Sorry if I misused the term mountain bike. Its a trail bike.
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The R3V Bicycle Thread
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Originally posted by Wschnitz View PostIts worked perfectly fine for me. Spending 300+ on a bike with an aluminum frame is outrageous to me. Especially when they cost little to build....
But, what do I know, I've only been riding and racing for 20 years, and design my own frames, as well as spending 10 years in the industry, both working in a shop and doing some product testing.
Upgrading a diamondback outlook is a waste of money.
Will'59 Alfa Romeo 101.02 Giulietta Sprint
'69 Alfa Romeo 105.51 1750 GTV (R.I.P)
'69 Datsun 2000 roadster Vintage race car
'88 BMW M3
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Buy e30 cup holders
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...41#post4159541
Buy BMW Motosports handles
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302846
Buy BMW MOTORSPORT valve covers http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=330146
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Originally posted by BlackbirdM3 View PostFirst things first, get rid of the stack of spacers under the stem. Your bike will handle better with the bars lower.
So much goes into wheels its not funny. Climbing wheels forgo stiffness for less weight. Thanks, I don't really want to ride stupid light wheels down a hill. That said, I don't want heavier aero wheels for going up a hill (Oh, wait, yes I do. They will come in handy on the trip down.) Aero wheels do nothing for you below about 20 mph, however, above, the advantage just gets better and better the faster you go. The trouble is, they tend to not turn so well at high speed. I scared the hell out of myself on an early set of Zipp 404s when I was trying to chase my way back onto a peloton after being dropped on the climb. I ran out of road before the bike decided to turn. Still, I eventually chased my way back onto the field. I pulled off a 4th place, I would have won the field sprint had I been able to cross the center line (I had to grab a big handful of brakes to keep from rear ending the guys in front of me who were slower than hell 30 yards from the line or be disqualified for crossing the center line.)
So, back to the question. Its a tricky question. It depends on what sort of racing you do. Since I can't climb, I'm crit scumb, a set of Zipp 404s or 808s would be fantastic for a crit. If you tend toward a road race, I'd say nothing with an aero profile larger than say a Zipp 404, Campy Bora, or Mavic Cosmic Carbone. If you don't need a set of carbon wheels, the Campy Euros wheels are way fast, and really light. I'd personally love a set of them. I had to settle for a set of Neuvation R28 Aero 4s. They are fast, light enough, stiff enough, and a fantastic deal for the $. I've been riding them for 2 years and haven't had a problem. I've also done 70 mph down a hill on them. They aren't the lightest, they aren't the most trick, but they are a solid, fast wheel. I'm a big rider and I've trashed my share of wheels. These have held up pretty well.
Will
I'm bigger too.. 205lbs currently
I haven't started any racing but we have a really fun mountain in Phx about 3mi from my house: http://app.strava.com/segments/1037008
I've been roadracing cars/karts for 13yrs so I could def see myself doing some shorter roadraces and crits.
I'm thinking your stiff/durable suggestions would be best for me since I'm not so worried about climbing but would like security with my weight and the speeds I see coming down South Mountain.. :)
My friend has a set of Boyds that seem nice for the $$.
Heading in for a fitting soon so I'll adjust the bike accordingly! Thanks again..
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Originally posted by Wschnitz View Posthttp://www.diamondback.com/overdrive...-hardtail-29er
Yay or nay? Looking at a starting out mountain bike.
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Latest of my Klein:
But the frame/fork/seatpost is sold....and I am awaiting the arrival of this beautiful example:
1991 Marin Bear Valley....a relatively lo-spec Marin but it's clean and ready to ride.-03/2005 E46 330D Touring 6spd(204hp/410nM) Sapphire Black/Naturbraun Sport...300k KM & 35mpg(mixed)
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