The R3V Bicycle Thread

[BlackbirdM3]

Decided to go do a crit yesterday, I lasted exactly one pedal stroke... I missed my pedal while clipping in, sat down on the nose of the seat and heard a loud "CRACK" I broke the carbon fiber seat post clamp on my easton EC90 post, and broke the carbon rail of my super rare San Marco Concor lite KA saddle.





A replacement saddle is very hard to find, there is one on ebay right now for $250. I'm really bummed about that. 156 grams for a comfy saddle is hard to beat.

The upside is that I was able to use the aluminum head clamp from another Easton EC70 post I wasn't using, and I had a titanium railed version of the same seat to put on the bike. I've never broken a seatpost before, nor have I broken the rail of a seat. I've bent both, but never broken them.

Will

[LateFan]

Another day in Montana

[prim0]

Been browsing R3v for years. I sold my e30 a long time a go. I still lurk, mostly this thead. Though I'd post a few of my other obsession; vintage bikes. Check me out on Instagram: Ewart_Built

[jag09]

Anyone interested in buying a tri/tt bike?

[getouth]

The R3V Bicycle Thread


Last of the Hand made USA from Cannondale. R1000 upgraded in every way.


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[getouth]

^^decent deal for sure


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[BlackbirdM3]

Anyone interested in a Cervelo Soloist frameset? Frame, fork, headset, and seatpost. Everything is in perfect condition. I'd love to get $350 or so for it.



Will

[superj]

I have

lightning bike phantom 2 (exercise bike-100-150 miles a work week on it)
giant boulder (my daily commuter to work)
gt pro series (mid 90s)
bike e ct model (90s model)
trek 300 (90s model)
trek 400 (80s model)
free agent (80s model)

I just sold a bacchetta strada to a buddy who wanted to get into riding. 9 months of the year, we ride (a friend and I) 25-50 miles a day after work and take a break on the weekends, or ride in stuff like the shiner 100, tour de honey, etc.

[BlackbirdM3]

In my local series there's a special class that runs fixies. My current Tri-TT bike is a Felt B14 from 2010 if I recall correctly. It's a carbon frame so that's why I was iffy running it as it's currently my only bike. I will have to check the frame/part specs to see about the cranks, bottom bracket clearance, and top tube


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Oh, ok, its a local thing. That makes more sense. As for running a Tri bike, as long as it has no forward extensions for bars (you could run flat mtb bars if you really wanted to, not that it would be of any use) you should be good to go. It might not be the ideal frame, but it should be legal to race.

Will

[jag09]

There is no such thing as a fixed gear class for crits. As for a good bike for one, it depends on many things. My personal race bike is essentially a TT bike with a tall bottom bracket. If you are off in a breakaway, you are essentially doing either an ITT or TTT, so the more aero you can get, the less energy you are using to stay off the front. If you happen to have a Cervelo, and you are comfortable going hard on it, sprinting on it, I'd stick with it. Cervelo is one of the few builders that design their frames with an adequately high bottom bracket. Its been a long time since I rode a carbon framed Cervelo, but I will say my aluminum Soloist team/S1 does not have a large enough diameter top tube to be a good crit bike. The front end is just too flimsy. This might not be the case with a carbon one. (That said, I wouldn't run a carbon one in a crit because if you are involved in a crash, odds are the frame will be compromised. You might not see damage on the outside, but it doesn't mean its not damaged on the inside. If you do see damage on the outside, throw it away.)



Unless you run 172.5 or shorter cranks, you will need a bottom bracket that is at least 10.8 inches tall. (People will tell you I'm smoking crack, and that 10.5 inch tall bbs are fine... until they either don't pedal through the corner or take themselves and everyone else around them out. Pedaling through corners without fear of a pedal strike allows you to move up in every single corner safely, on the inside doing minimum work.)



Will

In my local series there's a special class that runs fixies. My current Tri-TT bike is a Felt B14 from 2010 if I recall correctly. It's a carbon frame so that's why I was iffy running it as it's currently my only bike. I will have to check the frame/part specs to see about the cranks, bottom bracket clearance, and top tube


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[BlackbirdM3]

What set up would you guys recommend for someone getting into crit racing coming from a triathlon/tt bike? I thought about doing my first crit in the fixed gear class


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There is no such thing as a fixed gear class for crits. As for a good bike for one, it depends on many things. My personal race bike is essentially a TT bike with a tall bottom bracket. If you are off in a breakaway, you are essentially doing either an ITT or TTT, so the more aero you can get, the less energy you are using to stay off the front. If you happen to have a Cervelo, and you are comfortable going hard on it, sprinting on it, I'd stick with it. Cervelo is one of the few builders that design their frames with an adequately high bottom bracket. Its been a long time since I rode a carbon framed Cervelo, but I will say my aluminum Soloist team/S1 does not have a large enough diameter top tube to be a good crit bike. The front end is just too flimsy. This might not be the case with a carbon one. (That said, I wouldn't run a carbon one in a crit because if you are involved in a crash, odds are the frame will be compromised. You might not see damage on the outside, but it doesn't mean its not damaged on the inside. If you do see damage on the outside, throw it away.)

Unless you run 172.5 or shorter cranks, you will need a bottom bracket that is at least 10.8 inches tall. (People will tell you I'm smoking crack, and that 10.5 inch tall bbs are fine... until they either don't pedal through the corner or take themselves and everyone else around them out. Pedaling through corners without fear of a pedal strike allows you to move up in every single corner safely, on the inside doing minimum work.)

Will

[Chrisbike]

The "chinerello" build minus the zipp 404s (costing more than the bike) was like $1300 bucks with a Ultegra 6800 group set.

[Chrisbike]

My Parlee TTiR, I've only ridden it like 8 times last year, need to get it out more, my beater bike is some chinerello dogma replica, frame was $750 had it for three years 14k and 100+ races later it's still around; I can't kill it. Lol

[jag09]

What set up would you guys recommend for someone getting into crit racing coming from a triathlon/tt bike? I thought about doing my first crit in the fixed gear class


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[BlackbirdM3]

The Aura / Q-PRO XX was a good crit bike.

Always wanted a Gerolstiener one back in the day

I wouldn't call them a good crit bike, the bottom bracket on both is really too low. The Aura is WAY too low, the Q-Pro might be barely high enough. My custom Tsunami crit frame is 3/4 of an inch taller than the Aura, and half an inch taller than the Q-Pro. I would be afraid to race the Aura in a crit, I had a pedal strike taking a leisurely corner on my ride today. In a crit, there is no time to stop pedaling through a corner, a corner is where you can move up, or lose 10 places depending on whether or not you pedal it. This thing, hell no, I'm just asking to take myself and everyone behind me out. I had the same issue with my Litespeed Vortex, I'd strike pedals all the time. Not cool. I do not understand why bike builders spec low bottom brackets. Its dumb, and it makes the bike slower, and handle poorly. Cervelo got it almost right, except they failed to spec a large enough top tube so the bike is like riding a wet noodle. Its flat out scary to ride fast down a technical descent. When it comes time to sprint, the odds of tossing the chain off the big ring at full speed are better than average.

I guess the bottom line is, off the shelf frames still don't work for me, and I really need to get my custom frame fixed.

Will