on the street prob not, but on the track where speeds are much higher yeah... Not everyone has million dollar budgets to race but that doesn't mean you should take a beater to the track.
Think about this OP:
Face a fan at a wall. Where does the air go? Most of it will bounce back where it came from, ie dumping large amts of air under the car. Very little will go down the sides of the wall, ie "out the fins". Now take the same fan and duct it so the air can only go along the wall. Where does the air go this time? Down the sides of the wall, ie "out the fins".
Fading brakes and air dumping under your car causing lift = a disaster waiting to happen.
40 buck brake duct kit
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^^ Seriously? Let's not be melodramatic, ineffective brake ducts aren't going to hurt anybody.Leave a comment:
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It depends who you buy the plates from. Good ones are made to fit VERY close to the rotor. There isn't a way to make a seal from the rotor to a backing plate :???:. If there was it wouldn't make much of a diff. Although having a backing plate and not IS a big diff. The plate does a much better job directing the air through the rotor.1. the car is a track car
2. the hose is always facing the middle of the rotor in the vained portion... even the hose is ovalized to have maximum surface area on the vained portion...this idea was taken from the spec 30 forums ... plus a metal backing plate dosnt make a seal so there is no reasonable way you can say the air is directed into the center at all times... its probably just insulating a layer of hot air between the rotor and itself
3. the car comes with stock brake ducts thus by directing the air into the wheel there is less lift.... yet i feel that the difference is negligible
If this really is a track car I suggest not half assing the job so you don't hurt yourself or others. Its ok to do things cheap as long as what you do isn't cheap...Leave a comment:
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1. the car is a track caras cool as you might feel w/ these, they are pointless.
One, the air is just blowing on the rotor. You need a plate so the air is forced into the middle of the rotor and forced out of the fins.
Two, you don't need these on the street. Infact you if they were actually doing anything, ie pt 1, you would more than likely be over cooling them on the street.
And three, you are just dumping air under your car. More air under your car = more lift...
2. the hose is always facing the middle of the rotor in the vained portion... even the hose is ovalized to have maximum surface area on the vained portion...this idea was taken from the spec 30 forums ... plus a metal backing plate dosnt make a seal so there is no reasonable way you can say the air is directed into the center at all times... its probably just insulating a layer of hot air between the rotor and itself
3. the car comes with stock brake ducts thus by directing the air into the wheel there is less lift.... yet i feel that the difference is negligibleLeave a comment:
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they do not rub at all while at full lockLast edited by p0cket penguins; 02-04-2009, 08:16 AM.Leave a comment:
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as cool as you might feel w/ these, they are pointless.
One, the air is just blowing on the rotor. You need a plate so the air is forced into the middle of the rotor and forced out of the fins.
Two, you don't need these on the street. Infact you if they were actually doing anything, ie pt 1, you would more than likely be over cooling them on the street.
And three, you are just dumping air under your car. More air under your car = more lift...Leave a comment:
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40 buck brake duct kit
So I bought some Allstar 3 inch brake duct and decided to make my own ducts.... The pictures below are missing the bracket where the hose connects to the strut.... I basically took the duct and ovalized it a bit for clearance and then took two worm clamps and bound it to the strut.... I have drive on them for 2 weeks and they are still perfect plus I have no rubbing.







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