent amount of time, has been accomplished since the last update.

I learned all about the C5 Corvette Fuel Filter/FPR combo before installing it. It is used with a 'returnless' rail, as the FPR is within the one body of the overall piece. Two lines on the "inlet"/fuel tank side, one is 3/8" (this receives the input from the fuel pump, located in passenger side of tank) and a 5/16" return line (this is connected to the drivers side of the fuel tank where the level sender is located). There is a single 3/8" output.

The two connections on the input side were simply soft hose connected between the hard lines (one shortened) and the filter. EFI hose clamps were used, and all worm type hose connectors throughout the rear of the car were swapped over to this appropriate clamp.

The output is an AN fitting, and I will continue the AN up to the fuel rail as it is a single hose and won't be expensive or difficult to figure out.

I used the OEM fuel filter mount, painted black, and wrapped a piece of sticky foam around the filter/fpr to ensure a nice, snug fit to the chassis.

Very happy with how this turned out. Once I swap in the Walbro 400lph (need this size to feed the 80lb Deka injectors recommended for this swap) that should arrive this week into the fuel tank I will test the pump and lines with a car battery to ensure everything up to the output of the filter/fpr is functioning properly.

M3 Work Round 8 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

That involved a lot of getting under the car and back out to get things done appropriately, but it is worth it.

With that done the rear end went back on the ground, finally.

I immediately put the front end in the air to get it up to snuff.

In went the rebuilt calipers, torqued to 81 ft*lbs. I removed the OEM hard lines to both front wheel wells and ran the Chase Bays AN lines to the mounting points in the front of the wheel wells. Recleaned both front wheel wells with the pressure washer and foam cannon. ABS sensors, with the wires cut at the sensor, went back into each hub to protect from erroneous debris. Installation of the stainless steel brakes lines to the AN lines was a piece of cake.

Front swaybar was reinstalled, only to discover this issue

M3 Work Round 8 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

OEM swaybar end link is much too long to use with my FK coilovers.

So I headed to NAPA after doing some internet research and picked up a few different end links from various cars to test out.

The winner ended up being a pair from a 2000 Chevy Impala SS. Fitment is pretty darn spot on, they fit the area well, and the are greaseable to boot! I picked up the items necessary to transform the OEM BMW set into an adjustable set, but was satisfied with this setup to avoid messing with those. For now.

M3 Work Round 8 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Now I need to go pick up the LM7 from the Garage Mahal and get it dropped off at Coconino Motors for its professional cleaning and look over, camshaft seal replacement, crankshaft polish and inspection, main bearings, and installation of the F-body oil pan kit that I purchased a long time ago.

After that I'll drop it in and start ordering accessories to get it completed.

Slowly but surely.

Approximate Hours Invested in Project Since Purchase: 382

[MR E30 325is]

June 3rd, 2021

Another small update.

Went ahead and disassembled, checked, cleaned, and reinstalled the fuel level sender on the drivers side of the fuel tank beneath the back seat.

It all looked great, no damaged wires or corroded parts. I didn't buy a new one, but if it doesn't work for some reason I'll get it replaced once the car is running.

M3 Work Round 10 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

My Walbro 400lph came in the mail after a slight delay. I need to disassemble the fuel pump side of the tank, clean it, install this new pump, and reassemble. Might do that this afternoon. If not I'll do it next week after I get back into town.

M3 Work Round 10 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

A small package from ECS Tuning arrived containing clips for the front M sill plates, the door sill trim, and body plugs as well as Genuine BMW brake fluid for the brake system.

M3 Work Round 10 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Got those installed easily.

I am in conversation with Monster Clutches about the appropriate clutch setup to grab for my particular build. Once that is discussed I'll get one of their clutches on order.

I am also researching more and realize I need to upgrade the clutch slave cylinder to an aluminum version to function correctly with the Vorschlag hydraulic T56 throw out bearing. My M3 came with the nylon version, which is not compatible. Watched a video and crawled under the dash and realized, while uncomfortable, it won't be overly difficult to replace.

So I'll order that, the T56-LS1 aluminum bellhousing and modified TOB setup from them after I hear back about the clutch.

On a side note, did the BHLM (black headlight mod) to my 2021 Tacoma and it really changed the look of the front end of the truck. The process is difficult, but worth it.
M3 Work Round 10 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

M3 Work Round 10 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Still need to get the LM7 to the machine shop, but I am thinking I can get it over there next week. Life's been a bit busy!

Approximate Hours Invested in Project Since Purchase: 393

[MR E30 325is]

Received confirmation from Monster Clutches as to the validity of my setup.

Ordered Aluminum F-Body Bellhousing, remote bleeder for E36, and aluminum slave cylinder from Vorschlag.

Then ordered the Monster S Twin Disc Clutch for F-Bodies from Monster Clutch.

All that is left is the T56 Magnum-F from Vorschlag, and the transmission portion of the build will be purchased. I'll order that next week.

Now I really need the LM7 cleaned up! Tranny and engine mounts arrive tomorrow.

[MR E30 325is]

June 7th, 2021

More progress has been made while expensive parts are on order.

Started by getting my clutch feed line connected to the Wilwood brake fluid reservoir. I picked a location that let the Chase Bays line flow naturally. Used a 1/2" bit to drill through the plastic, and a crescent wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the connector to the reservoir.

M3 Work Round 11 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Tossed it back on the master cylinder and connected the clutch slave feed hose.

Got nice and comfy in the drivers side footwell and pulled the old nylon bodied master cylinder from up in the pedal bracket area. Came out easy enough, and I cleaned all the various bits that are a part of that system. I'm trying to figure out why I didn't address this while the dash was out, but I can't remember why. Oh well, either way it's getting worked on now!

I'll need a new grommet for the master cylinder penetration through the firewall, as the old one was falling apart and very sticky. I'll get that on order tonight.

I dove into the fuel pump next.

The car had a Walbro 340lph in it from the previous owner and the S54 swap, so the assembly was modified slightly to install that pump.

Though the wiring was not up to par, so I pulled the old pump and wiring and set it aside.

M3 Work Round 11 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I'll use the stock pins to use the stock connector in the backseat.

I cleaned it up before beginning the modification of the aluminum sleeve that houses the pump. The PO had cut it along its length, which came in handy for me. However, the Walbro 400lph has a fatter bottom section, so I cut ~2 inches off of the aluminum sleeve to make it fit.

After that I used a thin piece of rubber between the pump and the sleeve to make it a tight fit once I snap the white plastic piece onto the aluminum sleeve.

Connected the wiring to the pump, then soldered and crimped the wire connector onto the OEM pins (all of the wire had been snipped off by the PO). Installed a piece of fuel hose and EFI clamps, put the sock on, placed the assembly in the tank, and secured everything in place. It took a while to get it figured out and done to my liking, but I think it came out great.

M3 Work Round 11 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

I then went and picked up the LM7 from the Garage Mahal.

Bobcat loaded it into the back of the truck with ease. Strapped it down so I can transport it to the machine shop (after I remove extraneous bolts and throw them into labeled bags). I have everything ready (except for the -10 AN fitting I am having welded to the F-body oil pan I purchased for the turbo oil return line) to take over to the machine shop.

They won't do a ton of work to the engine, but they will clean it and look it over to make sure it won't explode when I first fire it up. The engine turns over well, at the appropriate torque with the heads off, so I'm confident that it's in good shape, but the extra piece of mind won't hurt. Plus I bought a huge gasket set that I'd like to use up as well. No oil leaks for me.

M3 Work Round 11 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

While I was picking up the engine I spent a couple hours helping swap a new small block chevy in place of an older gen 1 small block chevy that has a flat cam. Bobcat made that a piece of cake too.

M3 Work Round 11 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Wrapped up the day by receiving my one of many packages from Vorshlag.

M3 Work Round 11 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

These things are pretty. The powder coat is thick, the welding is spot on. The fitment between bushing and plate is also very high quality. I like the parts very much. Two gripes though:

1) No instructions. You think for over $1,000 I'd get at least a sheet of paper that tells me how they go in. I know I'll discover it along the way, but when it comes time to load the engine and transmission in, I'd like the peace of mind of knowing that things are already in in the correct orientation. Now I'll go searching through pictures online to figure out how to install them.
2) Not part specific, but Vorshlag in general. No discounts or sales of any kind. Ever. Not that they have to, I just think it's lame as hell. Almost every other company I deal with, and all the overlanding companies I deal with, offer discounts to Veterans, first responders, police officers, teachers, etc. Hell, I run a small business that is just getting started and I give discounts to fellow vets, among others. The clutch I ordered for this monster came with free shipping (50 lb shipping weight) due to a military discount. Alright, rant over.

Clutch arrives this Thursday. Engine goes to machine shop tomorrow. Transmission gets ordered this week. Transmission parts from Vorshlag arrive as soon as they send me a tracking number.

Good things await. Excited to have the drivetrain installed in the car, because I can then again begin the process of getting all of the tiny details in order.

Approximate Hours Invested in Project Since Purchase: 408

[e30m3s54turbo]

Nice.
Are you going to install a v8?

[ZEKTI]

Glad to see progress is moving along! That fuel pump hose looked pretty sketchy. Haven't heard anything bad about Vorshalg's product though. FWIW Brentech's LS Swap mounts are $580ish USD. But have to ship from Aussie.

[MR E30 325is]

Nice.
Are you going to install a v8?

Yes, Small block Chevy, LM7, 5.3l Iron V8 from a Chevy Tahoe.

[MR E30 325is]

Glad to see progress is moving along! That fuel pump hose looked pretty sketchy. Haven't heard anything bad about Vorshalg's product though. FWIW Brentech's LS Swap mounts are $580ish USD. But have to ship from Aussie.

Thanks! It's about to slow down a bit, as the machine shop will take a bit, and the delivery of transmission parts will also take a while.

Their stuff is definitely great quality, no doubt.

Thanks for that info about Brentech. I like the Vorshlag setup because you don't have to beat up your firewall or trans tunnel to get it to fit, and the T56 Magnum F will be almost perfectly placed in the shifter hole. That was a huge plus for me.

[e30m3s54turbo]

Yes, Small block Chevy, LM7, 5.3l Iron V8 from a Chevy Tahoe.

How much power are you seeking?

[MR E30 325is]

How much power are you seeking?

Great question.

Completely unmodified internals, with an LS6 intake (which I will need to clear the hood), and a large throttle body, with the Hooker turbo exhaust system and turbo I will be using, these engines will put down over 600 bhp at ~11 psi.

The entire drivetrain is being built/purchased to the 1,000 rwhp limit.

In reality, with the tuning software, integrated tablet, and electronic wastegate I will be using, the M3 will have a few levels of power:

- Valet mode - No boost, 2,000 rpm limit, will require passcode to leave valet mode. I will NEVER hand this over to a valet, but it's a cool feature that's available, so why not set it up.

- Stage Zero - 4 psi, used for when I don't feel like getting in trouble or just a relaxing drive when I'm in that mood. Not sure how often this will be used.

- Stage One - 11 psi, this will put me into the 500rwhp range, spirited driving, showing off, track days, etc. Will probably default to this stage.

- Stage Two - 20 or so psi, this will put me much, much higher in the rwhp range, though not sure what that number is at the moment. This will be for those extreme situations, smashing high end cars at the track or on the freeway.

- Stage 1000 - Whatever it takes to get this car to make 4 digits worth of horsepower at the crank. 25 psi is the maximum safe limit for a well functioning, unopened (i.e. stock internals) LM7. I'll add E85 and flex fuel sensor, meth, nitrous, whatever it takes to get a printout that says my 97 M3 made over 1,000 hp on a dyno. I'll never use this ever again, I just want that printout.

[2mAn]

- Stage 1000 - Whatever it takes to get this car to make 4 digits worth of horsepower at the crank. 25 psi is the maximum safe limit for a well functioning, unopened (i.e. stock internals) LM7. I'll add E85 and flex fuel sensor, meth, nitrous, whatever it takes to get a printout that says my 97 M3 made over 1,000 hp on a dyno. I'll never use this ever again, I just want that printout.

Must have a video of this dyno also...

[MR E30 325is]

Must have a video of this dyno also...

Oh, you know it.

For motivation, this E36 M3 is pretty darn close.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qmfI08Q__A

[MR E30 325is]

June 9th, 2021

Alright, so slight change of plans.

Local machine shop had a change of heart after having two separate conversations with them. Apparently, the only way they will touch the engine is if every part gets replaced, as they want to ensure the engine functions properly after the teardown. I can understand wanting to have a solid reputation, but telling me you need to replace each piston due to their age isn't why I went with this swap anyways. The iron 5.3 is supposed to be reliable and bulletproof right out of a wrecked Chevy.

So, after having a conversation with a friend who knows these engines well, I decided on a new route.

To start, added a late 90's-early 2000's Chevy 2500 to the notification list that the local junkyard sends out to my email. This vehicle has the coveted LQ4 or LQ9 in it, the 6.0l Iron V8. It's very easy to have high horsepower while being reliable with this engine.

So, when the JY gets one of those I'll pull it and have it fully rebuilt by the pros to install in the M3 at some future date.

Back to the LM7. I will be leaving the rotating assembly in place, untouched, replacing the small things folks recommend (pushrods, head to block alignment pins, etc.), and cleaning the outside of the engine.

And that's it. I'll leave it like that and run it as it is. If the engine is unsuitable, I will notice low oil pressure when I first start it. They don't explode, or go off the hinges, just low oil pressure. If that's the case I'll figure out what to do at that point in time. But for now, progress!

To work on the block I purchased an engine stand from Harbor Freight, and I borrowed an engine hoist from a friend.

I didn't have the right bolts to connect the block to the stand, so I began phase 1 of the cleaning process while the engine was on the hoist.

Not a terrible amount of nasty grease, as most of it is filled with dirt, so it wasn't too messy, but still a pain in my butt.

Passenger side.

Engine Work Round 1 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

After ~2.5 hours the engine was 3-4 lb. lighter from all the grime being freed from its shell.

Engine Work Round 1 by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Phase two may occur tomorrow, if not next week. It will involve simple green and rags to get the block as tidy as possible.

Then, new oil pan kit and head installation. Need to order ARP studs to make that happen though.

'til next time!

Approximate Hours Invested in Project Since Purchase: 419

[e30m3s54turbo]

That will be a beast to drive with a v8 turbo. I’m doing a s38 turbo in my red m3. Hoping to around 600-700.