The Alfa Thread

[flyboyx]

I've tried head, cold, and a giant brake drum puller. Stuck fast. I've sprayed huge amounts of KROIL in there as well. They don't want to let go. With the brake adjusters I can crank them down and see the drums distort, but they will not break free. You'd think after 8 years of screwing with them they'd let go, but no. I had one drum last week so hot that things were smoking. I got nowhere however.

There isn't much rust on the car, just lots and lots of dirt from sitting in a barn with a dirt floor since 1972 (I looked at the last registration tag on the plates) The suspension is caked in a mix of grease, oil and dirt. The good news is that the metal under the crud is really nicely preserved. The insides of the wheel wells do have a very light undercoating of some sort. Some of it flakes off with a scraper, the rest is very firmly in place. Getting in there and scrubbing with a wire brush or scraper is just a dirty job. The little rust I find is light surface rust and nothing more. Once I have everything cleaned I'll paint it with SEM Rust-Mort, then POR-15.

Will

i have been in situations like this. basically any car from the rust belt will have this problem too. i guess you didn't specify if you used acetylene or propane. i wouldn't worry about smoke. that is either 50 years of dust or grease. you are going to need to get them a hell of a lot hotter than that. to actually get them off, i am pretty sure you will need acetylene and you will need to get the area around the hub cherry red and then tap it with a 3lb hammer. i have never seen anything that won't come apart once this temp is reached.

[Wschnitz]

Yeah Acetylene is a whole different game, if its the pads that are the part seizing it could release them.

[BlackbirdM3]

i have been in situations like this. basically any car from the rust belt will have this problem too. i guess you didn't specify if you used acetylene or propane. i wouldn't worry about smoke. that is either 50 years of dust or grease. you are going to need to get them a hell of a lot hotter than that. to actually get them off, i am pretty sure you will need acetylene and you will need to get the area around the hub cherry red and then tap it with a 3lb hammer. i have never seen anything that won't come apart once this temp is reached.

If I get the drums that hot, they will turn into a melted mess of nothing. They are aluminum. Oh yeah, finding replacement ones are more than hard.



In other news, I got the car about 40% stripped of paint on the outside. Some of the paint will come right off, the other stuff won't come off even with 60 grit sandpaper. I failed miserably in my attempt to get the wheel wells cleaned and POR15d.

Will

[ELVA164]

Do the drums turn or are the shoes seized to the drums? Try one of those 3ft screwdrivers between two wheel lugs as a lever. Also look into aluminum cutting fluid to release the shoes from the drums.

[BlackbirdM3]

The wheels turn ok. The shoes aren't stuck to the drums. The drums are stuck to the hubs. I think what I'll do for the fronts at least is pull the whole hub and drum as one piece. Once I have the assembly off the car I might be able to use a press to pop it free. The rear might be more of a challenge, but then they might just come off. I haven't messed with the rears in quite some time.

Will

[flyboyx]

If I get the drums that hot, they will turn into a melted mess of nothing. They are aluminum. Oh yeah, finding replacement ones are more than hard.





Will

well....that does indeed complicate things, doesn't it? i agree your best bet at this point is to take them apart at the hub. even if you don't succeed in getting the drum separated from the hubs, at least you can change the brakes.

i used to have an old 64 pontiac grand prix that had aluminum brake drums. unfortunately, they developed corrosion between the aluminum hub and the steel lining which caused a few bubbles in the lining. fortunately, there is a guy in minnesota that will install new linings if you have the same problem.

http://www.jgrelining.com

[BlackbirdM3]

How about a Sprint post...
Early 750



A 101 series like mine.

I really do like them in dark colors.



Silver isn't a bad color for them.

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t1.0-9/10156096_648326585242019_2245048014133771007_n.jpg?oh=30430344bcd8f038ca795997acd122f9&oe=56BC674B

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10928200_803668536374873_1717555253574975848_n.jpg?oh=afad71e0b2a510906e1ed4e3c5408a7e&oe=56CA1E07

I'm thinking of doing something like this with mine.


at SPA 6 hrs.




Will

[LateFan]

Very nice. I like dark as well - I think it really makes that shape interesting. The silver is surprisingly good looking though. I had some friends in Seattle with red ones (most) but there was the very light blue (almost celeste), white, silver...

Have you searched or checked with the guys on AlfaBB on the hub issue? Some of those guys really know their Giuliettas.

[LateFan]

Fat steelies..


One of those curious 50s colors..

[BlackbirdM3]

You do realize that is my pic. hahaha I shot it at the CSRG event back in May. I love the blue car.

Yes I revived my thread on alfabb about the brakes. It was there that someone suggested pulling the hub and pressing it off.

More Sprint pics.

The white one is a Veloce Lightweight, aluminum body.


Not a Sprint, but I'd love to find a set of these American racing LeMans wheels for mine.


White just doesn't work.

A better color.











Who parked their Sprint on the track... Oh wait, I was shooting with a point and shoot camera...






An SS (Sprint Speciale)


An SZ (Sprint Zagato.)


TZ1 Stradale


Lightweight.


Will

[LateFan]

Oh, well I probably swiped a couple from you!

I must have taken these.............um....









This is kind of a cool color...

[LateFan]

If anyone's interested, this guy puts out some good videos on Alfa restoration. He runs a top notch body and restoration shop in Washington called Vintage Customs.

This is on evaluating a car you're considering purchasing, and all the hidden problems on a decent looking car...

http://www.vintagecustoms.net/index.html

.

[Wschnitz]

I'd probably still buy a 105 GTV in the condition that duetto is in lol.

The prices kinda seem like E30 M3 prices, all over the place.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5274499179.html

[BlackbirdM3]

I'd probably still buy a 105 GTV in the condition that duetto is in lol.

The prices kinda seem like E30 M3 prices, all over the place.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...274499179.html

I'd run like the wind from that car. The Rust Monster is strong with that one.

This is a little high, but its the best of the GTVs. Also the rarest as there were only 640 of them built. This is much like the GTV I had. Some day I will have another US spec '69 1750 GTV (105.51)

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5260010828.html

Will

[BlackbirdM3]

If anyone's interested, this guy puts out some good videos on Alfa restoration. He runs a top notch body and restoration shop in Washington called Vintage Customs.

This is on evaluating a car you're considering purchasing, and all the hidden problems on a decent looking car...

http://www.vintagecustoms.net/index.html

.

Vintage Customs is THE place to have your Alfa restored. They are wizards. There was a rumor that my GTV ended up there to get fixed. I don't know if that was the truth however. I've never seen it mentioned. VC has a thread on Alfabb.

Will