Harness setup

[Helical]

I am considering a harness setup for possible auto cross only. I have already ordered a Corbeau A4 seat to replace the destroyed driver seat of mine. I wanted to retain the oem seatbelts for street purposes. I was thinking about going with a harness bar and a 4pt harness. Would this be a decent route for auto cross? The car already has a lsd and a really nice suspension setup front to rear.

What are some good ideas for a beginner?

[2mAn]

I am considering a harness setup for possible auto cross only. I have already ordered a Corbeau A4 seat to replace the destroyed driver seat of mine. I wanted to retain the oem seatbelts for street purposes. I was thinking about going with a harness bar and a 4pt harness. Would this be a decent route for auto cross? The car already has a lsd and a really nice suspension setup front to rear.

What are some good ideas for a beginner?

Does the seat have the dickhole for the 5th/ 6th belt? Definitely go with a proper 5/6 point belt and stay away from the harness bar. Do it right so you dont cripple yourself.

If its JUST for autocross, then the seat and the OEM 3pt should be fine

[Helical]

Does the seat have the dickhole for the 5th/ 6th belt? Definitely go with a proper 5/6 point belt and stay away from the harness bar. Do it right so you dont cripple yourself.

If its JUST for autocross, then the seat and the OEM 3pt should be fine

The corbeau a4 does not have the hole for the 5th point. Can't afford the roll cage and I am not entirely sure I want to drill the holes for one. Maybe something I can take in and out easily. Well, that's my current train of thought.

[Jb325is]

My friend's autocross car had a 4 pt harness, it was little weird because I was used to 6 but it definitely kept me from moving more than stock. Just don't hit anything with that setup, you'll end up in the floorboard.

[Fooshe]

The corbeau a4 does not have the hole for the 5th point. Can't afford the roll cage and I am not entirely sure I want to drill the holes for one. Maybe something I can take in and out easily. Well, that's my current train of thought.

If you can exchange the seat, do it. 4 pt harnesses are, in my opinion, worthless. If you need a harness set up, get a 5/6 set up. IF you hit something hard, you'll be glad you did.

Harness bars are, for lack of a better description, worthless. They rotate and sometimes fail on impact.

Save your money and get a simple G-lock for your stock belts if you want to strap yourself down. They work well if you install them correctly. Also, the 3 pt factory belt is safer for you if you crash than a 4 pt with a harness bar, especially if they are not installed correctly. The body dynamics are much more forgiving and allow for deflective energy dispersion rather than static energy transfer. More simply put, the 3 pt lets your body move and roll with the energy lessening the impact to the occupant progressively. The 4 pt compresses you were you are and what is not strapped down has to deal with the transfer of energy, meaning if you torso and shoulders don't give much, your head and neck absorb all the energy....no Bueno.

ANYTIME you use harnesses, you MUST wear a head and neck restraint system (hans, or the like).

Trust me on this one...

[rwh11385]

Reclining seat (like you have) + stock belts + CG-Lock is the best way to do auto-x IMO if you don't want to go fixed back + roll-bar + 5/6 point

http://www.cg-lock.com/autocross.html

I've auto-xed for years with just a CG-Lock and it was pretty good. I have a cage + fixed shell + 5 pt + HANS in my racecar and IMO not worth the effort for Auto-X

[redlightpete]

For track days, I would just slide the seat back, lock the seatbelt by tugging it quickly, and then slide the seat back up to tighten the belt. It worked well, though my collarbone was a little sore by the end of the weekend. Besides being free, it also holds your torso stationary vs. the seatbelt locks that only hold the lap belt portion (right?).