School me on Miata's

[gverelli]

Used? You can get 15x9 C3Ms on tirerack for like $100 a pop--just a thought. ;)

Ya I know they can be had for cheap new, but I'd try and wait to snag a wheel/rcomp tire (used) off someone for like 400-500, instead of paying for both separately.

Nigel, Thank you very much for taking the time to put in all the information you have provided, it was an extremely nice write up.

As to everyone else, thank you as well for any information provided. The 94-95 here seem to be MUCH more expensive then the U.S. I was not planning on spending 5-6 on just the car. Either I wait around longer, or just take the bullet and get a 1.6 for 2-3k. Im not sure honestly, I think I would prefer waiting longer for what I originally wanted, rather than settling for less. However, on the miata forums, the debate goes back and forth just as much as we get the m42/m20 debate. Both sides have their logical reasoning.

[z31maniac]

619E30 is someone who should listened to and taken seriously.

Seriously.

[Wh33lhop]

- Raceland makes decent coils for about $300, but I wouldn't track them, otherwise go Stance or Megan.

:rofl:

[619E30]

Well here are the basics

- Get a 1.8 (aka BP) They are far stronger and have a much better drivetrain strength wise
- Find one with a preferably good top (replacements are pretty pricey) or hard top
- Raceland makes decent coils for about $300, but I wouldn't track them, otherwise go Stance or Megan.

[z31maniac]

I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if a small spacer plus rolling the fenders heavily would work.

I'm sure the folks on GRM or Miata.net would know.

[Wh33lhop]

Ah, good point, I was not aware of that--in that case, never mind, as the C3M and 15x9 6UL are identical fitment (15x9 +36)

[z31maniac]

From what I've read on miata.net, the short nose crank issue is way overblown. And nearly all failures are related to replacing the front seal, and not reinstalling the pulley correctly.

As for 15x9s, at least the 949 Racing wheels, they say you need to be running coilovers with narrow diameter springs to fit them. Just a note.

Not sure what else was covered, 1.6s have a VLSD while 1.8s have a Torsen, 1.6s get a 4.3 rear, 1.8s get a 4.1, although you can get a 4.3 Torsen out of a '99.

A Torsen into a 1.6 requires the half-shafts and driveshaft. 1.8s also got bigger brakes.

I wouldn't worry to much about the lack of chassis bracing on 1.6s, roll bar + Flyin Miata frame rail/Xbrace should be good enough.

No I have not been researching these.......

[Wh33lhop]

Used? You can get 15x9 C3Ms on tirerack for like $100 a pop--just a thought. ;)

[gverelli]

I was planning on buying used wheels, so anything that pops up in 15x7-8 Id snatch them up. Parts seem to be so readily available and cheap! Big brake kit new is 599$, can have a full exhaust from header to back for around 800$. My problem now is pricing for the 94-95 in my area are expensive! Minimum 5k+, a few at 4k buy like 250,000km and rust :s

[Wh33lhop]

For wheels/tires, I strongly suggest 15x7. Especially now; Toyo RA1s can be had CHEAP since the SCCA SM National guys are all switching over to Hoosiers for next year. I'll have a set of used 4/32 tires (my old rain tires) in a few weeks, and I'm sure many others will be dumping tires shortly (National championships were last weekend).

There are plenty of cheap, lightweight 15x8 and 15x9 wheels made in Miata fitment--I wouldn't limit myself to 15x7. 225/45s on a 15x9 is pretty much the quickest wheel/tire setup that can fit under stock fenders. While I know that quickest isn't necessary for driving fun, if you're getting RA1s you might as well go big or go home.

Stock suspension is OK - you could tune engine and add good brakes and you'll do fine to start learning the car and getting track time. Once you learn the car a bit, then go for the suspension upgrades.

I would check out a butterfly brace to help with cowl shake--Miata chassis are not the stiffest from the factory. Then, when you are ready to upgrade suspension, check out 949 racing's Xida line of coilovers. They are custom valved AST 5100 (and 5200) dampers spec'd out to maximize travel, and they are priced very very well for what they are. Emilio, who basically is 949 racing, worked closely with AST to come up with the dampers, and bought them in bulk to get much better pricing. He is also stupid fast around a track and knows his shit.

[NigelStu]

Majority of the weight difference between NA 1.6L cars and 1.8L cars is the chassis and differential, and the benefits in strength/rigidity of both out-weight (ha, no pun intended) the extra weight.

Easy weight reduction is similar to E30 weight reduction - take stuff out you don't need/want.
-A/C components (you don't really need that in Canada anyway, eh?)
-soft-top
-stereo (this is gonna be a track car right?)
-excess carpet/trim pieces/spare tire/jack/etc

For wheels/tires, I strongly suggest 15x7. Especially now; Toyo RA1s can be had CHEAP since the SCCA SM National guys are all switching over to Hoosiers for next year. I'll have a set of used 4/32 tires (my old rain tires) in a few weeks, and I'm sure many others will be dumping tires shortly (National championships were last weekend).

If you don't mind loud, Springfield Dyno exhaust makes very good power with a tuned engine. Also pretty simple to duplicate since its just a round Magnaflow located just aft of where the CAT normally sits. for more money and less noise, Arra (maybe Ara, not sure on spelling) makes a good setup that actually sounds not-so-terrible.
Intake, K&N type filter in stock housing isn't a bad way to go. If you do a cone type setup on a 1.6L car, make sure you get one that has a square outlet to match up to AFM shape. Advanced Autosport, Springfield Dyno and others make them.

For brakes, I highly recommend Cobalt Friction. Yes, I am a dealer for them (so maybe a bit biased), but I've also run Hawk Blue/Black, HT10, Carbotech as well and found the Cobalts to be superior. CF have great initial bite, good wear and awesome stopping power. If you are stuck on Hawks, I'd look at the new DTC60 or 70 pads before the HT10s.

Other tuning tips:
Timing - 14-16 degrees is the sweet spot for most engines. Some like a little more, some like a little less. Stock is ~10-12 degrees I think. A trip to a dyno is your friend here

Spark plugs - snag some NGK plugs with a 7 heat range number. I run the iridium ones. These engines run hot when tuned right and pushed, so they like the different heat range for track use. If you change the timing, make sure you put new plugs in.


Stock suspension is OK - you could tune engine and add good brakes and you'll do fine to start learning the car and getting track time. Once you learn the car a bit, then go for the suspension upgrades.

[gverelli]

^^Thanks for the posts everyone. So I have been shopping around and the prices for a 94+ are around 5k-7k which is way out of my budget. I was hoping for around 3k and for that I can only get a 91-93. There are even some 91s that cost 5k. I checked prices in the U.S and they are much cheaper. I really had my eye set of the 94 model for the 1.8, larger brakes, and stiffer chassis. So Im thinking just wait around until one more affordable comes around. How much heavier is the 1.8 model to the 1.6? AND, what are the options in terms of reducing weight? (Im talking light stuff, no major ripping out door cards..). If a 1.8 model can be brought down to 950kg I would be MORE than happy (I remember reading it was something like 980kg or something).

And Yes, parts seem to come super cheap! But my goal is to spend as least amount of money as possible. Looking at getting any lightweight model wheel approx 12.5lbs w/rcomps, HT-10s with stainless lines. Some sort of suspension (preferably coilovers but may be to much), exhaust, intake and done. So far the prices seem to be very reasonable, besides tires ofcourse, I even thought of keeping the small 14" wheels and get some r888 in 14", but they are skinny as hell so that is still up to debate.

[orignal teile]

Yeah, Miatas are stupid fun. You can throw them around like ragdolls. Maintenance is cheap. Parts are cheap. Parts are easy to come by. Do it.

not just that, insurance is also mad cheap if that matters. i learned how to drive stick on my dads miata that i inherited. so easy to work on, so predictable at the limit, and the feeling of the non-powersteering rack is quite amazing.
we also had a 96 with power steering, and i didnt like how it felt near as much as the manual steering rack. you can see the list of mods in my sig. its been stripped apart, constantly abused, driven hard, and with around 300k on the chassis and trans and 180k on the engine, it ran quite amazingly. especially with the 4.73 vlsd in the back. the crank pulley came off it while i was driving it the other day, so its parked for now, but otherwise it has been dead reliable.
you wont be disappointed. some people like the earlier 1.6l engines because of the higher redline, others, like me, prefer the more power of the 1.8l and its low down torque, comparatively. because of the 4.73 vlsd, it doesnt get the best mileage, but its the closest thing to a street/highway legal gokart that's mass produced and not a kit car.
the 90-93s have a lighter overall chassis, the 94+ na's had more structural bracing and added weight. with the poly bushings, coils, roll bar, and strut brace, my '92 feels quite stout. no squeaks.
i actually got my e30 because it reminded me ever so slightly of a german miata, with back seats, more weight, and a little more power. although, my miata is faster off the line than my e30. along with all the suspension work i have done to it. otherwise the engine is a bone stock 1.8l from a 96 with obd2

[carnurd]

Gordon's SuperMiata has about 350rwhp(might be up to 400 don't remember) and is usually one of the fastest cars at SpeedVentures' events.

[L8 apexr]

I love seeing CSP class miatas race! They carry some speed into corners and easily fit 275/35/15s under the body!!! Their suspension is just plain better than any e30.

L8 apexr - that thing is sweet! What does it weight? I sat in a passenger seat of the super 7 this past weekend, talk about on rails!

Thanks Jean,it weighs 927lbs and makes about 150hp right now.It's running on megasquirt and will be turbo'd for next season,I'm leaving the stock 11.8cr and running a low'ish boost of 8lbs and will easily make 230+hp(about 4lbs per hp).I currently set ftd by about 3 seconds,the goal is to set ftd by about 6 seconds as thats about what I need to outpax well set-up/driven miatas that usually take top pax.