Originally posted by oliver.r
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NOR-CAL General Chat.
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Some random ramblings...
As I look for a replacement E30, it is interesting prioritizing my requirements / desires.
I like blue, but if a car already had nice paint, I wouldn't change it. I think Oliver can paint a car for around $2000. How much body work is acceptable. A few dents here and there?
No Rust (well maybe some surface rust around the battery tray)
How much work am I willing to do to convert to IS trim level?
Premium sound
13 button computer
Sport seats
Auto to Manual?
If I change from 318 to 325, do I have to go to CARB referee?
How do you know if a car has fees due, before you buy a clunker?
Do I want to build "My" own car, or buy someone else's project...?
So many considerations....
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Originally posted by Tinkerer007 View PostIf I change from 318 to 325, do I have to go to CARB referee?past:
1989 325is (learner shitbox)
1986 325e (turbo dorito)
1991 318ic (5-lug ITB)
1985 323i baur
current:
1995 M3 (suspension, 17x9/255-40, borla)
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Originally posted by kronus View Postactually no you don't
if the swap is to an engine that came in that chassis, you don't need to get it ref'd
Honestly if what you want is an M20 E30, just buy an M20 E30. I wouldn't bother swapping a non-M20 for an M20.
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Originally posted by kronus View Postactually no you don't
if the swap is to an engine that came in that chassis, you don't need to get it ref'd
they used to complain about my car every time because the state's data about the 318ic was wrong- they think it came with a 3.73 final so every time i got the thing smogged they asked me if i'd changed the rear end. (which i had, but from 4.27 to 4.10).past:
1989 325is (learner shitbox)
1986 325e (turbo dorito)
1991 318ic (5-lug ITB)
1985 323i baur
current:
1995 M3 (suspension, 17x9/255-40, borla)
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Originally posted by kronus View Postget a clean shell, everything else is easier to deal with than the shell.
In reading about swapping M20 in to 318, there are brackets needed for overflow tank and stuff. Car with an M20 will be easier. I see a blue one with auto...
I like how Cabriolet has done his car. I don't need as much perfection, but I like the level of modifications.
Thanks again.
Bob
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Originally posted by Tinkerer007 View PostThanks to everyone for the feedback.
In reading about swapping M20 in to 318, there are brackets needed for overflow tank and stuff. Car with an M20 will be easier. I see a blue one with auto...
I like how Cabriolet has done his car. I don't need as much perfection, but I like the level of modifications.
Thanks again.
Bob
I think you're on the right track trying to find an m20 car. If you got an eta model, I would assume you could swap in your "i" motor and nobody would notice come smog time, and you're more likely to find a blue car from the early models as well. Aside from Cirrus Blue and Lazur Blue, I can't say late models deviate from the standard variations of Red, White, Black, and Silver (...and the occasional bronzit). As Kronus had mentioned though, find the cleanest shell possible...it'll save you in the long run.
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you could buy my car.
but in all honesty. getting a car that needs only a little work is really nice. i have 2900 hours into mine and 30k. and it's not worth it.
figure out what you want, a show car, a track car, or a dd.
then buy something that works in your budget.
don't want a show car and need a dd like i did. it just gets destroyed on the commute if not even totaled by someone idiot using their phone to take a selfie in traffic.
i did an e36 rack swap today and put in a all new power steering system.
YL7A4528 by Eric Berger, on Flickr
very worth the $1000 spent on everything
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Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
i did an e36 rack swap today and put in a all new power steering system.
YL7A4528 by Eric Berger, on Flickr
very worth the $1000 spent on everything
I also have a e36 rack on the e30, definitely one of the best upgrades you can do for our cars.
Nice under carriage, everything looks so clean :)
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