Jongbloed 15x10 On Track Car

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  • Eric
    replied
    Originally posted by SNEAK413
    Where can these be purchased?

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  • Emre
    replied
    I was looking into those American Racer slicks. Wonder how they compare to Hoosier cantilever slicks?

    What size are you running?

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  • RoccoB517
    replied
    Like this?

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  • Eric
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    Bumping this thread for more pics.

    Good idea!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Bumping this thread for more pics.

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  • SNEAK413
    replied

    Guess I will have to get rid of my bbs decals


    And as mentioned need a 25mm spacer as a 20 does not fit.
    Last edited by SNEAK413; 10-27-2015, 10:00 AM.

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  • Northern
    replied
    @ Rob how close are you to hitting anything on the inside of the wheel/tire in the rear?
    (and what is it?)

    I want to do something similar, but keep the spacer/roll and pull to a minimum in the rear. I have adjustable shock mounts, so I can move that in, and I'll notch the trailing arm if necessary, but I don't know what else is close.

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  • z31maniac
    replied
    SM7s are supposedly better with heat cycles.

    But if you aren't racing where they are the spec tire, or in a class with a contingency (NASA PT/TT) the purple crack isn't worth it.

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Yeah I only used my SM6 takeoffs for 2-3 events before dumping em. Came with 6 heat cycles on em and seemed to fall off pretty quickly.

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  • HennaE30
    replied
    To your point on the takeoffs, my dad used to use takeoffs on his E46M street/track car (true coils, adjustable camber arms, etc) and he would go through a set in 2 events, on a "relatively" smooth track (as smooth as concrete can be I guess). Tried another full slick? Assuming R6s are similar to NT-01s, and not takeoffs.

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  • GillesBigCowboy
    replied
    lap times faster with Hoosiers, or Nittos?

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  • robgoesvroom
    replied

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  • SNEAK413
    replied
    Any pics of the side showing the entire car?

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  • RoccoB517
    replied
    I thought I'd jump back in and share a little feedback on these since I've run a few events now. The grip is great with the 245/40r15 Hoosier R6, but despite being slightly stretched on the wheels I've found that feedback is a bit numb and turn in isn't as crisp as my 225 Nitto NT-01 on 8" wheels. I have my camber adjustment in the rear maxed out to 2.5 degrees, but I will be building custom trailing arms during the off season because I feel like 3 degrees will be best, especially with the giant wing I have on the car now.

    To help the car turn better I'm planning on taking some of the caster out. I felt the car was most stable and effective with 9.8 degrees of caster before the bigger wheels/tires, but this setup is acting completely differently (as is to be expected).

    Another thing to note is that I CANNOT keep tires on the car. I could be getting unlucky with the take-offs, but I definitely don't feel like I'm overdriving them. They are cycling out super fast, and I'm thinking that the need for more camber in the rear might be killing them.

    I will be starting next racing season on a set of 274/35r15 R6's, and will be picking up a second set of the Jongbloed wheels with some 245/40r15 Maxxis RC-01 on them, so that will give me an opportunity to test them side by side and provide some further information on that.

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  • RoccoB517
    replied
    Originally posted by team9
    Any videos from the track weekend Rocco?
    Sorry, no video this time around. More working on the car happened than driving the car. I'll try to get some at CMP, if not the Dragon in June.

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