Originally posted by IRON-E
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Originally posted by Chilezen View PostMy goal is to build my downpipes around the stock CAB; I want to keep the rubber bushings for a decent ride quality.
Yeah he knocked down the subframe to get the pipes to fit as well. I hope to not do that, but I'll see when the times comes.
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Originally posted by e30strokr View Post
I got the pipes t fit by loosening the exhaust manifolds and fit the downpipe into them and tighten the manifolds... 5 mm spacers on the motor mounts for clearance.. and everything fits.. no banging or bending the pipes, it is a tight fit by the control arms
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Interesting info on the movement of the engine as I've yet to encounter this situation. I've been on e46 non M engine mounts for the past 3 years and this does not seem to be a problem for me. I also kept OE trans bushings with the ZF and again NO problems.Last edited by IRON-E; 08-21-2021, 01:04 PM.@IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D
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Anybody in San Diego have any recommendations for tint shops? Also curious as to what percent people around here have on their cars.
I'm just looking to reduce the cabin temperature because of how hot it gets, so I was thinking 50 or 35 would be good and wouldn't have me getting pulled over. Let me know your guys's suggestions though! I'd like to retain the fishbowl look but my old tint is horrid and I just can't stand this heat.
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Originally posted by rudy View PostAnybody in San Diego have any recommendations for tint shops? Also curious as to what percent people around here have on their cars.
I'm just looking to reduce the cabin temperature because of how hot it gets, so I was thinking 50 or 35 would be good and wouldn't have me getting pulled over. Let me know your guys's suggestions though! I'd like to retain the fishbowl look but my old tint is horrid and I just can't stand this heat.
Don't know SD area shops anymore.
But if you go dark as possible on the rear & back-side windows 75-90%, & lighter on the front side driver & passenger windows <35-50% - then it will look more like you have no tint on the latter - which is all that Chips/Cops care about by law.
Also always use a windshield sunscreen whenever you're parked - both to keep it cool inside & to save your dash top from cracking.
Mine was good until the kids starting driving my 325e & weren't good about the sunscreen * now I need to replace it.
Cheers!
Tom
///////Cheers!
Tom
Orange, CA, SoCal
1985 325e 2dr Coupe, Orig. Owner
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1973 Porsche 914-2.0 "914S", 2nd Owner since Dec. 1975
1985 VW Vanagon CamperGL Westfalia, Orig. Owner
1960 Avion T20 Travel Trailer (sim. to Airstream), Restored, Owner #3-4+?
1970 Eriba Puck Travel Trailer, 90% Original, Owner #5?
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If anyone needs parts - OEM or aftermarket - let me know. Obviously it will be hard for me to beat the big online wholesalers in price, but I'll try to at least match the best deals you can find online.
Example prices:
H&R race - $350
H&R sport - $230
Bilstein B8 - $165 F, $116 R
Koni Yellow - $172 F, $130 R
Sparco Hub - $80
Magnaflow 14815 - $275 (can do a bit better, but can't advertise a lower price)
I have access to a lot of big-brand aftermarket companies, and it doesn't need to be for an e30. Get pretty good dealer pricing too. Hit me up and I'll try to source it for you.Last edited by E30SPDFRK; 08-30-2021, 04:36 PM.Byron
Leichtbau
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Bogus. I had to drop the trans out because the tab that holds the shift carrier snapped. So I had to weld that back together. Now I'm waiting to use the shop space again to put the trans back in.
I had/have an issue with the trans sitting too close to the passenger side tunnel, which I think I've fixed, but I'll see once I put it back in.
The X3 booster is a hair too big, the widest part digging into the corner of the m52 manifold. I had to space up the arm with a washer to lift it away.
Apparently my '87 is the only year with a proportioning valve held by a bracket underneath the master cylinder. I asked around if anyone's seen it before, nobody could confirm, just guess what it was. I couldn't decide whether to keep it when routing the brake lines to the new master.. I kept it. But routing/bending the hard lines was cumbersome.
There's a few "early model" nuances that I'm dealing with, like creating brackets to hold the newer radiator, and changing out the CSB from a late to early version.
I thought this would take two weeks, and it almost did, up until the need to drop the trans. Now it's looking like 5-6 weeks cuz I have to work out the time to use work space. Building the exhaust will take a couple days alone.
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