The R3V R/C car,truck thread.

[BLACKCHARM88]

Broke out the AX10 w/ ladder frame and Blazer with full interior, RC4WD Trail Stomper. I'm mostly just into scale crawlers/ trail vehicles.

[Exodus_2pt0]

So I'm at the beach this weekend and the emaxx needed some repairs, so I decided to make it bulletproof.

Already had rpm front control arms and bulkheads, and a rear rpm shock tower. So I purchased an rpm tru-trac rear control arm kit, rpm rear bulkheads, rpm shock tower for the front, hitec 645mg servo and aluminum horn, new body, new pins, and new control arm pins.


Spent 6 hours rebuilding the truck and putting new fluid in the empty diff's, got it all together and working perfectly.

Got to the beach yesterday morning at 6:30 and busted out the 6s of fury. The truck hauls ass, doing at least 40 mph through the sand, and shredding the rear u joint within 15 minutes.


Since upgrading to the Mamba monster and adding 6s, I haven't made it through a single charge without breaking something. Traxxas metal driveshafts are already on the way. All that's left are axles and then I'm sure it will be the diffs that break.

I'm thinking about putting away the 22v setup and running4s from here on out. I never thought an rc car could have too much power.

[brodee]

I run my savage flux hp at 4s to keep from breaking things. It's way fast enough on 4s.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Just about unbreakable. Still need shocks and axles, but she's getting there. Been a few years now in the making.



New driveshafts installed. Also decided to just keep using/breaking stock skid plates. They should be a wear item anyway. Also note the rear control arms. So nice to not have the rear wheels toed out as far as possible after every cartwheel.


New body, spent as little time as possible on it. I'll still be sad when it get's destroyed. Does anyone know where to get body's that don't set you back $30+?




The last time I was building this my wife told me to just keep sitting in the corner like a 10 year old playing with my toy. I told her that for every $10 I spend on this it would be $100 on a car.


EDIT: Just noticed from the photo's that one of the front control arms got installed upside down on the last tear down. Oops.

[mbonanni]

Man, I have the very first gen t-maxx .12 with a 2.5 motor, 3.3 drivetrain and rpm arms sitting in my shed. I should bust it out one of these days.

I probably spent more on rc cars than I have on my 3 e30's. Parts that is, not including purchase price.

[Exodus_2pt0]

And we have a new record.

Took it out, and made 1 speed run. The truck veered off track at near full speed, into a storm drain and slammed a rock whilst air born.

End result? Ripped one pillow ball out of the spindle, and destroyed the skid plate and chassis.

fml. This happened within 3 minutes of turning the truck on.



It's now time to throw it back in the closet for a few months and pretend it doesn't exist.

[Andy.B]

Just about unbreakable.

This happened within 3 minutes of turning the truck on.

Hahahahaha.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Yea, I caved.

Big bore shocks, new chassis, 50wt oil, dual rate springs, rpm front turnbuckles and a few other odds and ends are on the way.

Hoping to make it handle better to avoid this in the future. I also just need to go back to 4s but 22 volts is so insane I can't resist.

[Jack89i]

Just read through this and now I'm about to blow a bunch if money on either a drift car or get back into rc planes..
Thanks a lot -___-


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[Andy.B]

Yea, I caved.

Big bore shocks, new chassis, 50wt oil, dual rate springs, rpm front turnbuckles and a few other odds and ends are on the way.

Hoping to make it handle better to avoid this in the future. I also just need to go back to 4s but 22 volts is so insane I can't resist.

I get that. I have a touring car chassis that is simply too fast to be usable. I have to adjust most of the throttle out of the transmitter just to make it semi drivable. Last time I had it out I shattered a few wheels.

[Andy.B]

Just read through this and now I'm about to blow a bunch if money on either a drift car or get back into rc planes..
Thanks a lot -___-


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Drift cars can be done for pretty cheap. There are lots of well known chassis 'inspired' by name brand products out there. White wolf is one that comes to mind.

http://www.r2hobbies.com/rc-cars/cars/1-10-rc-on-road-white-wolf-counter-steering-drift-racing-car-chassis-kit.html

People seem to have fairly good luck with these types of chassiss, since drifting is pretty easy on the car.

[the imitator]

lol!! that shits too funny. "just about unbreakable"

well shit.

[Exodus_2pt0]

I know right? Ate my words on that one.

I have retracted my comment on skid plates. The stock one snapped, and being that the skid plate is the link between the chassis reinforcements and the bulkhead, it could have been what caused this.

I'll have to just drop the cash on titanium plates. I hate aluminum one's with a passion.


Then again, when you're taking a 10+ pound RC car to 60+ mph, I don't know if unbreakable could ever apply.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Back in action!

New chassis, big bore shocks with dual rate springs, 50wt oil in the shocks, and RPM front turnbuckles.

The truck handles amazing now, much better planted. Still, I hit a curb at speed but the only damage this time was a lower pillow ball popped out of the new turn buckles. No damage to the RPM part, so I simply put it back together and back at it.

I don't consider that a break after the past few incidents.

[BLACKCHARM88]

My Axial AX10. First pic is of the interior I made out of styrene with brass rollbar (2010). Second pic was when I had Proline Moab tires on it. Third is with Proline Super Swamper SX's because I wanted a larger tire. Has a Tekin FX w/ 55turn and running 7cell Nimh (2011) I've added a RC4WD Trail Stomper and an Axial SCX10 Rubicon to my recent collection, its nice to be out of the service now so I can enjoy them more and update their electronics.