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  • TobyB
    replied
    The steering rack is the least of my classification concerns now.
    How can it be to find a hood?

    Problem solved!

    heh

    Nice!

    t

    Leave a comment:


  • e30mclow
    replied
    In the Member's Rides sub-forum

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=417857

    Leave a comment:


  • R3VM3UP
    replied
    Nice! Details on the build somewhere?

    Leave a comment:


  • e30mclow
    replied
    The steering rack is the least of my classification concerns now lol

    Leave a comment:


  • jr02518
    replied
    This is "into the weeds", but for those of us that race to a set of rules, it's mana. The November SCCA Fastrack under the solo section lists a 2019 rules update for the Prepared classes. In FP I can run my 1987 BMW 325 that has a '91 NV M50 motor. The penalty is an extra 249.5 lbs, 10% of engine displacement. But as the car sits, a NASA legal 2345, I have 195.5 lbs to remove. Over time. As money allows I will take a page from Colin Chapman and add lightness!

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • R3VM3UP
    replied
    I don't really see what the issue is of what class you run with. Run in whatever class the rules say you should run in and compare your times to whoever you want. If you don't think your steering rack makes you faster, then judge your time against other stock E30s, even if they aren't in your class. I also see camber plates in your photo, those will put you out of the stock class as well. The camber plates definitely provide a more measurable advantage than a steering rack.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by lcoleman View Post
    e30s get completely and totally hosed in SoloII classing. I was lucky enough that our region has an unofficial "run what you brung if your tires are 200+ treadwear" class and managed to win two championships before the cars that were actually fast (turbo Miata, SCed Elise, etc) started running enough events to win.

    My advice is to run DSP or something and focus on raw time. If your region is small or medium-sized and you can get top 10, you're a pretty good driver. The best autox setup I found was 205 RE71s on 15x8 +20s. If you can fit a 15x9/225 for a reasonable budget, please share how!

    I’ve ran 15x8 with 225/50 and 225/45 Kumho v710 and Hoosier a6 on my early model without any fitment issues in the past . For what it’s worth.

    15x9 with 245 has been confirmed as working / clearing as well in the other threads and I’d go for that as bare minimum if you have an engine swap.

    My previous m30b35 swap with 225 dot r tires was tire limited , did manage to finish in top 3 for the season in SM but it wasn’t easy against other cars with either more HP and/or more tire .

    Leave a comment:


  • e30mclow
    replied
    Originally posted by jr02518 View Post
    I'm working at getting an older NASA GT2 E30 back up an running and with the M50 I'm running in XP. The seat time is proving to be worth the effort. I am finding things that would quickly end a track session. The latest are the subframe bushings that at 10+ years old have started to brake up. I found some of the evidence on the trailer after unloading when I got home. I now understand the funky transitions through the cones.
    Photos right meowwww. Sounds like a fun project

    Leave a comment:


  • jr02518
    replied
    I'm working at getting an older NASA GT2 E30 back up an running and with the M50 I'm running in XP. The seat time is proving to be worth the effort. I am finding things that would quickly end a track session. The latest are the subframe bushings that at 10+ years old have started to brake up. I found some of the evidence on the trailer after unloading when I got home. I now understand the funky transitions through the cones.

    This is a link that started a quest, https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...E30-GTS2-325is

    I have made contact with the owner who had listed the car. It had made it's way back to the west coast and I have been getting it back into track shape. The body, passenger door has a wrinkle and front fenders have been pulled, is a solid 20 footer. The 3.90 turned out to be a 4.10 that is getting swapped for much fresher 3.73, it never ends with these things.

    David
    Last edited by jr02518; 05-01-2018, 07:09 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • lcoleman
    replied
    e30s get completely and totally hosed in SoloII classing. I was lucky enough that our region has an unofficial "run what you brung if your tires are 200+ treadwear" class and managed to win two championships before the cars that were actually fast (turbo Miata, SCed Elise, etc) started running enough events to win.

    My advice is to run DSP or something and focus on raw time. If your region is small or medium-sized and you can get top 10, you're a pretty good driver. The best autox setup I found was 205 RE71s on 15x8 +20s. If you can fit a 15x9/225 for a reasonable budget, please share how!

    Leave a comment:


  • TobyB
    replied
    Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
    Auto racing in a nutshell.
    I know he's cheating, because I'm cheating like a SOB and he's beating me!

    t

    Leave a comment:


  • Sh3rpak!ng
    replied
    If you're running autox just for fun, then I'd say who cares what class you're in. Not sure how they organize your events, but at all the ones I've been to theres a big board that displays times so you can pick out a couple of cars/drivers that you think you ought to be competitive with and compare yourself.

    To start though you're probably best off just focusing on yourself and concentrating corner at a time to pull your personal times down. After you start going more frequently you can kind of judge what you/the car is capabale of and aim for that. You'll also start recognizing cars/drivers that go regularly and gauge the course based on the times they put down (because they're more experienced and consistent).

    Leave a comment:


  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Originally posted by TobyB View Post
    And I never said we weren't cheating, just that we've not gotten caught!
    Auto racing in a nutshell.

    Leave a comment:


  • TobyB
    replied
    I'm still having fun, but I'd imagine it'd be more fun against comparable cars and not stripped s54 cars on slicks lol
    Then take out the rack, and classify lower. The rules are what they are, and they classify
    your car. Some sanctions (NASA, ICSCC, etc) have mechanisms whereby reasonable
    reclassifications of parts aren't that hard.

    Others (SCCA) are more inscrutible.

    You also have to figure that everything you have done to a limited extent
    will be taken to an extreme by competitive national aspirants.
    Thus, the SpecMiata rules against 1/2" thick roll bar base plates, holes in the radiator, etc.
    As strange as they seem initially, almost every rule has a pretty fantastic story behind it.

    So those of us who get sucked into the competition start developing to the limit
    of the rules we want to run. If you wanna show up in a less competitive car,
    cool, go for it, but if you want to show up in an illegal yet still uncompetitive
    car, you may very well get protested,
    because you're undercutting the line we've all worked so hard and spent so much money
    to get right up against without crossing. It's not you, it's us.

    And I never said we weren't cheating, just that we've not gotten caught!

    heh

    t

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    In the local events it doesn't matter as much , but I give you kudos for being honest about it and actually checking the rules!

    I say go for it, chances are nobody will complain unless you start beating someone in your class that is competing for a trophy then he / she may say something about it :)

    Leave a comment:

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