NOR-CAL General Chat.

[Vivek]

Four hours max:D

I hope so. I've basically done all this before other than taking apart the strut assemblies, and as of now I have no set way on how to cut off the spring perches, so I could easily blow 2 hours trying to track down a sawzall if my neighbor with a machine shop can't help.


And cmybimmer--I got the street coilover kit. There's no strut assemblies or camber plates, but I got the coil overs (adjusters, springs, top hats, o-rings, D-rings, etc) and Koni dampers.

[mbonanni]

Are you getting your housings modified?

[Vivek]

Nope, i have stock length konis.

[mbonanni]

How low do you plan to go?

Do you have any cars you are using as your inspiration? Like stance-wise?

[Vivek]

I'm really not sure. The front will be limited to how much I can turn with pulled fenders and no camber plates. Tires will likely be 205/40-45/17, on a 7.5, and the offset could be as low as -2. I may have to machine the adapters down a little bit if it proves to be a big issue. But I won't have those wheels for a while, so for now it'll be limited to whatever wheels/tires i'm on and unpulled fenders (because I don't want to pull them before getting new wheels). The rear will basically match the front, i'll have the frame rail leaned slightly forward.

Basically I plan to tuck around 0.5-1" of tire up front, and just about level the rear fenders with a 17" rim (and I mean the rim of the wheel). In my eyes that's not raked because the frame rail isn't leaned backwards. Right now my car has reverse rake, I'll post up a pic tomorrow.

[dhcg86]

Ive got an iphone 5 brand new in box, think anyone would wanna trade me stuffs for it? verizon phone

[Vivek]

What do you need/want?

[golde30]

Coilovers with no camber plates?
Are you at least gonna weld the collar on that supports the sleeve? M3 sway bar end link brackets? For all that work, seems like yer still doin it half-assed.

[Vivek]

Camber plates are fucking expensive. I may do it down the line, i sincerely wish I could right now but I really can't. At this point I have no plans to weld the D-ring or get M3 brackets. I will get adjustable front sway links, once I have my ride height finalized I'll look into what exactly I need for the front sway.

EDIT: the only reason I'm not welding the D-ring or M3 brackets is because I don't have easy access to a welder. What's the benefit of welding the D-ring since it already sits on a solid weld?

[dhcg86]

no idea what I want, prolly sick set of wheels or an exhaust and something cool

looks like iphone will sell for 800 though

[Vivek]

Sick exhaust?

[dhcg86]

vivek. I might need that exhaust otherwise.

we should meet up sometime sooooooon

[Vivek]

Yeah man let me know. Sell/trade for an iPhone 5 is good with me.

[golde30]

D-ring is to provide a solid base for the collar/spring/ pretty much the entire suspension load. Vs the remainders of the perch which are only marginally larger than the diameter of the collar.

Don't get me wrong, you can run GC without doing this, and the collar cannot drop off or all the way down, it could however get smashed onto the perch and cause damage to the GC parts and or your suspension parts.

It's just a case of doing it the rite way VS the easy way.

[Vivek]

So the pressure of the adjuster sleeve against the D-ring could damage the adjuster or the sleeve? I could get it welded or tacked on if it's important, but I don't want to spend more money than necessary when it's already tight. If that money would be better put towards a set of camber plates in a few months, i'd rather do that, but of course I wouldn't risk damage to my suspension components because I was too cheap to get something welded.

This is how I plan to have it set up, with the D-ring sitting on the existing spring perch weld:


Could you explain how it's less likely to cause any damage if it's welded? I feel like a dick asking that and doubting you, but I'd just like to educate myself so I know what I'm doing.