No E30 Project '95 F-150 - Extra Credit

[2mAn]

No need to wait for warm weather, just put on your swim trunks and challenge yourself to completely service the brakes before you turn in to a popsicle. You can probably do it.

Definitely put it on Facebook live haha... of course none of us will see it but at least we can say we knew you

[roguetoaster]

Hey! I just received pads and rotors in the mail for my truck. Just waiting on a snow free warmish day to install. I am inspired.

No need to wait for warm weather, just put on your swim trunks and challenge yourself to completely service the brakes before you turn in to a popsicle. You can probably do it.

[Reichart12]

Hey! I just received pads and rotors in the mail for my truck. Just waiting on a snow free warmish day to install. I am inspired.

[roguetoaster]

Did the front wheel bearings/seals, and replaced the front brakes.



Checking that components will work, and took of the brake backing plate to check the spindle. Rusty, with a bit of taper wear, which I will assume is 100% within operating spec.





Installed new Timken parts, and decided to remove the preinstalled races that came with the cheap Chinese rotors just to be safe. One of the preinstalled races was in poor shape, and couldn't go all the way in thanks to a pile of swarf, so glad I did go the lazy route.



Installed both sides, but didn't really snap pics since anyone who has done this job knows the grease factor is high.




One side of the DS rotor was destroyed, but the pads were fine, which means they were replaced even after someone saw that rotor. The bearings were not original, judging by the steel casing on the outer, and they certainly showed some signs of wear. The grease was just on another level of dirty, and it was well past time considering how the bearings had moved just about all lubricant out of the tapered surfaces.

BONUS ROUND

Took apart a Briggs and Stratton engine on a friends lawnmower which showed no compression. Found something I did not expect.




Yes, a valve seat was completely out of position.



So, I cleaned everything up in the parts washer, and between original components, and another spare (also broken) engine I'll hopefully make one working engine.




That's where I left it since I need to borrow a valve spring compressor tool.

[roguetoaster]

Well, time for an update. Replaced the steering linkage, excluding the pittman arm, replaced all of the ball joints, and lubed the caliper sliders.




The ball joint tool worked well. Lower BJ is circlipped, upper is only pressed in.



Looks pretty.



Clean the tapers slightly.



Now almost forgot the zerk.



Done with one. Check the video for the DS bearing check.



DS came off with no difficulty, couldn't use the pickle fork I had for either, so just tapped them out.




Seems fine...orders more parts.



Pretty close, different shape on one link, not enough to worry me.





Note that someone serviced one set of ball joints before. Although the internet says the lower ball joint is splined that does not appear to be the case, and that would lead me to believe that the lower on the PS was just barely in there, mainly being retained by the circlip. On that note, circlip pliers are for suckers, two screwdrivers always gets me through if I'm replacing the clip.

Also did a home alignment as always, but I didn't have a 5th hand to photograph it.

Unfortunately, the alignment is solid, but something is not quite right about off center straight ahead steering, which is tighter, but alternately/randomly vague 1/2" off of center on one side at a time. Could just be that the box decided now was the time to die, will look in to it more when I do the brakes, which I just ordered along with bearings/seals for the front.

Just so you I didn't wipe off the excess anti-seize just to annoy that one person that might see it.

[roguetoaster]

I have camber bushings in my ranger (3.5*) and I still get that positive camber when the wheel isn't perfectly straight.

Maybe I want it to be more sporty than it ever will be, but +1-1.5 isn't helping, nor does it seem to help with consistent return to center feel. Maybe I need other bushings, or maybe I should pay an alignment shop, but I probably won't do the latter. Or maybe it's just that Twin I Beam is a fairly moronic system that sacrifices precision for comfort.

[MrBurgundy]

I have camber bushings in my ranger (3.5*) and I still get that positive camber when the wheel isn't perfectly straight.

[roguetoaster]

I saw nothing yesterday but can see all today. Does that shifter have 1 3 6 across the top?

1 3 OD, or 5th for all normal people.

Oh my, what a rust bucket.

Glad you're putting your time into this neglected machine.

Between the time it probably spent in a field, and 225K+ on the clock it seems about normal for these trucks. You could also say that frame rust lowers chassis rigidity, allowing for better off road articulation, but that would be a lie since it struggles with slight grassy hills.

[MR E30 325is]

Oh my, what a rust bucket.

Glad you're putting your time into this neglected machine.

[Reichart12]

I saw nothing yesterday but can see all today. Does that shifter have 1 3 6 across the top?

[roguetoaster]

I do not understand why hotlinking is so unreliable on this iteration of vb, one would think that if you can open the image seperately in vb and use the gallery function that the pics would work every time until they are no longer hosted remotely. Attaching would be NBD if we could post more than 5 pics, and if it wasn't so slow.

[Northern]

I see pics

[roguetoaster]

The photos don't seem to be working. :-(

OMG. They worked yesterday in an incognito window, and today they do not. Guess I have to go back to futzing with imgur, great. Thanks shitty VB devs.

Edit:

Seems to be maybe working again, maybe, even in Edge? LMK if you see pics in #30 & #33.

[mike.bmw]

The photos don't seem to be working. :-(

[roguetoaster]

Grabbed a pic of the oil pan. The oxygen sensor that I replaced, which did nothing I could detect is also pictured. The Ford connector for that part is totally stupid, with a floating pin that bends easily, must insert against a flat/unchamfered surface, is completely blind/unkeyed in a space you can't reach on a 2" pigtail off of a subharness, and if the pin doesn't go in perfectly the other pins cannot be inserted.



Also fixed my rattly old knob after my Chinese import arrived...