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Rear end is way too tail happy. How do I get more lateral grip?

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    #16
    Originally posted by TobyB View Post
    what is this k you speak of? Degrees Kelvin?

    Last I recall, and it's been a while, I might be 800lbs/in front, 700 rear. It is entirely possible that I've transposed those numbers...
    ...but the car will lap acceptably with the same rate front/rear (and yes, that means a rear wheel rate about 62% of front wheel rate)

    Other things that will affect balance, in addition to the above tire discussion:
    for a track car, you want MORE rear camber. With a 50 series radial R1R, the paddock seems to average about -4 in back.
    Some of the fastest have more- and some of their strongest competition have less. Most of the rest of us vary it a bit
    to get even (ish) loaded tire temps.

    Don't overlook rake- getting the nose down and the ass up has counterintuitive effects on balance- yes, it's quicker to turn
    in, but grip seems to improve in back, despite what one might think. If it's too waggly right on turn in and not unstable in mid-
    corner, take some rake out and see what happens. The roll centers on E30s are.... a fiasco, quite frankly.

    t
    or something
    -4 degrees rear camber and rake will not help keep the rear planted.

    I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
    @Zakspeed_US

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      #17
      Okie Dokie guys. My car feels amazing now. Thanks for all the help.

      Yes, all bushing were replaced like 4 years ago to some 95a poly, but solid recommendation.

      I also loved the suggestion about the rake of the car.I don't hard park, so my coils are at max height and the rear does sit a bit higher when static (especially with the new springs).
      Might not look good for the instagrams, but that's what perfection looks like ladies and gentlemen.

      Anyways, what I did was,

      1.) Replace rear springs to 12k (I personally think this was the winning ticket)

      2.) Minor 5mm wheel spacers to rear (don't know if it had an effect, but the ol e30 looks better now)

      3.) And got some nice 200 treadwear rubbers, 225's (in reality, this probably was all I need to do; fuck me right?)

      I'm back on my drift alignment 0 camber and toe as well, and even with this setting, the car has grip for days.

      Moral of the story, is follow your dreams and if at first you don't succeed you should probably just give up because in the end it's going to cost you money and they are just
      jealous that we are smarter than them on the account of the extra bone in our body, but science doesn't want to acknowledge that.

      Amen brothers

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        #18
        Throw a picture up of it. Side would be ideal
        sigpic

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          #19
          Check Rear subframe bushings and bolts. Disconnect your rear sway bar and increase your rear camber.

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            #20
            Here is a quick side pic of how she sits now.

            Just a recap.
            BC Coilovers (8k front 12k rear) (Max Height)
            22m Front Sway Bar, No Rear Sway Bar
            95a Poly Bushing everywhere.
            5mm Rear spacers
            -3.5 camber, zero toe front, 0 camber and toe for rear. (or something like that)
            SLR mini kit with e46 control arms with IRP 5 lug conversion kit (Great product)
            Decent tires (200 count)

            Aside from tires, I really think removing the rear sway bar and getting the stiffer rear springs (8k to 12k) was the winning answer to my original question.

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