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    I Need a Saw

    Has anyone tried using a chop saw to cut exhaust tubing? If so you understand my frustration.

    Here I'm trying to put together perfect angles an squared ends in 16ga T409 2.5" stainless. Using a chop saw gives me either warped or uneven ends. It's much harder to get the angles I want and get them to stay still during the cut.

    I've been doing my research and I'm looking into band saws. Figured I'd get r3vs opinion.

    #2
    Miter box made of wood and a sharp metal saw? Old school but cheap and effective

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      #3
      Originally posted by rcsoundn1 View Post
      Miter box made of wood and a sharp metal saw? Old school but cheap and effective
      Lol. That could work hell.

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        #4
        this what you need
        Attached Files


        i have no idea what i am doing with my life

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          #5
          I bought a Jet 14" wood band saw off Craiger, ordered some new pulleys from McMaster to slow it down.

          Are you trying to make collectors? The chop saw works much better. Sounds like you have a thin blade and/or are trying to cut too fast.
          john@m20guru.com
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            #6
            Hacksaw? Then use a grinder to clean up the edges and make sure your angles line up.
            My Feedback

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              #7
              What kind of blade are you using? Teethed blades really aren't going to work well as a wood cutting chop saw spins way too fast. You would be better off buying a cutting disk like this:

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                #8
                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                I bought a Jet 14" wood band saw off Craiger, ordered some new pulleys from McMaster to slow it down.

                Are you trying to make collectors? The chop saw works much better. Sounds like you have a thin blade and/or are trying to cut too fast.
                This is what I was thinking of. I want the cleanest cut possible and the band saw's give you the most versatility when it comes to cutting bends.

                Originally posted by E30 Wagen View Post
                Hacksaw? Then use a grinder to clean up the edges and make sure your angles line up.
                A hack saw may be my best bet. Nothing wrong with using a little muscle

                Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                What kind of blade are you using? Teethed blades really aren't going to work well as a wood cutting chop saw spins way too fast. You would be better off buying a cutting disk like this:

                http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch...ade-90135.html
                That's the 14" cut off wheel I was using. It gives dirty, slow, and sometimes warped cuts. Also, It's hard to cut a bend with a circular saw.

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                  #9
                  Just be weary of SS. It eats blades in no time on the band saw. Tubing is difficult to select a blade for (thin wall anyways) because the cut is no constant. When you start cutting, there's a lot of blade contact, then the thin walls, then you are cutting thick again, almost as it's a solid bar.

                  Best method I found to date is using the chop saw, lowering it very slowly until it breaches the tube, then you can put a little more pressure on it. Then I take the piece to the sanding table and make it flat again.

                  The joints only need to be so close if you are MIG welding.
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                    #10
                    I cut my entire 3" SS 409 exhaust setup on a Delta chop saw with a metal blade. I have cut up to 1/2 plate steel on it.
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                      #11
                      A horizontal band saw like what dirtbag30 posted is the best way, but is fairly expensive. If you get one, I highly recommend variable pitch blades. The teeth ramp up from small to big in size along the blade, making them very versatile. Be sure to buy bi-metal blades only. McMaster.com is a great place to get them. They sell Starrett brand blades which are very good. A little extra money goes a long way when it comes to blades. Buy good ones and they will pay for themselves. Harbor Freight blades are garbage.

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                        #12
                        My Grandfather gave me his hydraulic controlled band saw. Cannot wait to have a shop of my own to set it all up.
                        ~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~

                        Instagram: @BWeissLeather

                        Current cars:
                        ~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
                        ~ '87 535
                        ~ 01 540 Msport 6spd
                        ~ '06 X5 4.8is

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                          A horizontal band saw like what dirtbag30 posted is the best way, but is fairly expensive. If you get one, I highly recommend variable pitch blades. The teeth ramp up from small to big in size along the blade, making them very versatile. Be sure to buy bi-metal blades only. McMaster.com is a great place to get them. They sell Starrett brand blades which are very good. A little extra money goes a long way when it comes to blades. Buy good ones and they will pay for themselves. Harbor Freight blades are garbage.
                          McMaster is very expensive compared to other vendors, just convenient that they have literally everything. Go to a local Grainger or similar place and get the same product for less, and pick it up the next day if they don't have it in stock. If you don't mind waiting, bandsawbladesdirect.com make the blades to order for very reasonable.

                          Originally posted by F34R View Post
                          My Grandfather gave me his hydraulic controlled band saw. Cannot wait to have a shop of my own to set it all up.
                          I have only seen 2 kinds of "set it and forget it" band saws. Hydraulic drop and gravity drop. Gravity drop are vertical saws with a large weight in them, that have a screw adjustment that slides the table into the part. Drop saws have a valve on the hydraulic ram to control the pressure on the cut off using a "screen door" type mechanism for control via a valve petcock. Have used both with/without cutting oil pumps.
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                            #14
                            I've made downpipes and exhaust with my chop saw. No issues whatsoever. 3" straight and 3" mandrel bends. Even made some pie cuts on it.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                              McMaster is very expensive compared to other vendors, just convenient that they have literally everything. Go to a local Grainger or similar place and get the same product for less, and pick it up the next day if they don't have it in stock. If you don't mind waiting, bandsawbladesdirect.com make the blades to order for very reasonable.

                              I have only seen 2 kinds of "set it and forget it" band saws. Hydraulic drop and gravity drop. Gravity drop are vertical saws with a large weight in them, that have a screw adjustment that slides the table into the part. Drop saws have a valve on the hydraulic ram to control the pressure on the cut off using a "screen door" type mechanism for control via a valve petcock. Have used both with/without cutting oil pumps.
                              Just cross referenced the same blade on McMaster and bandsawbladesdirect.com. McMaster is $9 cheaper for the same blade. That's over 30% cheaper. Grainger is $17 more, once again, for the same blade. I usually get things from McMaster within 2 days of ordering using their standard shipping. They have warehouses all over.

                              And you must have never seen a fully automatic hydraulic auto-saw. ;-)



                              There are also "gravity" saws as you said with a large spring controlling it's downward motion.

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