School me on Miata's

[SlapDash]

Ha, that was the plan, but it sold in two shakes of a lamb's tail, or whatever the hell that saying is...

It had an LSD too...

[NigelStu]

Perzbnez, nice looking ride!

SlapDash - Pick that one up! Use the hard-top and whatever else you need from the car and sell the rest for $1500....

[NigelStu]

I've been racing Spec Miata for the last 6 years, so I know my way around them a bit.

Awesome reliable cheap fun. I built my car ground up from a 1992 (1.6L NA), 172,000 mile donor car. I finally pulled that same, unworked engine (with about 4k race miles) out at the end of last year in an attempt to get some more power. With the old motor, and Spec Miata rules (very limited mods) I was putting down ~113hp / 98 tq at the wheels. The new engine puts down 120 hp / 112 tq. This is with lots of tuning, large cone filter, exhaust - close to maxing out the 1.6L (within rules). the SM class has a spec suspension package - dampers, coil-over springs and sways, which gives a very capable chassis. That kit cost ~$1200.


Some breakdown on cars/years:
89-93 - 1.6L engine, small diff, NA body style (pop-up headlights).
94-97/98 - 1.8L engine, larger diff, NA body style
99+ 1.8L engine, larger diff, NB body style (fixed headlights)


When searching for a car, here are the big things to look for:

1. If its a 1.6L car, make sure the engine has the large-nose crank.
2. If its a 1.6L car, make sure the engine has a large-nose crank.
   (they changed mid-year in '91, but that doesn't mean the engine in the '90 you're looking at wasn't replaced)
3. rust (especially up by you) - rocker panels in front of the rear wheels is the most common place
4. Many of the higher end models (both 1.6 and 1.8 ) came with LSDs. on 1.6, its a viscous, on 1.8 it torsen - Mazdacomp sells a clutch type for the 1.6 (fricken expensive and I just had mine let go...). Look for these higher spec models if possible (The R model or M models have all the goodies).
5. Check the trans carefully - 3rd gear syncros are the first to go. Make some 2-3 shifts while turning right under power (sharp freeway on-ramp, or large parking lot. If you hear/feel any grinding, the syncros are on their way out.

Lots of more info can be found at www.miata.net (including the VIN # when they switched to the long-nose crank in '91)


LOTS of performance parts can be found relatively cheaply. Replacement parts are really cheap (rotors for $11). 15x7 wheels that are cheap and light (13.1 lbs) are all over the place, thanks to the SM crowd. TRM C1M, $89, Team Dynamics has a few for 100-120, Kosei's fit with a spacer. AND, SM class in SCCA just switched to Hoosiers for next year, so there should be a plethora of Toyo RA-1s available on the used market. Look for old 'rain' tires, or ones that were not shaved and maybe used 2-3 times.



If I were to build another Spec Miata, I'd start with a 1.8L NA car. Lots more torque can be made out of those engines. And the diff's are a lot stronger.


Hit me up if you need more info, help/questions with putting your car together, and if you want some of the best track brake pads available (I'm a dealer for Cobalt Friction...).



And yes, in a Miata you'll have a gay ol' time!

[SlapDash]

What E30 Gangsta said about the 1.6 liter, I think post-1993 is what you want.

There was a guy in Rhode Island selling one with a hardtop (which are ridiculously priced), newer soft top, tonneau cover and strut bar for $2,000. Don't pay too much.

I've daily driven a '96 NA, 1.8L for the past 8+ years through glaring heat, frigid snow and everything in between. The car is awesome all the way around.

Steering, awesome. Gearbox, wicked awesome.

My only complaints are the cost of new tops ($700+ for a good one, and I need one) and the fact that I don't have an LSD in may car (thought the car is still wicked fun).

Mine is bone stock except for a K & N filter. The only thing -- firmly knocking on wood -- that' I've needed so far is a clutch slave cylinder, which are fairly common I guess (I've had only one go in 8 years), brakes, shocks (I just replaced mine for the first time at 120,000 miles) and tune-ups. Timing belt needs to happen every 60,000, but it's non-interference.

Replacement parts are as cheap and used parts are as cheap and plentiful as E30 bits.

I prefer the NA body style over the others, although I do like the second gen (everything after is too fat and Americanized for me).

I thought they were chick cars until I test-drove one. When the salesman white-knuckled the door handle, I knew I wanted the car.

I say go for it and good luck with the search.

Cheers

[blefevre]

I've driven quite a few. They are all silly fun, every generation.

[perzbenz]

Yeah, Miatas are stupid fun. You can throw them around like ragdolls. Maintenance is cheap. Parts are cheap. Parts are easy to come by. Do it.

Here's mine so far

[87e30]

Ok, what year would this be? What are the main differences mechanically and aestethicaly? I like the look of the 90 so I hope the looks do not change. More importantly how much more expensive is this model?

My buddy with a miata swears by the 1.6... so I'd do some more reading.

But yeah, there was a crank bolt issue of some kind that I can't remember exactly, try googling it.

I'll swear by these cars being a blast to drive.

[gverelli]

If your going to buy a na. Try to purchase a later model, anything with a 1.8 liter engine and a non short nose crank.

Ok, what year would this be? What are the main differences mechanically and aestethicaly? I like the look of the 90 so I hope the looks do not change. More importantly how much more expensive is this model?

[e30 gangsta]

If your going to buy a na. Try to purchase a later model, anything with a 1.8 liter engine and a non short nose crank.

[bernzpeed]

I've owned several miatas and i would like to say, that they drive like go karts it is so fun. i've owned miatas from each year from 91 to 97. but my favorite was my 97, with racing beats sways and frog braces to compliment the rear strut bars and it is so much fun to drive. mine sat on kyb agx 8-way adjustable shocks and eibach springs. maintenance is super cheap, i replaced the top myself, super easy.

if that helps at all

[nando]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=84452

:giggle:

[Vince30]

At work the other day I had to drop start a brand new one at the gas station. I weigh under 140lbs and was able to do it by myself, that was very rewarding.

[Gary Horneck]

They are insanely easy to drive fast. That low CG and short wheelbase, along with some of the best steering feedback I have ever experienced, made me not want one. Too easy. Even lightly modded they just hang on if not jerked around. They take a lot of abuse well, they have cheap tires, and there are too many running AutoX. I like running the E30 at the limit. Its more rewarding I think.

[Vince30]

I drove one around the block like 6 months ago, if I recall corectly I wished the steering ratio was a little tighter than it was. But bone stock it stayed planted very nicely. Feels just like you are driving a go-cart. Wasn't very fast but there was no need to slow down for corners.

[gverelli]

I drove one once, they are so much fun its retarded.

Really! How is the steering input on it?