Colorado general chat...

[blefevre]

Low miles, cheap price. That's the one!

[joshw02]

It's a truck, I don't like trucks. Or more precisely I don't want a truck as my daily driver. Trucks are fine for hauling stuff, or off-road. But since I don't do either of those regularly I don't want or need a truck.

I've been using my suburban as a daily ever since I sold my Urs4, it's great for hauling kids and tools but that's about it. Good thing my wife has a 400hp subaru or I'd be going crazy.

[Cloudbase]

I would kill myself driving a suburban as my DD. However driving 25 hours straight from FL to CO in one shot with 3 other dudes and 4 hang gliders the suburban was the shit! I actually slept comfortably upright in the back seat.

I've been begrudgingly DDing my Tacoma and it is somewhat nimble for a truck. I miss the E30. I'm not allowed in the showroom of Boulder Toyota because I went on several angry rants at Toyota when they brought out the bigger 05 Tacoma. It's too fucking big for some of the sketchy 4WD roads at various hang gliding sites in the mountains. Toyota sold out. I felt betrayed. The new Tundra is fucking hideous.

[Cloudbase]

Back in E30 world I'm going to start replacing my rear shocks, springs, and all rubber bushings tomorrow. Dropping the subframe seems like the obvious way to do this, that is what you guys would do right? I feel like I should replace my rear axles and wheel bearings while I'm at it. Fuck this project is snowballing.

[iamsam]

Back in E30 world I'm going to start replacing my rear shocks, springs, and all rubber bushings tomorrow. Dropping the subframe seems like the obvious way to do this, that is what you guys would do right? I feel like I should replace my rear axles and wheel bearings while I'm at it. Fuck this project is snowballing.

Yes you need to drop your subframe. I suggest poly bushings. More longevity, and waaay easier to install (no pressing needed).

You don't need new rear axles unless your boots are ripped, and rear wheel bearings are the same difficulty whether or not the subframe is installed in the car, so that doesn't have to snowball.

[Cloudbase]

I got the stock SFB's because of cost. Along with TAB's and all sway bar rubber. Both axles have torn boots, one is just starting to go bad with slight play. I found a DIY at E30 world that seems pretty comprehensive. The only part I'm leary of is the ebrake stuff.

[Roland H]

If the axles have play in them, bring them to a shop and have them rebuilt (make sure they actually do rebuilds, and not just grease repacks). If no play, then keep them there. New wheel bearings are never a bad idea, but I wouldn't do them if I could avoid it.

[Cloudbase]

Any shops that do rebuilds you recommend? I'm assuming I'd have to provide new boots. I round two axles w/ 6m warrenties on car-parts.com with good boots. The wheel bearings make me want to hide behind the couch! Any excuse not to do them would be great. But in trouble shooting my soft brake pedal I thought it would be good variable to eliminate. I'd like to get the MG running too though and not spending money on WB's could fund that.

[Roland H]

If the wheel bearings aren't broke, don't fix em. I used to have a good shop that I went to, but they closed up. So I'm looking for a new one. Let me know if you find one that does good work.

[Cloudbase]

Boulder Drive Line did my driveshaft. I wonder if he does axles. I'll try him tomorrow.

[iamsam]

Alex, if you want to go on the cheap, score some axles from the junkyard, sometimes you can find some in pretty dang good shape, and you will prob spend $20 per axle. That is what I did, I got mine from an early M20 vert, and they are serving me great! boots are in near perfect shape!

[Cloudbase]

The ones I found from car-parts.com are $35 a side with good boots and a 90 day warrenty (not 6 months like I thought). I'might interested to see what Boulder Drive Line would charge. That will probably sway my decision.

[blefevre]

Let us know if you get a quote from boulder drive line.

[iamsam]

The ones I found from car-parts.com are $35 a side with good boots and a 90 day warrenty (not 6 months like I thought). I'might interested to see what Boulder Drive Line would charge. That will probably sway my decision.

car-parts.com. Is that new parts or used parts? Also, BE WARY of aftermarket axles that are cheap, i know from FIRSTHAND EXPERIENCE. There is a reason they are $300 a piece from BMW, the aftermarket ones are CRAP. I bought brand new ones for $60 a piece from NAPA, took them to HPR for one day, and they were DONE. absolute junk. The tolerances in the joints were atrocious, the build quality was Taiwanese, and they literally fell apart in my hands, ball bearing rolling everywhere, when I unbolted them from the car. That's why I got smart and went to the junkyard to get BMW axles.

jus sayin....

Also, rebuild prices will me much more than $90 a side, as the boot kits are about that per side. The boot kits are around $40 iirc, and you need 4 of them. After all, that is all you need for an axle rebuild, unless they replace the bearing race (ball retainer?) too. Honestly I am not sure what all gets replaced in a CV axle "rebuild". The grease and boots obviously, maybe the bearing races, probably not the ball bearings themselves, and probably not the inner and outer bearing-housing-tooth-race thingies.

[Cloudbase]

They are used OEM off an 88is in NV so hopefully no rust.