My Hoopte30 Project Attempt #6 - the painless way to earn cash back every day

[AWDBOB]

Sounds like a good reason for me!

Looking forward to see Linda Live this year! :)

As I will always state: One project car is too much!

Yes, it's funny. Each time I open a new can of worms, I recall our convo in the ole Zionsville building and have it playing in my mind: "one project car is too much".

I will be at vintage this year, finally! But it'll likely be in Hoopty unless something magical happens.

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Another hoopty obtained! This one is just a partsie- too rusty to save. It is funny because this car sat in the small town in which I live for years. I always wanted to stop in but it was a no trespassing fenced in property with "survivors will be shot again" vibes. The owner posted it for sale and had hundreds of inquiries last year, I went to see it but it was too far gone for what he was asking for it.

Fast forward a year, and I got it for a smokin' deal from the guy who bought it that day, got it running, bought a 997 and lost interest in the E30. It's a cool car, super early '84 318 so it has manual windows, a nice black vinyl sport interior from a 318iS, and a few other goodies.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[moatilliatta]

The trip was for the hangs, the excuse to make it happen was the manual swap!

Sounds like a good reason for me!

Looking forward to see Linda Live this year! :)

As I will always state: One project car is too much!

[AWDBOB]

So Hooptie is also the Guinea pig for Megasquirt?... then FINALLY Linda will get that final step?? I guess I will get pics in 2023, maybe?

Linda is already on megasquirt! Jake came down sometime last (?) year and we converted it. But, it's tuned MAP/IAT only due to a bad M50 TPS, so once I get an intake pipe fabbed with an IAT (currently using IAT in AFM) and a new TPS we can fully dial the car in and dyno it once he gets his new Dynojet setup. Tim is going to do the small bit of rust cleanup on Linda, too, while it's up there.

Re: hooptie, I got a good deal on a MS setup for it, and we discussed doing a video on converting from stock ECU to megasquirt and dynoing before/after, afm vs intake pipe, etc etc, but my hope is to finish off Linda before I tackle this. So hopefully sooner than 2023 lolol

Winter stopped work on Linda as I don't drive it in the salt. I also just got done doing an engine in my '07 FXT, am doing an engine on my GF's Outback, did an engine in the 318 on top of the chassis harness, trying to manage the warehouse, etc etc all while still working full time.

Point being: I've learned it's not as much of a "when this, then this" type of deal as I would've hoped, because I am essentially turning the dial one click at a time on 10 different projects simultaneously. But, I'm shocked I've made as much progress as I have on all of this stuff through winter! If I stopped buying stuff I'd have a better grasp on the whole ordeal, but with opportunities being thrown my way I am doing my best at taking them in while also keeping everything else moving.

-Linda - rust repair, final tune, touch ups, get Simon hot pics for COTM
-318 - finish engine harness/engine install, install interior, drive for a bit to work out kinks and take in m42 glory, sell
-07 FXT - drive for a bit to work out kinks, finish small stuff and sell
-Sell GF's fiesta once Outback is done (engine build and heater core)
-White '90 iS - finish reassembling, install new suspension, drive/enjoy
-M3 - ship out to me, finish off interior restoration, rebuild motor, rebuild suspension, big project
-Hoopty iS - enjoy along the way as a reliable hoopty while fixing what breaks, parts tester
-89 325i part out
-84 633csi part out

It's a lot lol.

[2mAn]

So Hooptie is also the Guinea pig for Megasquirt?... then FINALLY Linda will get that final step?? I guess I will get pics in 2023, maybe?

[AWDBOB]

Heck of a hull for a swap. I like the on edge approach. Glad to see you made it there and back with now more gears manually operated.

The trip was for the hangs, the excuse to make it happen was the manual swap!

[moatilliatta]

Heck of a hull for a swap. I like the on edge approach. Glad to see you made it there and back with now more gears manually operated.

[AWDBOB]

You don't take as long to do a 5speed swap as I do. It's probably because you didn't put the shift knob on it.

I know!! I forgot a rubber boot as well for the shifter hole, a tshirt is currently solving that issue until I buy one. A knob from one of mjweimer’s many donations to the hoopty is currently at home on the car.

The car is in absolute peak shape right now. Once it’s on Megasquirt, it’s going to be a killer!!

I am essentially building a hoopty version of Linda at this point.

[twright]

You don't take as long to do a 5speed swap as I do. It's probably because you didn't put the shift knob on it.

[AWDBOB]

The hoopty and I went up to the ClassicDaily HQ this week for manual swap and hangs! We had two solid days of wrenching, and intended to manual swap hoopty and swap an m20 on a vert he is trading some labor on for an e28.

I had planned to do a valve cover gasket and heater valve before I went up there, but the trip got pushed forward a day, so instead I trekked a very leaky, untested car 5hrs north.

I left out of the parts warehouse early Wednesday to grab a few last minute items.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



The trip up was a success, but not without casualty. The heater valve really gave out (rivet fully failed) about half way up. No overheating, Hoopty is a sweetheart! The guibo was also living on a prayer but handled 5hrs of 85-90mph with mercy and gentleness.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




Within a few hours, the auto trans was out, and the subframe assembly/engine was dropped out the bottom of the vert!

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



Tim prepping the new M20 for the vert required some assistance.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




After a fight with the pilot bearing, the manual trans was in! I bought a car last year that came with a manual swap full of nice bits. I used a late model, 140k g260 I got from a customer who sold his e30, e36m shifter, all new delrin bushings, DSSR, new shift selector, 13lb lightened m20 flywheel, stock sachs PP/clutch, FTE clutch master/slave, and the $75 S3.73 from FB marketplace which ended up being great. While we were putting the trans in, Tim was up on the rolly-steps replacing the exhaust manifolds with ones that had good studs, as these snapped every stud upon removal. Tim was also kind enough to press on the new CSB on to the manual driveshaft.


Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



I dropped the car down to do some engine bay stuff like valve cover gasket that puked on the trip up, and also swap the heater valve/heater core. Not a terrible job, but there are a few specific bolts that are a pain. The new valve had a leaking Oring, so I had to pull the entire assembly back apart to throw the orings in from the old valve and hope they didn't leak. I transitioned to the passenger seat and employed bimmerbuddah to massage a few of the pesky bolts into place the last time around. Around this time, Simple_Smith stopped by to snag some trunk tension rods and hang.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



Time was running out, so we threw the exhaust back up/bled the clutch hydro and forgot the heat shields, fixed that, and then dropped it back down. The car moved backwards and forwards, success!

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr



I had to leave in the AM, and the test rip around the compound was a success so I loaded up and headed out. Realized a mile down the road that I forgot to bleed the cooling system after the second heater valve removal, so I did that on the side of the road after she got a little warm and all was well. Car is much happier with the manual, and the mission was a success! I have some vibration on decel that I'll investigate once I get time, but until then, she's a manual ripper. We didn't have time to finish getting the m20 swapped in the vert, but deemed getting hoopty done to be of higher importance, due to the fact that I had to drive it home on a timeline. Jake is making killer progress on installing his new Dynojet, so the next plan is to go up to do a video on a stock car being converted to megasquirt, using hoopty as the victim. Felt great to get out and drive an e30 with some risk involved. Driving untested 30y/o cars on extended trips keeps you honest, lol


Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[AWDBOB]

Those new springs did the trick, perfection!

Did you check behind the firewall panel for the nest or is this down in the heater box area? Easy enough to pull the core since you'll be pulling most of the panels anyway fitting the pedals, master, etc....it's easy to vacuum and wipe out the whole area.


Can't wait to get the full report from the visit up to Jake's...

Yes!! They settled too after driving for a bit, and they worked out perfectly. The car feels like a million bucks now. The subframe bushing NHV was lessened to an acceptable level with proper shocks out back.

Re: heater core- I had the same thought! I pulled the HVAC cover again to reorient the cover over the blower motor itself and sprayed a ton of air in there with fan on full blast and a vacuum and I think got most of it out. I have a newer heater core I'm going to put in when I swap the heater valve to hopefully get the rest of the nest!

I installed a MarkD chip and the car idles very low. Makes me wonder if, even though the ECUs were the same between Auto/manual cars if MarkD would tune differently for manual cars, causing it to idle low with the resistance of the torque converter.

Got hoopty #4 back on all fours! Did H&R OE Sports, KYBs, brakes all around, and a few other small odds/ends like ebrake cables/hardware, brake hoses, etc. Nice to have the suspension sorted! I know I keep saying it, but this car is really nice. When's the last time you pulled an ebrake cable right out of the housing without a fuss?

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[mjweimer]

Those new springs did the trick, perfection!

Did you check behind the firewall panel for the nest or is this down in the heater box area? Easy enough to pull the core since you'll be pulling most of the panels anyway fitting the pedals, master, etc....it's easy to vacuum and wipe out the whole area.


Can't wait to get the full report from the visit up to Jake's...

[AWDBOB]

Somehow I knew that rabbit hole would be explored...ha ha.


Solid (but still rubber) FCAB's are always a great choice to improve the feel of the front end. I have been pleasantly surprised how much nicer the Z3 rack feels in my car, I think any upgrade to quicken the steering a bit is worthwhile.


Got to love the simple solutions to problems and appreciate when the present themselves....

Agreed re: solid rubber CABs! On this car I wanted to test the solid centered CABs vs the offset ones that I typically use, and I like the centered ones more. By not adding as much caster, the steering wheel returns to center faster and feels much better for a daily, specifically with the regular E36 rack. The offsets feel better on Linda, which has a Z3 rack, as it calms down the Z3 rack a bit.


And with one odd problem fixed, another is revealed......driving it in the winter has me using the heat which led to the realization that there is still a mouse nest.... inside the dash vents, and I assume, also trapped in the HVAC box. It's restricting flow so much that it is blowing the blower motor fuse after a few minutes of operation. I don't know if I have it in me to do another dash out job, but I'm headed up to MI next week and will need the heat functioning..... we'll see.


The car was feeling very crashy in the rear over bumps so I assumed the "claimed good" rear shocks I got with the racecar were shot and...... they were shot. I opted for some new Konis to match the fronts, and went with a 6" rear coilover spring since I don't want to go very low with the car. The car sits just right, and gives me a ton of room to go higher if needed for winter, rally cross, etc.

The best part of it all is not having the rear coilover springs fall out of their perch when the rear of the car is jacked up! It's the small things.

I also assembled a lot of the small manual swap items here so we can just focus on the business when I get up to Jakes. A flywheel came in a box with racecar parts, and it turns out it's an M20 flywheel that's been lightened a good bit. Going to use a Sachs Clutch/PP. My tool box has become my work bench and became a catch all. I've been saying I'm going to get organized, but it hasn't happened yet.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




Gained way more than 1" going from from 5" springs and blown shocks to 6" springs and good shocks.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr


Down to a suitable ride height.


Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[mjweimer]

And down the rabbit hole I went. It appears that boiled linseed oil is the ticket, and requires little prep. Helps seal the porous paint, as well as exposed metal.




Thanks, man!



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Got her back from alignment today and took the car for a shake down. The powerflex rear subframe bushings were a bad move- NHV went up quite a bit, but the reduce in flex is noticeable.

The rear end is very crashy. I have the rear 5"x2.25" GC springs/adjusters as high as they'll go and the car is crashing over even the smallest bump. I suspect shocks are out of travel, but would still like to get the rear end higher, so perhaps a 6"x2.25" rear spring is in order, and potentially Mustang Konis.

The good is that the front end feels excellent with the GCs and E36 rack and centered E36 CABs. I wanted to see how the camber plates aligned out and found this....... only two bolts in the camber plates. Wondering what went wrong to require so much adjustment. Perhaps something in the plate is assembled incorrectly? Pretty sure two bolts per plate isn't going to cut it. I could see three, but two..... no way that adjustment is going to hold.

The other positive is that my rear fender roll worked well, and there is no rubbing!


Rear end still slammed after adjusting the rear all of the way up.


Oh, and in the process of sealing up the cabin I found my wiper issue. These three ground wires (that you can see by accelerator pedal linkage on the left) were exposed and touching the pedal box when driving, causing the wipers to actuate/spray. Sealed them up, and problem solved! Have an ignition tumbler rebuild on order as well as the two firewall plugs for the locations shown below, but BMW NA is taking their time on orders at the moment. The firewall grommet was mostly removed causing a ton of water ingress, so I was able to get that reinstalled as well. The heater valve failed, too, so am going to steal a few seals from mr EDC Matthew and rebuild the one on the car.

Somehow I knew that rabbit hole would be explored...ha ha.


Solid (but still rubber) FCAB's are always a great choice to improve the feel of the front end. I have been pleasantly surprised how much nicer the Z3 rack feels in my car, I think any upgrade to quicken the steering a bit is worthwhile.


Got to love the simple solutions to problems and appreciate when the present themselves....

[AWDBOB]

I've heard that folks use a scotchbrite pad to level the patina before applying clear but I've never tried it myself. My neighbor has a couple '60's Chevy's with nice patina and he uses some coating designed to preserve the look after he scuffed with steel wool....I'm sure there is a deep rabbit hole on this topic within the Google's.

I hate chasing water leaks but it sounds like you are all over it....I've got some 25mm plugs if you need them. Keep that thing solid.

And down the rabbit hole I went. It appears that boiled linseed oil is the ticket, and requires little prep. Helps seal the porous paint, as well as exposed metal.

nice work!!!

Thanks, man!



----------------

Got her back from alignment today and took the car for a shake down. The powerflex rear subframe bushings were a bad move- NHV went up quite a bit, but the reduce in flex is noticeable.

The rear end is very crashy. I have the rear 5"x2.25" GC springs/adjusters as high as they'll go and the car is crashing over even the smallest bump. I suspect shocks are out of travel, but would still like to get the rear end higher, so perhaps a 6"x2.25" rear spring is in order, and potentially Mustang Konis.

The good is that the front end feels excellent with the GCs and E36 rack and centered E36 CABs. I wanted to see how the camber plates aligned out and found this....... only two bolts in the camber plates. Wondering what went wrong to require so much adjustment. Perhaps something in the plate is assembled incorrectly? Pretty sure two bolts per plate isn't going to cut it. I could see three, but two..... no way that adjustment is going to hold.

The other positive is that my rear fender roll worked well, and there is no rubbing!

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr




Rear end still slammed after adjusting the rear all of the way up


Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr





Oh, and in the process of sealing up the cabin I found my wiper issue. These three ground wires (that you can see by accelerator pedal linkage on the left) were exposed and touching the pedal box when driving, causing the wipers to actuate/spray. Sealed them up, and problem solved! Have an ignition tumbler rebuild on order as well as the two firewall plugs for the locations shown below, but BMW NA is taking their time on orders at the moment. The firewall grommet was mostly removed causing a ton of water ingress, so I was able to get that reinstalled as well. The heater valve failed, too, so am going to steal a few seals from mr EDC Matthew and rebuild the one on the car.



Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[e30austin]

nice work!!!