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hey guys why would my mas air meter wires burn/melt. Took me 30 min to seperate them and barely got home. It would just die at first when giving it throttle?
A short to either ground or another wire. When wires get too hot and burn through their insulation it means that the wire is letting too much current flow through them. This is why fuses are needed.
So that when current flows beyond a given amperage rating the fuse blows instead of the wire heating to a point where it either melts or breaks. Fuses are essentially the sacrificial lamb in the circuit.
They are designed to blow before the wiring. Replacing a fuse = much easier and more cost effective than replacing a portion of wire or some of the wiring harness.
The fact that you have melted wiring indicates 2 things.
1. The fuse that is installed for your MAF is of too high a value and a lower value is needed. It obviously did not pop once the current reached peak levels.
2. You have a short or crossed wiring somewhere within the MAF circuit. This includes internally within the MAF itself.
Since the MAF sensor is regulating a flap that controls air flow through the throttle body it would be a good idea to pull the MAF and look through the opening on both sides and make sure that the flap can move and is not stuck closed or has some sort of "sticktion" the inability to actuate the flap may cause a rise in current flow.
PM Jlieve on here and pose this question to him. Lots of experience with the electrical systems interconnections.
I would also see where those wires connect using the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) for your make and model.
So who knows A/C systems here? Mine has never worked, was recharged a couple weeks before I bought the car (Its hard to tell if its actually working when its late November, in Canada. The outside air temp is as cold if not colder than the working a/c temp.) R12 system. The light on the button lights up, the compressor appears to engage, the aux fan does not kick on, however it does work when the engine temp gets to about the middle of the gauge. I replaced both switches on the thermostat earlier this year (before that, the aux fan didn't work at all.) With the compressor running for a good 15 minutes, neither of the hard lines get cold, no condensation on the dryer either. (I have a feeling the dryer is suspect since the a/c won't dry the air in the car in the winter) I've heard R12 will escape from systems that aren't used, but also the compressor won't kick on if the pressure is low. I've regularly cycled the compressor about once a week for short periods of time to keep the seals lubed up.
Any ideas? I've never messed with a/c systems so I'm a little at a loss here.
Fuck boy ploice officers came to start shit with me..
A man cant work on his project!?
They are not starting shit with you so much as one of your neighbors or regular passers by are . These notices are initiated the majority of the time by citizens calling in a complaint. There are "blight " ordinances in all counties. They are put in place to make sure that inoperative cars don't stack up on the lawns and flood the driveways . Typically leaking oil and other fluids that stains and kills grass/vegetation. The law is written in a manner that unfortunately does not make an exception and allow one car to be worked upon.
The law helps keep property values high by seeking to deter visual blight.
I've gone through this in the past to a certain extent and don't be fooled . Failure to take action can and will cause escalation including towing of the vehicle from private property. The County can and will exercise the right to indirectly "steal" your e30.
I and am sure you don't want that to happen. Make smart and calculated decisions to protect your investment!
So who knows A/C systems here? Mine has never worked, was recharged a couple weeks before I bought the car (Its hard to tell if its actually working when its late November, in Canada. The outside air temp is as cold if not colder than the working a/c temp.) R12 system. The light on the button lights up, the compressor appears to engage, the aux fan does not kick on, however it does work when the engine temp gets to about the middle of the gauge. I replaced both switches on the thermostat earlier this year (before that, the aux fan didn't work at all.) With the compressor running for a good 15 minutes, neither of the hard lines get cold, no condensation on the dryer either. (I have a feeling the dryer is suspect since the a/c won't dry the air in the car in the winter) I've heard R12 will escape from systems that aren't used, but also the compressor won't kick on if the pressure is low. I've regularly cycled the compressor about once a week for short periods of time to keep the seals lubed up.
Any ideas? I've never messed with a/c systems so I'm a little at a loss here.
Thanks,
Will
Check pressure by blipping the valve under the black spin off cap on the small lines near the pass side fender. Dont breathe the released gas if possible. Is there any refrigerant released? If not, BOOM . Seals leaking and allowing refrigerant to vent to atmosphere. Against the law as it has to be reclaimed using special tanks , but if its a seal failure then how in the world could one be prosecuted ? So knowingly venting to atmosphere is against the law, but unknowlingy happens every day by cars with faulty seals.
So just got off the phone with the dyno guy. I'll cross post this in a new thread too. This is for 7/6 and 7/7, not this upcoming weekend.
Anyway,
He is getting to Laguna around 10am Saturday 7/6 and plans to run 11-5 Sat, 8-4 Sun.
It is first come first served for both days, and it is $59 for three runs with A/F as well as a laminated printout. He estimates fifteen minutes or so per car, and has lots of experience with E30, E36, E46, etc.
He is setting up in the dyno in the main paddock area, and even though it's a NASA weekend there is no fee to go get to the paddock.
I am going Sunday morning, probably aiming to get there around 9-10am. Anyone else wanna go?
Please also respond in thread in CA section if you're going, just to keep an organized list.
2017 Chevrolet SS, 6MT
95 M3/2/5 (S54 and Mk60 DSC, CARB legal, Build Thread)
98 M3/4/5 (stock)
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